Twister 85 B2 Build

[85_Ranger4x4]

Easiest way is to turn the oil pump shaft with a drill. Keeps the rest of the stuff from getting dry started.

It should still have some oil in the bearings, I cranked mine with the dizzy unplugged until I had oil pressure before I tried to fire it and I haven't notice any large parts flying out of it yet.

Me too. Good thing is, they are in the front of the engine. I put mine in a tooth off and couldn't get it timed quite right. Took about fifteen minutes to fix that problem.

Mine is a tooth or two off with the plug wires rotated one post around from where they should be. The Explorer FEAD wasn't intended to be ran with a vacuum advance dizzy.

Should i run a fuel pressure regulator? If so would this one be sufficient?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3032b/overview/

I have no regulator and it doesn't seem to care.

Don't think i am getting spark and i can't figure out why . I haven't changed any of the wiring from when i was running my 2.8.

Initially mine plugged into where my 2.8 unplugged from and ran great. I had the dizzy out for my cam/head swap a year later and the connector crapped out on me. I had power where the pigtail plugged in but I couldn't get anything to the dizzy connector.

This wouldn't be why you couldn't get the 2.8 to run is it?

 

[Twister]

It should still have some oil in the bearings, I cranked mine with the dizzy unplugged until I had oil pressure before I tried to fire it and I haven't notice any large parts flying out of it yet.



Mine is a tooth or two off with the plug wires rotated one post around from where they should be. The Explorer FEAD wasn't intended to be ran with a vacuum advance dizzy.



I have no regulator and it doesn't seem to care.



Initially mine plugged into where my 2.8 unplugged from and ran great. I had the dizzy out for my cam/head swap a year later and the connector crapped out on me. I had power where the pigtail plugged in but I couldn't get anything to the dizzy connector.

This wouldn't be why you couldn't get the 2.8 to run is it?

God I hope not, will check the wire harness when I get home.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk

 

[Twister]

Got a new battery, checked continuity between all the wires on my duraspark harness and it seems to check out ok. I put the engine to TDC to find where the rotor pointed and put the number one plug where it pointed to on the cap. Put the plugs back on, cranked it and I still got not nothing. I replaced the timing chain and gears, is there some way I could have f'ed it up messing with that. From what I remeber both gears were keyed so i don't think I could put it on wrong.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk

 

[dangerranger83]

If using a mustang timing chain, there were three spots that had keyways on either the cam or crank sprocket (can't remember which) that allowed for 15 degrees advance, factory or retarded timing. I do know the factory was indicated by circle dimples.

Do you have the spark plugs in HO timing or non HO timing, that is assuming that your engine I does have an HO cam in it putting it in HO firing order. The rotor spins counter clock wise.

If all if that is goods, take a plug out and have somebody check out for spark. If good, poor a little fuel down the carb and try that. Also have a timing light hooked up and ready along with a wrench to be able to adjust the dizzy.

Your almost there, get it running!!!!

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Twister]

If using a mustang timing chain, there were three spots that had keyways on either the cam or crank sprocket (can't remember which) that allowed for 15 degrees advance, factory or retarded timing. I do know the factory was indicated by circle dimples.

Do you have the spark plugs in HO timing or non HO timing, that is assuming that your engine I does have an HO cam in it putting it in HO firing order. The rotor spins counter clock wise.

If all if that is goods, take a plug out and have somebody check out for spark. If good, poor a little fuel down the carb and try that. Also have a timing light hooked up and ready along with a wrench to be able to adjust the dizzy.

Your almost there, get it running!!!!

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

I used a standard timing set, the one I pulled off was a generic one. The new one didn't have any marks other than the dot to line them up. I have been using the standard firing order sequence but I guess it wouldn't hurt to the H.O. one.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk

 

[dangerranger83]

What vehicle did the engine originally come out of from the factory? If it came out if a mustang (85 and up) then it's HO. Make sure that cylinder number one is TDC on the compression stroke, then check your dizzy rotor and match it up to the tower on the cap and that should get you close to having it timed to start it and get it running enough to get it timed better. If, not, small rotations if the dizzy will get you to that point.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Twister]

What vehicle did the engine originally come out of from the factory? If it came out if a mustang (85 and up) then it's HO. Make sure that cylinder number one is TDC on the compression stroke, then check your dizzy rotor and match it up to the tower on the cap and that should get you close to having it timed to start it and get it running enough to get it timed better. If, not, small rotations if the dizzy will get you to that point.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

Not entirely sure what it came out of. My buddies mustang was an 83, but I was told it was not thw original engine. The code on the block decodes to 1980 generic engine. I will set it to the H.O. order tomorrow for shits n giggles and see if it works

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk

 

[dangerranger83]

I studied the pictures in the first post of the spark plugs and where they go, at least the driver side, and it's indicating to me that it has an HO firing order.

Also was that giant black thing an AC pump? Kind looks like a York (that's what I wanna say) and would probably be good for OBA....or if you intend on keeping A.C.that works too.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Twister]

I studied the pictures in the first post of the spark plugs and where they go, at least the driver side, and it's indicating to me that it has an HO firing order.

Also was that giant black thing an AC pump? Kind looks like a York (that's what I wanna say) and would probably be good for OBA....or if you intend on keeping A.C.that works too.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

Pretty sure it was an a/c pump, don't think it would bolt on easily with the explorer FEAD, and I have no plan on putting in OBA. Just got done messing with the truck, It did some small backfires, so I'm getting somewhere.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk

 

[dangerranger83]

Sounds like it's firing late so advance your timing a bit and try again.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Twister]

Sigh, I've gotten no where with this. Dizzy is getting pulled and put back in tomorrow. I really hope I didn't mess it up changing the timing hears and chain, if you can even mess then up.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk

 

[dangerranger83]

Did you take the old one off and replace it with the new one without rotating the crankshaft or camshaft? If not, then you should be good. A tooth off can effect allot too. My 2.8 was a tooth off but we both know how much of a pain in the a$$ those are to pull out and put in a-Si I just rotated all the wires a tower and was good. As for my 5.0, that trick didn't work so well due to my coolant line comes straight up out of my intake, instead of 90 degrees and blocking my dizzys ability to rotate to where I needed it.

Best advice, start from scratch, get the money one cylinder on the TDC compression stroke and go from there.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Twister]

Did you take the old one off and replace it with the new one without rotating the crankshaft or camshaft? If not, then you should be good. A tooth off can effect allot too. My 2.8 was a tooth off but we both know how much of a pain in the a$$ those are to pull out and put in a-Si I just rotated all the wires a tower and was good. As for my 5.0, that trick didn't work so well due to my coolant line comes straight up out of my intake, instead of 90 degrees and blocking my dizzys ability to rotate to where I needed it.

Best advice, start from scratch, get the money one cylinder on the TDC compression stroke and go from there.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

I am about 95% sure nothing was rotated when put the new chain and gears on.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk

 

[dangerranger83]

It would have to be as much as a full turn to effect things. I would also assume that if your camshaft and/or crankshaft were out of timing from each other that you would probably have piston valve slap, but not sure if these engines are interference engines or not.

Big question is, she getting fuel?

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Twister]

It would have to be as much as a full turn to effect things. I would also assume that if your camshaft and/or crankshaft were out of timing from each other that you would probably have piston valve slap, but not sure if these engines are interference engines or not.

Big question is, she getting fuel?

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

Yes, getting fuel, has compression. I am going to check for spark again tomorrow to rule that out as well.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk