What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)


It's a low range gearbox to go between the transmission and the transfer case. It can be used for 2wd low range or double low range.

Damnit, Ninja-d
 
That sounds spiffy, might have to look into it!

Worked on the rear bumper on the '90 more, I wasn't expecting to see torn steel on the mounts! I mean it's like 3/16" wall 3.5" square tube with 1/2" plate mounts to the frame, the 3/16" wall tube tore at the bottom! When I got the thing it came with this bumper, originally it was just mounted with the bolts on the side of the frame, they're like 9/16" bolts for whatever reason but at about 1.5" spacing so it pivoted like a mofo... at some point I added a rear support to grab the bottom of the frame at the back but that's still a short lever arm so it still pivoted... Now I added another chunk to grab the bolt a few inches forward of that which should fix it, and while there with a welder I added a couple passes on the long spans to increase the metal and surface area...
 
That sounds spiffy, might have to look into it!

I hope it'll be the help I need. When I wheel the truck hard, there are several occasions where I've needed more gear than I had. This will give me that option. In other words, 107:1 ish crawl ratio in 1st, low, low or roughly 8 rpm at the wheel while idling in gear.
 
Yeah, my '90 doesn't have jack for low end so it needs all the gear it can get but it doesn't do rocks much anyway, might think about squeezing a doubler in the Explorer build but that would complicate things since the T case is 1/2" from the gas tank front mount as it is...

Not sure why I didn't think about it last night when I saw the torn metal but I'm just going to add gussets in the bottom side of the mount brackets to spread the load...
 
For about 90% of the time, I'm fine without the extra gear, if I wasn't planning on going places and doing things with it I'd likely live with it. Being in the northeast makes it hard to wheel locally so it's a drive to do that. Smoking a clutch a couple hours from home is something I'd like to avoid.

Today I filled in the cargo light hole on the back of my replacement cab, I had forgotten about the hole being there until I started prepping the roof for paint the other day, haha.
What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)
 
Update: it turns out the cam synchronizer did the trick. The Road Ranger is roadworthy again!

When I finally got the sync in the other day, I was out of time that afternoon, so all I could do was rev it. It had the same warble that it had before I ever touched it. @Peter_'86_2.9L_Auto was over here today to help out, and we did a couple things to his truck. He must’ve brought me luck! After he left, I did a test drive in the Road Ranger, and it purred like a kitten under acceleration and under load. I’m sorry for the thoughts of gooey lizards and slimy frogs on all you guys because you put your lives, your wives, your families, your jobs, etc. in front of fixing my truck that you’ve never seen from a thousand miles away. You are all out of the doghouse.

On the other front, I took the new brake light switch on and off and apart and back together another 20 times on the Missing Linc.

IMG_6672.jpeg


Two brand new switches, and a new bushing kit, and it was still doing the same thing it was doing before: you could push it lightly, and the brake lights would come on, push it further, and then pull back on it, no lights, and then step on it again and brake HARD, no lights. No lights when you were braking hard. Not good.

Stupid design. The really stiff spring actually holds the switch open as you step on brakes. Eventually, if you step hard enough, it compresses the spring and makes contact. To fix it, I finally replaced the spring (which was NOT designed to be replaced) with a thinner/softer wire spring with a much lower spring rate. I had to do a trial and error about seven or eight times, taking a little bit off the spring each time, but I finally nailed it. I can now take that switch in and out with my eyes closed.

In retrospect, I’m thinking the linkage between the foot pedal and the vacuum booster/master cylinder may need adjustment to remove any slack in the motion in the connection. In any case, the lighter spring ended up doing the trick.


IMG_5093.jpeg


That’s how I feel, times 10!!! I’ve been fighting them both for months
 
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Haven't done any work to the little monster today, but I did manage to order a full a/c system (minus the evap core in the firewall) so that this next weekend when I'm off I can finally, after 2 years of 2/60 cooling can have real cold air. I just need to get my Freon and I'm all set. 2 years ago right after I did the head gasket job, the compressor seized up on me. Rather than doing the whole flush, I'm just replacing the system and flushing the evap core. It's been running a short belt set up and I haven't opened any of the lines since the issue happened. I've also unplugged the compressor and pressure switches to eliminate possible accidental turn on. I think I also removed the relay. I'm so ready, now that I have a new sealed windshield, and solid weather seals in the truck, it's time to ride in comfort again.
 
Today I made gussets for the rear bumper brackets and painted the bumper then after other things installed it, Now it's mounted with 4 9/16" bolts and 4 1/2" bolts instead of two 3/8" bolts where 2 of the 1/2" bolts are, it should finally stay where it's level now!

While I was working on it I even pulled the tailgate and figured out why it was a pain to open, turns out after 36 years of age the handle assembly had gotten tweaked, after some fine tuning with some pliers and the shop press it opens like a dream!
 
And I went and had had my factory spare replaced with a brand new full sized $80 P235/75R15 all terrain this afternoon. It's identical to my other four tires, but I got the others on sale for $72 last May. I didn't replace it then because I was hoping to find a cheap used tire for it. I haven't tried hanging it in the carrier yet but I don't think a full sized tire will fit under there. I had to put tires on it before I got it running, and since I bought it for scrap value and it hadn't ran in 16 years I was cheaping out last summer in case it turned into a nightmare and I had to scrap it to try to break even. Now that I know it seems to be a good truck I wish I had splurged for the $132 LT31x10.5R15 version. My factory size was 265/75R15.

My roommate decided to see if he could get my A/C working this evening. I figured it would need new seals at a minimum after sitting for 16 years, so I wasn't going to bother messing with it until I have the time and money to do it right. But since he had the vacuum pump and gauges borrowed to redo his system I went ahead and let him try mine. He vacuumed the system down and it held a slight vacuum steady for 30 minutes, so he added some UV dye and then a can of R134A. It didn't fix my air conditioning, but under a black light my passenger side front end now looks like a unicorn had a rather forceful accident on it. At a minimum both valves didn't seal when he removed the hoses. And either 12 ounces wasn't enough to trip the low pressure switch or it also has other issues besides being low on refrigerant.

I also took out my ash tray and spent half an hour cleaning out all of the old ashes and tar from both the tray and the cigarette lighter plug. Now things that I plug into it actually make a connection without having to wiggle them around just right.

And then I crawled under and clocked my filler neck so that I could get the screws that hold it to the bedside into it. It's only been upside down and flopping around inside of its hole in the bed for 1100 miles, since I replaced it last August... While I was under there I stuck a stainless steel zip tie in the hole where the nut plate thing twisted up on my gas tank skid plate when I had the bright idea of dropping the tank out from the bottom to replace the fuel pump. I though that that would be easier since I didn't have an impact or any help to lift off my camper shell or the bed. Having done both now, I can confidently say that removing the bed is in fact both faster and easier even if you are working alone. The tank came out with just a jack and some wiggling but I had to remove the rear axle to get it to go back in.
 

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