what carb do i have on my 2.0?

[19bonestock88]

I think I posted that link yesterday...thought it was a replacement carb for the original but it's an upgrade...I would go that route or one of many that are currently being discussed in other threads...

There are about three or four different options for carbs and intakes that work way better than the original 2.0 setup...but the one above is a complete swap kit that will get you a bit more bang and many less headaches...

Mine is a Motorcraft 5200 with the E1ZE intake...when I swapped that on I went from almost daily repairs to pretty much good driving for a year...then I decided to upgrade the motor to the 2.3 after I blew out the bottom end on the 2.0...

Still many used parts available too...but you may need to lay down some $$$$...

did your mileage change when you changed the carb? how about power?
should i spend money on that when i plan on building a 2.3 turbo for it anyway?

 

[19bonestock88]

the funny characteristic about the idle isn't that it's particularly rough on 93, but the slight popping every few seconds... sounds like a small "toof" every few seconds at idle...

 

[Mark_88]

did your mileage change when you changed the carb? how about power?
should i spend money on that when i plan on building a 2.3 turbo for it anyway?

The mileage increased more due to the fact that my float level was way too high and I had no idea how to adjust it...the HP increased also but that could have been due to several mods that I did at the time...including a mild racing cam...the shorty header helped drop some weight from the old style cast exhaust too...

the funny characteristic about the idle isn't that it's particularly rough on 93, but the slight popping every few seconds... sounds like a small "toof" every few seconds at idle...

Popping is detonation probably...you should sort out the carb problem before doing anything else...if it's a vacuum leak that could fix some problems...but you may want to try a 91 grade to see if the popping goes away...my truck runs fantastic on 91...I've only ever put 93 in it when the others are sold out...but I usually mix it with some 89 about half and half...which should, hypothetically, give me a 93 if it mixes properly...but I have no idea...

 

[19bonestock88]

i checked around the carb the best i could, but couldn't find any leak on the two sides i could reach, so i might just have to play part dart again... *sigh* where does a man find a carb mounting gasket?

 

[Mark_88]

I would just buy a roll of gasket material and make one. I've tried ordering gaskets for my carb but the guy hummed and hawed so I told him I would come back.

Maybe try a local dealership or NAPA...if not try any auto parts store...

EDIT: To check for leaks on a carb you should try spraying around the area with something (someone mentioned brake cleaner but I'd stay away from anything flamable) and listen for the engine to speed up. This means the leak is sucking in the fluid...it's hard to tell a where they leak...you need something to direct you in the general area...I tried removing the fan belt and using a cigarette to see if it would suck the smoke...my engine is a non-smoker so it didn't bite at the time...

 

[19bonestock88]

a good idea about the gasket material...i checked using carb cleaner but couldn't reach all the way around it and i couldn't even get close to the intake manifold... too much stuff in the way... maybe an unlit propane torch would work because the gas could disperse where i couldn't get my hand...

 

[upnsmoke]

Cheapest thing to do is get some gasket material and make one. I like this rubber fiber stuff link. I had a dying ignition module that caused an occasional miss. It sounded like what you are describing at idle. A vacuum gauge could indicate whether a significant vacuum leak is present or not, if you have one available.
Mark, I have heard motors pinging at idle, and would not rule out the possibility in this case, but to me it usually sounds like a light tick sort of sound more so than a miss, and those motors typically have some serious issues that are present at conditions other than idle as well.

 

[19bonestock88]

a great idea about the ignition module, but i just replaced mine... actually i replaced module, coil(with an accel super stack) dizzy cap, rotor button, plugs and wires about 3k miles ago... thanks for the link on the gasket material... definitely will be getting some...

do you think it will hurt any to wait to do this repair? i'm not talking about a long time, just until after may 5th... college lets out then and i can sit down with the person who helps me do this stuff and do it right and not eff it up... not to mention my manifold spacer might be ready by then and i can do that as well...

 

[upnsmoke]

Bonestock, I have had good luck with a propane torch in the past. The change in engine speed is very slight when you do locate a leak, so patience is key, but it does work. I recommend doing it outdoors, as opposed to inside a garage, for obvious reasons. Edit- If you did all the ignition stuff, I assume you verified that the timing is correct. If not, I would put a timing light on it just to eliminate a variable. If it has a vacuum leak, and is running lean, you could probably get away with driving it for a while without doing any damage, especially if you run it easy. If it idles near normal speed, I would bet that it isn't very far off.

 

[19bonestock88]

when you remove the vac advance from the dizzy, it idles at the factory specified 800 RPM and it was just timed about 9 months ago... i think the timing is dead on give or take a degree... and all my work is done outside(no garage) so no worries there... oddly enough, i suspect that it has been this way ever since i had it... after my first plug change the person helping noted that it looked like i was running lean, but we just thought it was the smog pump and cut that belt off... it used to backfire(deafeningly loud) EVERY TIME i let off the throttle, then i cut the pump and now it only does it if i shut the engine off within a couple minutes of either running hard or driving on the interstate(either way, a low vacuum situation), so i have been driving it like this for the last 35,000 miles...

 

[19bonestock88]

problem diagnosis!

i found the vac leak! it ended up being the intake manifold gasket instead of the carb gasket... i'm gonna run it as-is for now, and repair it when i get my shiny new phenolic intake spacer... it's nice knowing what the problem is

 

[Mark_88]

Cool...glad you found it...once that is corrected you will be able to see what it fixes and what needs to be done...but that will probably clear up quite a few problems...and give you a few HP as a bonus...they run much better when the air/fuel mix is right...

 

[19bonestock88]

i hope it fixes my gas mileage as well... averaging about 20 mpg with sane driving(55 on any two lane road except in town, and about 75-80 interstate), shifting at 2000-2200 RPM except when merging onto interstate(then anywhere from 4000-5000 RPM) isn't too great considering i got about 24 when i got the truck with its neglected ignition and cooling system...

 

[Mark_88]

Hard to say what it will fix but it should eliminate the backfire on deceleration...only time will tell...but it might need a few tweaks once the leak is corrected...or it may be fine...could be other things too as happens to me...never just one thing...fix one and find another...but that's part of the fun!

 

[19bonestock88]

i agree... just hope this fixes it... think i should go ahead and fix the gasket and then do the intake spacer later or wait the potential couple months and do it all at once? the guy sending me the spacer is having problems with production and it may take a while to get my spacer... then again, i might find it by the end of May