what carb do i have on my 2.0?

[John Smith]

if you don't mind some input..

i agree... just hope this fixes it... think i should go ahead and fix the gasket and then do the intake spacer later or wait the potential couple months and do it all at once? the guy sending me the spacer is having problems with production and it may take a while to get my spacer... then again, i might find it by the end of May

if you are saying you found a manifold gasket leak but aren't sure you should fix it now?...

a vacuum leak at the manifold gasket must be fixed...no waiting needed or desired..IMHO, besides..the two repair jobs involve separate bolts and nuts anyway...and you should notice an immediate change in drivability after the manifold gasket repair.

 

[19bonestock88]

the issue is that:
1. i can't really work on it during the week, as i am in college and i'm sure they wouldn't take too kindly to me having the intake manifold off the truck in their parking lot
2. i'd rather not have to take the intake off twice and spend more money(to get the gasket and then pay shipping on the kit which includes one) when i can wait and get the spacer kit(gaskets, spacer, bolts) that's coming and do it once...(i don't wanna have to deal with all those vac lines twice in a couple week period)

will me waiting to do the repair cause the engine further damage? i know i can avoid the backfire by a slight change in driving habit, and i have been running premium fuel all the while, which resists the detonation typically caused by a lean mixture...

 

[John Smith]

I guess I just don't get..

the issue is that:
1. i can't really work on it during the week, as i am in college and i'm sure they wouldn't take too kindly to me having the intake manifold off the truck in their parking lot
2. i'd rather not have to take the intake off twice and spend more money(to get the gasket and then pay shipping on the kit which includes one) when i can wait and get the spacer kit(gaskets, spacer, bolts) that's coming and do it once...(i don't wanna have to deal with all those vac lines twice in a couple week period)

will me waiting to do the repair cause the engine further damage? i know i can avoid the backfire by a slight change in driving habit, and i have been running premium fuel all the while, which resists the detonation typically caused by a lean mixture...

the driving need for a phenolic spacer kit when you have a leaking manifold gasket..but we all have our priorities I suppose..
I uh, best not get involved...
best wishes ...

 

[19bonestock88]

is there really an imminent danger of engine damage running it like it is? if so i'll get it fixed, but if there isn't, it makes more sense to me to wait and only have to remove the intake once, rather than having to take it off twice...

 

[Kenneth S]

How hard is it to get to where it's leaking, if it's in a spot where you can get to it, clean the area really good with something like brake cleaner (or something that doesn't leave a residue behind), and put a few layers of silicone over it, and let it sit overnight. It should get you by in a pinch.

 

[19bonestock88]

it's pretty difficult to get to the leaky spot(even with a stream of carb cleaner), so i doubt i would be able to get at it with my finger smeared with silicone... good idea though...

really, is the leak gonna do immediate damage to the engine(since i've already driven it over 10,000 miles like that, i think)? if so, i will bite the bullet and fix it this weekend and do the spacer when it comes, but if i'm not in immediate danger of, say, burning a valve or breaking a piston, i would rather wait and do the spacer and the gasket at the same time and kill two birds with one stone

 

[Kenneth S]

I'd call the guy your getting the spacer from and see if it's shipped out yet (is the spacer for the stock carb?), if you can't get it by this weekend bite the bullet and fix it this weekend.

 

[19bonestock88]

the spacer is for the stock intake manifold (not for the carb) but i know it hasn't been shipped... if it were a production item already, i would have it now, but would have paid $80, but since i am helping the guy develop a prototype(and then a production model), i get mine for just the cost of shipping and some data... but it's still being drawn, so it likely won't be here by the weekend...

how hard is it to remove the intake manifold? i know about the bolts, but what has to be removed to get to them? is it hard to keep track of the 6.2 million vac lines in the engine bay? this is the main reason for me wanting to wait to do the repair...

EDIT: i'm not driving it every day is also part of the reason i feel almost comfortable with waiting to do the repair... i don't drive but maybe 10 miles(maybe) during the week... then drive home for weekends

 

[Kenneth S]

You might be ok with the minimal amout of driving your doing, but since you can get to it with some spray carb cleaner you my give this a try. (if you try it let us know if it works, I've never tried it). http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/adhesives_sealants/sealants/Permatex_Form-A-Seal_Leak_Repair.htm



Are you adapting a different carb on your truck? Or is it a spacer that goes in between the intake, and head?

 

[19bonestock88]

thanks so much for the link to the spray permatex, i didn't even know such a product existed... and the spacer is gonna be between the intake and head(just like the leak)... i'll let you know if i end up using it...

 

[Kenneth S]

I don't believe that you will get any noticeable difference in power, or data (unless you have the engine on a dyno rather than in a truck) by having the phenolic spacer between the intake, and the head, (I think it's more of a waste of time, and $$).

 

[19bonestock88]

the guy says that i might get 2-3 hp at the wheels and 3-5 lb/ft of torque... big difference?no. but every hp i can get, i'll take... plus the part is almost free to me, so i can't complain even if it does nothing... he said that the spacer will effectively give me a slightly longer intake runner, increasing intake velocity, and stop heat transfer to the intake manifold, slightly increasing the density of the air/fuel charge

 

[flaminranger]

not trying to stir anything but doesn't ford pump coolant to the manifold to warm it up?
also I don't know about anyone else's truck but mine gets better mileage when it is warmer.
I guess if the coolant goes to the manifold still it might work.
just wondering
Duane

 

[Kenneth S]

Ford does circulate coolant through the intake manifold on carburated 2.3's it helps to vaporize the gas so it can burn better in the cylinders, when the engine is cold the gas doesn't vaporize as good (gas wants to stay in liquid form when it's cold) which is why you get better mileage once it's warmed up. On fuel injection is the exact opposite since the computer controlls the fuel, and the injectors sprays it into a fine mist right at the intake valve when it's open.

 

[flaminranger]

so according to what you posted the chances for that to work are slim?