notching the frame wouldnt be bad if you end up having clearance problems, thats the way i would go.
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The Lone Ranger – Kage’s ’94 X-Cab Leaf SAS and Bed Bob
If that pic is at full lock you're golden. My steering/frontend gets stupid tight at full bump. As long as everything clears at the extremes, it will never get any closer than that, so you're good.
Looking great!
I will try and go to Smorr when you head there next time, just let me know.
I will try and go to Smorr when you head there next time, just let me know.
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I'm pretty sure that's the plan at this point. Going back to "Low Steer" just doesn't sound appealing at this point so I'll have to make something work.
Its pretty close to full lock and just shy of full stuff. It'll be dang tight. I'll let it self clearance for awhile if need be
June 4-5 Is the date that's penciled in right now. I plan on crusing down right after work on the 3rd for SIJA's Jeep Jam link. That said, I've still got quite a few things to get done on this truck before I even think about taking it outside of the neighborhood right now let alone a wheeling trip
Broken stuff sucks, especially when its new. I bought my steering heims at an end of the year sale, I just now got a chance to play with them. Unfortuneatly, one of the tube inserts gave me alot of trouble.
It threaded on fine until abou the halfway point when it got "tight". So I tried to back it out to see what was up. No go, that dude some how managed to sieze itself onto the heim. So I put it in a vise to try to get it apart:
-12" pipe wrench wouldn't touch it
-24" pipe wrench wouldn't touch it
-24" pipe wrench, and some heat didn't do it either.
-24" Pipe wrench, Lots of heat, 6' Cheater bar, and a pissed off fat guy got me this:
Best guess is that it broke somewhere in the neighborhood of 800ft-lbs. Annoying since I now have to wait for another one to show up
I'll be switching gears here some this week. The XJ is coming back to my house for its "last ride" I'll post up some photos of that fun later this weekend.
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Splitting the insert would have been cheaper.....
I ran an F150 pitman arm that was nearly flat, but you'll have to go to a wreckers and search for exactly what you want as it seemed there was absolutely no rhyme or reason to fords pitman arms selection, I found 2wd's with drop arms and flat, 4wd's with something in between etc.
One that would be a step between a 4wd ranger and a mostly flat F150 arm would be a 2wd ranger pitman arm, they're around a 1" drop.
I ran an F150 pitman arm that was nearly flat, but you'll have to go to a wreckers and search for exactly what you want as it seemed there was absolutely no rhyme or reason to fords pitman arms selection, I found 2wd's with drop arms and flat, 4wd's with something in between etc.
One that would be a step between a 4wd ranger and a mostly flat F150 arm would be a 2wd ranger pitman arm, they're around a 1" drop.
bobbywalter
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i would prefer to run a flatter arm with a 1 ton tie rod end in the normal low side of the pitman arm at the box. certain year 250 arms will be perfect with a lil more throw to boot.
using a bolt always ends up janky in the end on most rigs i see out in the world.... though to replace the stock pitman arm and fresh hardware is also quite cost effective on a machine that sees little if any road time.
using a bolt always ends up janky in the end on most rigs i see out in the world.... though to replace the stock pitman arm and fresh hardware is also quite cost effective on a machine that sees little if any road time.
If your using heims for 'strength' over a TRE, you may wanna click THIS link and check out Evolution Machines TRE's... they are the cat's ass.
im starting to think you have some stock in thier business
they deffinantly have some quality stuff
WHOA it's a fancy tierod end with no boot. and prolly Gob's more flex! kinda cool. somone should really start making high angle TRE's for factory application's
im starting to think you have some stock in thier business
they deffinantly have some quality stuff
Naw, they're just local and make some really cool stuff. The nice thing about them is that they are rebuildable and use a Delrin insert thats cheaply replaced and allow the joint to be tightened to accomodate wear.
Claytons working on different applications, lotsa diesel stuff at the moment... Newer stacked F350 steering parts, Dodge TRE's, Dmax Tierods etc.
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thats right, keep forgetting your across the "other" border lol
NMB2
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also looks like you bought 3/4" heim joints. 3/4" shank 5/8" ball is the joint that size you want for steering.
more i look at the bed, i'm thinking the bob should have been the rear section, not the front- that would have helped w/ departure angle..
but that's your choice. nice truck none the less.
but that's your choice. nice truck none the less.
robs
Member
has to have the stock bed length after the axle cause of the leaf springs......
if he were to link the rear, then he could bob after the axle.....but keeping leaves is way more simple....
l8r, John
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