2.3L ('83-'97) Time for a new clutch 96 2.3

[justinae]

this is a PTFE seal so I think dry is correct. the plastic install guide is a clue that they don't want you to lube it. Victor Reinz doesn't offer much in terms of instruction but their vids on front oil seals are clear about not using lube.

 

[SenorNoob]

Weird, but ok. IDK if applies here, but I've heard of putting RTV on the outer surface of a crank seal before...

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

this is a PTFE seal so I think dry is correct. the plastic install guide is a clue that they don't want you to lube it. Victor Reinz doesn't offer much in terms of instruction but their vids on front oil seals are clear about not using lube.

Let us know how it goes. I would really like to be wrong...

 

[justinae]

I did a deep dive and found enough information that makes it really clear that PTFE seals go in dry. Here's a short explainer vid. For the record I read official manufacture docs, not some randome YT guy but this does explain it.

 

[justinae]

Ok guys. I've got the new seal seated square and just need to pound it in. It "appears" that it's too wide. When i get a tiny bit in with fingers and try to get the opposite side in just a smidge it won't go. I know I can't do the whole thing with fingers but I'd like to at least get the metal lip in with fingers first.

any ideas?

 

[RobWigglezz]

Ok guys. I've got the new seal seated square and just need to pound it in. It "appears" that it's too wide. When i get a tiny bit in with fingers and try to get the opposite side in just a smidge it won't go. I know I can't do the whole thing with fingers but I'd like to at least get the metal lip in with fingers first.

any ideas?

You're not going to start it with just your fingers. Don't be worried if it's a tiny bit uneven when starts to go in. You can correct it as you tap it in by focusing the tool, punch, extension on the higher side until it's squared up.

Install tools that contact the entire outside of the seal take a good amount of force to start it all at once, completely even. I normally start with just a small hammer and tap around to start, then once I have a free hand I'll use a big flat punch or extension and just walk it around a tiny bit at a time until it's in. You can do this with the install tool also by just rocking it around to focus more on a smaller area.

 

[scotts90ranger]

I think you're overthinking it... I usually just use a big flat punch or whatever is handy and walk it in square as I can... sometimes they're tight and I'll get crazy and take a hole saw to a 2x4 or something and pound on that to drive them in or whatever else is handy...

On the flywheel, in a pinch it would probably be usable if deglazed but I would see how much of a step there is, if it's over like 0.005" I wouldn't use it without facing it or the new clutch will fail prematurely... Pressure plate I wouldn't even think of reusing, they're a wear part... I plan to reuse one but it wasn't coupled to a completely burnt and worn out friction disc

 

[justinae]

Thanks @scotts90ranger I agree on the parts. I plan to just replace them all for simplicity.

On the RMS i made what you're talking about out of a 2x6 block and then secured a 2x4 over the hole for even distribution. I still can't walk the dang thing in. Took the night off to start fresh tomorrow.