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WHOA it's a fancy tierod end with no boot. and prolly Gob's more flex! kinda cool. somone should really start making high angle TRE's for factory application's
I thought about that, but at that point the Heim was done for anyway, so what the heckSplitting the insert would have been cheaper.....
...One that would be a step between a 4wd ranger and a mostly flat F150 arm would be a 2wd ranger pitman arm, they're around a 1" drop.
Thanks I'll Look into that option as well.i would prefer to run a flatter arm with a 1 ton tie rod end in the normal low side of the pitman arm at the box. certain year 250 arms will be perfect with a lil more throw to boot...
I don't disagree and I'm sure the bolts will go away in the future. Unfortuatenly, all the high steer arms, and the knuckles were allready drilled out to 3/4" prior to me owning this 44. So I'm kinda stuck with what I've got at this point. If I wind up blowing the 44 apart on a regular basis, I'll fix the steering when I go 60. I'm hoping the Hydro will help with the "Janky" feeling some....using a bolt always ends up janky in the end on most rigs i see out in the world....
If your using heims for 'strength' over a TRE, you may wanna click THIS link and check out Evolution Machines TRE's... they are the cat's ass.
5/8" would have worked, but as I noted before, the PO had allready drilled it out to 3/4". Work with what you got I suppose.also looks like you bought 3/4" heim joints. 3/4" shank 5/8" ball is the joint that size you want for steering.
more i look at the bed, i'm thinking the bob should have been the rear section, not the front- that would have helped w/ departure angle..
but that's your choice. nice truck none the less.
has to have the stock bed length after the axle cause of the leaf springs......
if he were to link the rear, then he could bob after the axle.....but keeping leaves is way more simple....
l8r, John
Those Evo TRE's are wicked. I was going to pick me up some of those, but a normal 1 ton Chev TRE should suffice.
also looks like you bought 3/4" heim joints. 3/4" shank 5/8" ball is the joint that size you want for steering.
wouldnt a 3/4''-3/4'' with the 3/4-5/8misalignment spacer's be better for connecting from the pitman arm to the knuckle?![]()
good riddens!
...just messing with you, im a fan of the ole cherokee's. had a few myself and to tell the truth if i didnt have the ranger id probably be running around in a chopped cherokee
i think youll be happy with the ranger, cant wait to get out on the trails with it.
....as for you knuck's bein drilled out to 3/4'' you could allway's drill them out to 1'' and buzz in some 1 ton tre insert's
Whoa, such a beast exists? I was looking for something of that nature but couldn’t find anything so I just went with Heims (didn’t really have the time to make them myself). Got a link by chance?
I was gettin too much bind without the misalignment. was going to limit my down travel quite a bit. in a flat situation i was using 3/4 x5/8 (tie rod) but for the drag link i had to run the misalignment's and have had no negative effect's aside from wearing out heim's which is aparentely typical.
this is the first setup (d30) with the uber tall coil's in it. i ultimately had to lower the front to bring every thing back into check. but i'm still running the misalignmetn's or it would bind about halfway droped out. just no other way about it that I see. i do see where your coming from with strengh as the 3/4x5/8 is nearly twice as strong.
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look at my picture again. that is a 3/4-5/8 joint with misalignments and 5/8" bolt. The style spacers you run sleeve into the ball. They make spacers, like mine.. that do not do this.