Twister 85 B2 Build

[dangerranger83]

Actually the long bolts and washers were probably used as spacers and will be helpful to clear the oil drain plug from the ttb bracket on the crossmember.

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[Twister]

Actually the long bolts and washers were probably used as spacers and will be helpful to clear the oil drain plug from the ttb bracket on the crossmember.

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I suppose so, just the amount of odd ball bolts on the engine and the mustang was unreal. There were countless number of weird washers in places and so on. Think the guy who had it before my friend was on crack or something

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Actually the long bolts and washers were probably used as spacers and will be helpful to clear the oil drain plug from the ttb bracket on the crossmember.

I have about half an inch of washers under between the block and each mount and a 3/4" block of steel under one mount, the next time the engine goes in I am going to try a low front sump. The rear sump fits my truck HORRIBLE.

I had to hacksaw off my first drain plug and find one that is about half an inch long to change my oil, and it dumps it all over the pivot bracket.

One of those things that varies from swap to swap.

 

[dangerranger83]

I cant get my rear drain plug out, I will have to take my front drian plug out and syphon the oil out the best I can (with the oil hot as I can get it) or have another oil filter line come off and drain the block in 10 seconds.

Or somehow get the time to go to my parents and cut the TTB bracket off that I was to lazy to take off.

 

[Twister]

Need your guys opinion, I put on the motor mounts with the bolts I scavenged from my friends mustang. There are two different style bolts, 2 OE looking ones and 2 hardware store looking bolts. The OE bolts have about 1in to 1 1/16 worth of washer, and the hardware ones had about 3/4 in of washers. Should I just use these bolts and get more washers to take up the slack, or get slightly shorter bolts and use less washers?

Here is a pic of the motor mounts put on the engine with the OE bolts.

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[85_Ranger4x4]

Bolts are cheap, just get the right length bolts.

 

[dangerranger83]

My OE bolts fit prefectly. It's one of those test fit a free times in the vehicle to find out what is needed spacer wise.

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[Twister]

Well for fun i stabbed the engine in my truck, i didnt have anyone to help me with the tranny.

Here are some pics. The Oil relocation bung seems like it will be ok, but i wont know till i fully seat it down. The passenger side mount seems a bit high on the cross member than the driver, also the exhaust manifold on the passenger side seems like a very tight fit.

I am really looking into grabbing a body lift to make things much much simpler.

Passenger side mount:

Driver side mount:

Oil Filter Thing sandwich:

 

[dangerranger83]

The manifold on the passenger side will be a bit of a tight fit but has enough clearance. If one side sits lower or higher, then that's where the longer books and washers come in place to even stuff out.

I recommend having the FEAD on to help with knowing the final location of the engine for space clearance on the front to the rad.

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[Twister]

Are you guys folding over the body seam right at he start of the tans tunnel?

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[85_Ranger4x4]

Are you guys folding over the body seam right at he start of the tans tunnel?

With a bodylift and the huge C5 bellhousing I didn't touch mine for the actual swap. I did have to "modify" the seam a tad to get one bellhousing bolt in when I reinstalled the tranny later. I blame that on the huge bell that is full of gussets though.

With the bodylift if it wasn't for that one bolt I would say it was almost easier to drop the trans out than it was the A4LD on the truck at stock height.

As far as FEAD clearance, I pushed mine back about half an inch away from the firewall and let the chips fall where they may up front. It wasn't feasable to move it back any more than that so there wasn't really much I could do about it anyway.

Here is a pic from the tech library with the manifold, it should drop down a lot more than you think it will:

 

[Twister]

With a bodylift and the huge C5 bellhousing I didn't touch mine for the actual swap. I did have to "modify" the seam a tad to get one bellhousing bolt in when I reinstalled the tranny later. I blame that on the huge bell that is full of gussets though.

With the bodylift if it wasn't for that one bolt I would say it was almost easier to drop the trans out than it was the A4LD on the truck at stock height.

As far as FEAD clearance, I pushed mine back about half an inch away from the firewall and let the chips fall where they may up front. It wasn't feasable to move it back any more than that so there wasn't really much I could do about it anyway.

OK, I maybe be picking up a 3in bodylift for cheap, just waiting in the guy to respond. Also might have a line on an np208. Ill be making a trip to u pull it tomorrow or Friday to look for a clutch line, if the guy with the np208 doesn't come through, o am going to look for the parts to convert my current tcase to one that uses a speedo gear, I posted a link to a thread that shows how, just not 100% sure that type of speedo gear will work with the one in my truck.

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[dangerranger83]

The biggest thing I'm interested in is the ranger clutch hooking to the M5OD-2. Did you get that figured out?

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[Twister]

The biggest thing I'm interested in is the ranger clutch hooking to the M5OD-2. Did you get that figured out?

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Kind of not really. No one ever talks about the clutch line when the do a swap. There is a guy doing a swap now in like a 98 with a 3l using the same trans as me and he just used the existing line.

Sent from, wait how did this get here?

 

[dangerranger83]

Time to look everything up and start seeing what can hook up.

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