urgent only running vehicle

[83RangerBill]

OK so if the fuel pressure regulator has a hole in the diaphragm and is sucking fuel into the engine causing it to flood out and fowl ou?t the plugs(which they were still smelled of gas) would that also cause the fuel pump to work harder to maintain pressure so it would run more causing a current drop causing the engine to crank over slowly? Is my logic correct?

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[kimcrwbr1]

One thing at a time replace the fuel pressure regulator and then go from there.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Fully charge the battery before truobleshooting any further.

 

[83RangerBill]

I had just taken the battery off of the charger,

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[kimcrwbr1]

Allways fix the obvious first. I fix HVAC equiptment and this year has been crazy with multiple issues. We established the regulator is faulty do not speculate on other issues fix the obvious and go from there. Fully charge the battery and measure the voltage and leave it disconnected for 24 hrs if it looses power the battery needs replaced.

 

[RonD]

OK so if the fuel pressure regulator has a hole in the diaphragm and is sucking fuel into the engine causing it to flood out and fowl ou?t the plugs(which they were still smelled of gas) would that also cause the fuel pump to work harder to maintain pressure so it would run more causing a current drop causing the engine to crank over slowly? Is my logic correct?

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No, not correct logic
The fuel system has no pressure sensor...............

So fuel pump doesn't work "harder" if there is a leak in the system.

Fuel pump turns on and off based on computer software, that software uses MAF(MAP), TPS, RPM, and VSS(if so equipped) data to determine fuel consumption and when fuel pump should be on.
So unless engine starts the fuel pump only comes on for 2 seconds, and will not come on again unless you turn the key off and then on again, you could crank the engine for 5 minutes and fuel pump will not come on again.


And smell of fuel in the Power Brake vacuum line doesn't mean FPR is bad, could be a stuck injector, or just general '"flooding" because engine isn't starting, when cranking the engine injectors are spraying fuel into the intake.
So smell of fuel in the intake can be normal if there is no spark or not enough spark.
Fuel in the FPR vacuum line would mean a bad FPR.


If you spray Ether(starting fluid) into the intake and engine doesn't fire then you have no spark..............
Even if spark timing was off Ether would still cause a backfire, even if valves were out of time Ether would still ignite.
So no fire with Ether is a spark issue
That would be the place to start

 

[Hagan]

If you spray Ether(starting fluid) into the intake and engine doesn't fire then you have no spark..............
Even if spark timing was off Ether would still cause a backfire, even if valves were out of time Ether would still ignite.
So no fire with Ether is a spark issue
That would be the place to start

X2

How are you verifying you have spark?

Also, has the Explorer been running rough before it woudnt start? Or is this a first time occurrence?

Does the check engine light illuminate when the key is on. Like I said, it couldn't hurt to pull the codes.

 

[83RangerBill]

A little rough and no codes

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[RonD]

Google: How to Check an Ignition Coil Pack the easy way

Good video for testing Ford coil packs

 

[Chris_1]

You have enough spark to jump from the screwdriver to the fender, but do you have enough to jump the spark plug gap (which is even harder to jump under compression). Way to check this - take your spark plug out, plug it back into the wire then get one of your booster cables and clamp it onto the steel body of the spark plug and the other end to ground at the battery. Support it properly away from the motor (let's not start a fire) then crank the motor and watch. Do you have a spark ? How good of a spark ? Is it a weak little red spark, or a healthy blue arc ?
If you haven't got a light show happening there, it's a weak spark which could go back to the coil, the spark plug wire or I'm not sure if your vehicle would still have the EDIS module (electronic distributorless ignition system) or not - maybe someone else reading this knows, but after that I think you're back to the PCM, which don't go bad that often but do need a real good ground.
The other thing is fuel pressure - you have some at the schrader valve but is it enough ? These motors will not start or run worth a damn without sufficient fuel pressure. 10 pounds will squirt fuel out the schrader valve, but it won't run the truck. The gauge I bought was $60 - it was worth every penny 'cause it saved me from spending money foolishly on things that wouldn't fix the problem. Good Luck ! (you must be getting frustrated by now) (hang in there - it's probably something really simple)

 

[Hagan]

A little rough and no codes

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Does the spark look weak?

 

[83RangerBill]

Beautiful blue spark

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[RonD]

Then it would fire up with starting fluid, even flooded ether will fire with spark
You said it did once then not after that, so check spark spark spark

 

[83RangerBill]

K will do

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[Chris_1]

Fuel, spark & timing. Timing - maybe, but last resort, as a timing chain is a major pain. Sounds like you've got spark. I'm going back to fuel. Either bad gas or low fuel pressure. We had a similar issue with a ranger, it had a new fuel pump in it so that was the last thing we checked, but sure enough it was only putting out 20 lbs - pretty much the same symptoms as yours. Anywhere you can borrow a fuel pressure gauge ?