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urgent only running vehicle


Before you do anything else. Is the check engine light on? Have yoy checked codes?
 
The check engine light is not on I only got it to fire with ether once and she was really rough what are your thoughts on the fuel pump there is a huge difference in the cranking speeds with it disabled

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Fuel pump should only come on for 2 seconds, then shut off, so turn on the key but don't crank engine, listen for fuel pump it should come on then shut off.
If it is not shutting off then Fuel Pump Relay could be bad, which is common on older Rangers

What are you "pulling out" to disable fuel pump?
 
When I turn the key the fuel pump runs for 2 to 3 seconds then stops to disable the fuel pump I pulled the fuse. I'm working on a 96 explorer 5.0

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I have not put a gauge on it but when I press the Schrader valve fuel squirts out and I can smell raw fuel coming out of the exhaust

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Is there fuel in the vacuum line to the pressure regulator and or do you smell fuel in the brake booster hose? Could be a faulty regulator flooding the engine?
 
I'll have to check that. When I first turn the key the pump runs for 2 to 3 seconds then shuts off would that indicate that the regulator was good

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When I first turn the key the pump runs for 2 to 3 seconds then shuts off would that indicate that the regulator was good

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No. It also doesn't mean the fuel pump is good. The pump can run and make noise but not be able to produce pressure.
 
So pretty much need to run a fuel pressure test to determine if the pump and regulator is good

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The computer has no fuel pressure sensor.
Nor do most fuel injected engines.
Standard computer programing will turn on the fuel pump for a few seconds when key is turned on, then shut it off until engine RPM is above 700, so off until engine starts.

Fuel Pressure Regulator(FPR) is a valve with a spring to hold it closed, it is connected to the fuel rail and the fuel return line that goes to the gas tank.
It also has a vacuum line connected to the intake manifold, when engine is idling(highest vacuum, lowest fuel use), the vacuum pulls the FPR valve open so un-needed fuel goes back to the gas tank.
There is a diaphragm in the FPR that holds the vacuum, if it had a leak then raw fuel would be sucked into the vacuum line and then the engine.
Check the vacuum line on the FPR for fuel.

You can drain the fuel pressure via the schrader valve, then turn key on, count to 5, turn key off, repeat 3 times, then test schrader valve for pressure, if you have pressure again then pump is working, and FPR is not stuck open, but FPR could still be leaking.
 
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The pump primes the system when you tun on the key and then continues running after the engine starts if the engine stops the fuel pump shuts off like in a roll over it wont just sit there and empty the tank.
 
Fuel out the exhaust can either be faulty injectors or regulator. Turn the key on and see it gets fuel pressure and then turn the key off and see if the pressure drops rapidly. If so there is a leak somewhere. Past the injector/s or the regulator or a check valve in the fuel pump. If you smell fuel in the brake booster the regulator diaphram is almost allways the cause.
 
Out of the vehicle, not too bad - still in the truck a little major, everything has to come off the front of the motor pretty much (and something will break). Plan to be at it all weekend if you don't have a shop and all the air tools. You really want to make sure that's the cause first. Good way to check timing chain slop is a breaker bar & socket on the crank bolt, rock it back and forth to where it tightens against the camshaft (cause it's harder to turn when the chain tightens against the camshaft gear) more than about 10 degrees back and forth is getting pretty sloppy with the chain setup you should have. If you've got fuel pressure (the right amount is important use a f/p gauge) and you've got spark and your chain's not falling off the gears, I'd double check (as was mentioned) the firing order, and then I might start to suspect the gas, especially this time of year - 1/2 a quart of methyl hydrate in the tank and a top up w/ fresh gas might help. Wouldn't hurt to go over the vacuum lines too, as unlikely as that is, a vacuum leak can do all kinds of weird things. That's all I can think of unless it's in the electronics - have you got good grounds and tight connections everywhere ?
 
Well I think I have the cause can smell fuel in the brake booster

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