2.3L ('83-'97) Time for a new clutch 96 2.3


I would try a long ratchet first (or a pipe over a short ratchet, whatever is handy, as long as it isn't a cheap junk ratchet), unless you got the impact flex sockets I don't think I would use an impact on them.
 
Ok I'll try the 24" plus a 6" extension and a 1/2" breaker bar first. So little leverage but that seems to work for people.
 
tried the breaker bar again and had a straight line and only two connectors. hit bar with hammer and still not getting anywhere. none of the other bolts were seized and I don't see evidence of rust. now it has the beginning indicators of rounding.

was able to get a flex head and can pull straight down but not much leverage. nothing.

switched to impact wrench and socket stayed on, no slipping, but just no movement.

hit it with some more blaster and waiting.

is this the common difficulty or am I just unlucky?
 
Having this much issue with those two bolts isn't normal, usually it's just fighting the awkward positions not tightness...

Might be awkward but if you can get a fair amount of torque on the bolts using a breaker bar then hitting the pivot of the breaker bar with a hammer straight on toward the engine it could help, kind of like an impact screwdriver... that does help sometimes.
 
Do you mean get the 1/2" with extensions and push to the point of torque then hit the head of the bar toward the head of the bolt? I think I see what you mean.

I also am thinking of putting my torch to it but worried about surrounding non metals.
 
Any idea how to move those harnesses with foam around them out of the way so I can torch?
 

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The problem with lots of extensions is it acts like a big spring, and the extra connections add a lot of slop. If you're going from underneath the one long extension and a hand ratchet with a tube slipped over the end is what I found works best from underneath.
 
FINALLY!

I ended up putting a 1/2" angled box wrench on them with an open wrench on the other end. I cut a 1x1x52" board to secure the wrench onto the head by wedging it from the head to a frame piece. I had one tong from the open end angled up so I could put a female extension over it and hammer from above (or below) and after a few whacks they finally loosened.
 
Other than the wood part, I've used that trick before...

Congrats, now continues the fun...
 
I'll remove the tranny and then celebrating with a cold one and some food carts. Definitely a new record for me on time spent on one bolt.

It was odd how easily the 1/2" wrench went onto the head which is supposed to be 13mm. My 13mm socket had the tiniest wiggle and the 1/2" was snug. I tried the other heads and same thing: snug but didn't have to fight to get the 1/2" on.
 
Yes, I have noticed that before, I've been very glad that they made them work for both size tools...
 
Considering the 1/2in fitting better, I'd double check to make sure some previous owner hasn't put a standard bolt in a metric hole...
 
All clutch parts pulled. I have a new flywheel just in case but not sure I really need it. How do these parts look?

I see what looks like a small area of excess heat on the flywheel but seems good other than that.
I'm not sure how to evaluate the clutch or pressure plate.
The old slave cylinder bounces back nicely but I'm going to replace it either way.
 

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I usually find it just a few dollars higher to get a new flywheel over having one turned. Rockauto is good for that.
 

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