I just finished reading your build thread, Nice work on the B2. I have Eb axles in my B2 right now but after reading your build I'm considering full size. Was it more difficult going through the woods or tight trials with the fs axles? Or could not tell a difference?
Maybe the 1354 is stronger but if you put a very stout motor in there you may want to consider that.
Well it's certainly wider but as for tight trails, it's not bad. I hit tires on tree before I hit body now which I much prefer and when I'm in hard lean crevices like V notches my body isn't pressed up against the bank either. For most trails the wider axles are much better imo, very stable. I haven't come to a trail I couldn't fit down yet and I wheel with a lot of jeeps, where they fit I can fit too. It's just under 80" sidewall to sidewall on 38x12.5's.
I was under the impression the 1354/1350 were pretty stout tcases, seen the 1354 behind a bbf tube buggy on 48" tractor tires at TTC a couple years ago, held up to that abuse from what they said anyways. Isn't the 1350 the same basic tcase?
I think I still have a d20 available to me from the guy I got the eb c4 from. I'm not keen on the "hang down" of the stock d20 arrangement. The C4/d20 is so short of a set-up by themselves that I would loose a ton a front drive shaft length as well as loose flex capabilities up front because of it. At least without adding a doubler somehow. I could make a clocking adapter to replace the stock adapter and rotate the d20 up so it doesn't hang down so far but I'd still loose front drive shaft length but it's short enough that a doubler would be a perfect match provided I can make one work.
It's certainly an option in my mind still. The d20 is a tough tcase for sure. Can you get front digs from the d20 twin stick? This would be a seller for me.
As of now my front and rear drive shafts are very close in length.
I went with the 20 as my tcase as its stupid short without the adapter housing on it. With the reduction box on the front, my doubler setup is only 17.5" from trans mounting surface to center of u-joint for rear driveshaft. It's almost the same length as a stock 1354, and I've got a 2.48, 2.72 and 6.75 crawl ratios. Something thats definitely beneficial to you is keeping it as short as possible. If you are going to look into machining the output shaft, I would look into dropping the tc adapter off the trans, shorten the output shaft, and adapt the reduction box in place of the adapter, then hook up your rear tcase of your choice. This setup would give you maximum rear driveshaft length, if not give you more room for a longer rear shaft...
SVT
If I could keep the whole set-up close in length as what I have now it would be outstanding. I'm at 41.5-42" back of engine to rear output ujoint (fm146/1350). I realize keeping that length is pretty well not going to happen, lol. Having both drive shafts at almost equal length right now is great. I know using a FS auto trans and tcase will be longer than what's in there now, and that's without a doubler. My rear drive shaft is 32" long, it's the stock 91-94 explorer front drive shaft. I'm still running the slip yoke front 1350 right now but I have a 1354m sitting on the shop floor waiting. Doing some measuring the front drive shaft with the 1354 installed would be roughly 32ish inches. So I could run equal length f&r dshafts. Since I'm ramping up for the v8 swap I'm not about to tare it apart just to swap in the 1354 yet.
I just measured my 1354 at 12 1/2" long from front of case to ujoint center and my fm146/1350 is 41.5-42" long bell to rear output ujoint.
Pulled this from Wildhorses4x4.com
eb c4 is 17" v8 bell to adapter mount, without adapter (11" body-6" bell) or roughly 20" from bell to tail shaft governer housing and start of output splines.
d20 is 11 1/4" long
stock d20 adapter is 7 3/8" long
np203 range box is 5 3/4"
So by that the eb c4/d20 set-up is 35" long, 6.5-7" more for my set-up gives me room for a short doubler set-up and I build short adapters to mate it all together. That just leaves figuring out shafts to mate c4 to range box and range box to tcase. With home made adapter the c4/1354 could be 32.5" long? AA says their short adapter is 6.8" long so that would make it 36.3" long c4/aa adapter/1354. Still room for doubler.
I can play with rear diff location a few inches still, lengthening the wheel base a bit just to keep my rear drive shaft at a better length. I'd still like to move the rear diff back some anyways, bring my tires closer to the rear bumper.
Things to think more about anyways.
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