The Deuce

[CUracing]

I think you are correct Rangersvt, The J-shift is real easy(this is what I have), don't have to split the cases it's an external mod, small cut on shifter rail, ten minutes. And the T-shift you have to take it apart, but the T-shift as just alittle bit lower gears I think.

Yes I have heard of the outputs braking, but I think that has more to do with how rough you are on truck. I think bronco graveyard sells a heavy duty output. I have wheeled my B2 for six years with my current combo (stock output shaft)never have broke any thing in transfer case. The only problem I have out of mine is the rear output seal starts leaking every year or two.

Clint

 

[BONES]

I think you are correct Rangersvt, The J-shift is real easy(this is what I have), don't have to split the cases it's an external mod, small cut on shifter rail, ten minutes. And the T-shift you have to take it apart, but the T-shift as just alittle bit lower gears I think.

Yes I have heard of the outputs braking, but I think that has more to do with how rough you are on truck. I think bronco graveyard sells a heavy duty output. I have wheeled my B2 for six years with my current combo (stock output shaft)never have broke any thing in transfer case. The only problem I have out of mine is the rear output seal starts leaking every year or two.

Clint

That's what worries me a little. I tend to beat on my wheelers pretty hard.

Tho I have only broke one 1350 and that was because of a rear ujoint failure that took out the back of the tcase housing.

BC Broncos site says the 73-77 "J" d20 has 2.34:1 low range and the 66-72 "T" d20 has 2.46:1, seems the older d20 is slightly lower geared. The 1350/1354 have 2.48:1 so it wouldn't be much of a change.

Buddy with the d20 hasnt got back to me yet anyways. I have a couple other EB guys I'm trying to get a hold of now.

So the d20 requires a spud shaft to mate to the c4 too?

 

[BONES]

Ouch 429bux for the extreme duty output kit.....

 

[Andres629]

There is a dude in Salmon Arm I believe that shortens and resplines shafts. If you can't find anything local, shipping to Kelowna would be much cheaper than Kentucky!

 

[RangerSVT]

Look at bronco graveyard for any dana 20 parts, including a heavy duty 32 spline output shaft. BG has the cheapest prices (trust me, I've been looking). The J shift (which is what I have, one in my 77 bronco, the other is mating to my doubler) is 2.36, the T shift is 2.48. I wanted the T shift model, and I think I have a line on one. They also have lomax 3.15 gears for the 20, but at almost 900 (I think) a set, I can wait on these....The input shafts for the 20 (spud shafts) can be had from Advance Adapters for any spline trans, from the 21 spline all the way to 32 spline shafts, or I'm sure you can find a shop to fab you one, or do like I am doing and use the output shaft of your reduction box and have it machined to the 20's 6 spline main gear, this way you do not have a separate intermediate gear, but rather a one piece, stronger shaft...
SVT

 

[BONES]

Hey thanks Andres, might have to get some more info on the resplining guy near your neck of the woods. That would certainly be a lot cheaper shipping especially because I work for a freight company who frequents that area, lol.

SVT, that idea is a good one man. Look at getting my 2wd c4 output shortened and replined to the 1354 reduction boxes input spline and then respline the 1354's output to match what ever tcase I end up going with. If it's even possible with the 1354 output..... I'm uncertain about this tho, as you would think this is the route others would have went with the 1354 instead of the 2 piece shaft....

I'll have to look more into the 1354 output shaft and why the 2 piece shaft is used by some. If its possible to go your route I'll just use the 1350 as the reduction box and the 1354 as the rear tcase. Would have nearly a 5:1 (4.96:1) reduction in double low with that setup!

Funny I was looking at the trans outputs, 25 spline b2, 26 spline mustang2 c4, 27 spline th350, 28 spline eb, I wonder if their even close to the same diameter output shafts, yeah not too likely eh, lol.

Random thot for an unrelated project, my 68 land rover with gm drive train. I have a 27 spline input np 205 and a 32 spline input np 205 and my 27 spline input np205 has the 32 spline output. I wonder if I could slide the 2 205s together and build an adapter to make a doubler, it would be a couple feet long mind you but I wonder......

 

[BONES]

You know now I think about it I wonder what my jeep d20 tcase has for input, it's pass drop but I could probably flip it and cable shift it. Or even keep it pass drop and double it to the 1354 for drivers drop.

 

[RangerSVT]

Random thot for an unrelated project, my 68 land rover with gm drive train. I have a 27 spline input np 205 and a 32 spline input np 205 and my 27 spline input np205 has the 32 spline output. I wonder if I could slide the 2 205s together and build an adapter to make a doubler, it would be a couple feet long mind you but I wonder......

You would end up with a gwaii specialty with a tcase at your rear bumper, then another along side your transmission tail end...

You know now I think about it I wonder what my jeep d20 tcase has for input, it's pass drop but I could probably flip it and cable shift it. Or even keep it pass drop and double it to the 1354 for drivers drop.

Jeep 20's only have a 2.0:1....Now that you mention it, I believe the main shaft in the 1350 series cases were hollow in the middle all the way through, not leaving much metal to work with after cut and respline, Unlike the 1356 shaft which is hollow only for the first 5 or so inches, which is engaged in the reduction gears anyways. It may be possible for them to machine a new piece from solid stock material....I also have considered taking the internal reduction planetaries and gears and fabbing a super short reduction box out of .50 thick aluminum pipe, or even .375 steel pipe. The idea thats floating around in my head is that I can make the reduction boc about 4 to 5 inches long...
SVT

 

[BONES]

Hmm, 2:1 hey, not terrible I guess, Ive been playing with the 1.96:1 np205 for years without a problem.

Yeah maybe thats why the 1350's had to be 2 pieces.

 

[RangerSVT]

Well, my wheels in my head are in deep reduction mode, as I've been thinking of this super-short reduction box using the 56 internals....I think I've got it figured out how I'm going to fab this, and I have decided to use the steel pipe for strength and reliability. Weight wise its only going to be maybe 5 pounds heavier than the aluminum pipe, but strength won't be questioned. I haven't got back home to do any measuring, but I think I will be finishing the 56/20 combo, selling the reduction box as a bolt on up-grade with the shaft included, and fabbing the new reduction using either a 1356 or a 1345 (the 45 has the same internals, just a little older IIRC)
SVT

 

[RangerSVT]

Ok my gears just shifted into high gear....Wonder how long it would be for me to fab a 3 speed case....Basically, two reduction boxes and the tcase, each reduction box would be about 5 inches, and the tcase is roughly 11 inches....hmm....
SVT

 

[BONES]

20ish inch 3 sp set-up would be nice if you have the wheel base. Mind you it would only be about 6" longer than what I have under there now, lol.

Even with the 2:1 d20 I would still be at 4.48:1 in double low, not bad imo. So I would need the c4 to 1354 spud and then a 1354 to d20 spud, preferably all 1 piece shafts.

So your saying the 1354 reduction pieces are only 5" long total?

Without adapters, it could end up being 36" for the c4/1354/d20? That's only 1" longer than said c4/d20 combo with stock adapter. Hmmm, I like the sounds of that, I could even add a second 1354 reduction and still be close to my stock setup 42" mark. 6.96:1 would b sick man!! You think the d20 could handle that much reduction? If I had easy access to a machine shop that could spline stuff this would be the way I'd like to go.

 

[Andres629]

Hold on hold on, back it up a minute. How long is a 2WD C4 output shaft? Reason I ask is, I have a 2WD C4 to go behind my 4.0, and have a D300 to go behind that... but if I could shorten/respline the C4 output to 25 spline, use my 1350 reduction box and my D300 with 4:1 low range...

**edit**I don't HAVE the C4 yet, or I'd measure it myself. But I have one waiting for me pretty much whenever I pick it up... How much longer is that output than a factory RBV trans?

 

[RangerSVT]

I have no doubt in my mind the 20 will handle the torque, it's an all gear iron case. If an aluminum case can handle 1632 ft lbs of torque (600 ft lbs from a powerstroke, 1356 going 2.72 low range) without coming apart, i know an iron case with no chain can handle it...Later on if you find you need or want more gearing, I believe its lomax that has a 3.15 set for the 20....I know 248 to 315 aint much, but by the time you multiple it down the long list of gears, it adds up quick
SVT

 

[BONES]

Well I have to go dig out my 2wd c4 and pull the tail housing off to get at the output shaft, but just looking at it the tail housing appears to be a few inches longer than the output shaft on the 4x4 c4. I'll see what I can do to measure it up for ya Andres.

I guess hey SVT, my d18 in my cj5 and cj2a handled the v8 no problem and the d20 is slightly more robust. Even after I did a rookie 4000rpm "clutch drop burn out" on pavement to impress a girl back in high school, lol, needless to say the t14a tranny shit the bed but the d18 tcase is still good to go.

I have another project in mine for the d18 tcase tho, it has pass side offset front and rear outputs. Plans were to use a drivers drop d44 steering axle in the rear and pass drop d44 steering axle up front, and build a light weight 4 wheel steer 4.0L V6 tube buggy, too many plans not enough money or time, lol.

More gearing lol, yeah but those Lomax gear sets aren't cheap by any account, would be cheaper to swap in a couple np231/241's and build my own adapters. I can get either 1 for $50 around here. You could get 5.44 final with the 2.72:1 in them, or 5.63 with the 248 and 315. Provided I could get spud shafts made cheap enough. Mind you it would be less gearing choice with 2 of the same ratios. Even the np 231 with d20 behind it would be a good 4.72:1 final or the 1354 with np 231 be 5.2:1. Another choice would be an np205 behind the 1354 for a final of 4.44:1.

The d20, d300 and np 205 are the only front dig cases I'm aware of. I'd really like to get that option out of this set-up when all is said and done. I know you can twin stick convert the 231/241's but all you get out of that set-up is 2wd low rear, no front digs option at all from what I understand.