Stangman92's '94 4x4 build

[RangerSVT]

Gonna try to use a '94 4.0 Ranger 2-core radiator.

That will work. I used that rad in an 88 bronco ii swap I did with quad 7" fans, no cooling issues. Used the stock 96 ranger 2 core rad in SVT with dual 10" fans. The dual 10's worked ok, kept it cool on the roads but heated up a little on the rrails. With the dual 10" fans I was only covering 2/3 of the rad, which is why I went with quad fans on the bronco, more coverage on the rad...

SVT

 

[willy]

Im using contour fans there dual fans with a shroud about 80% radiator coverage and the pull lots of air

 

[Stangman92]

Thanks for the suggestions. I know its going to be a tight squeeze with the Thunderbird fan.

Spent today getting the flywheel and clutch in. I also ordered bolts for the transmission to engine (7/16) and transfer case (m10). Had to order them since none of the hardware stores around carry much of either.

Anyway, here's the view from underneath, again the passenger side header is currently resting on the frame but it won't when I'm done.





Backing plate and flywheel installed, ARP bolts.



Clutch installed, once again ARP bolts.



The flywheel and clutch is from a '95 F150 5.0. Its huge, Lol. I measured again and the new m5od-r2 is a bit taller than the original m5od-r1. Also the behemoth bw1356 will fit thanks to the body lift, but my radius arm cross member will need to be modified.

Now I'm waiting for bolts to get the trans and t-case in....

 

[Stangman92]

Transmission and t-case are in. The transmission went right in like it belonged there! The BW1356..... Well that took some work. Lots of hammering, grinding, and cutting. I'm not entirety happy with the way I had to make it fit, but it is what it is. The problem was that my radius arm cross member was right where the t-case is, so I had to make the t-case NOT hang below the frame.

Here a passenger side view of the trans, notice the header is now 3/4"+ away from the frame



Another passenger side view, here's the t-case. Note its not in its final position yet. Also I removed all the heat shields from the cab for better fit.



Here's a few pics of the back of the t-case, notice I had to cut away at the rear cab support bar. I notice no difference in strength from within the cab.





Here's why I'm not super excited.... I had to notch the frame .I took about 5/8" off of it on the top side. There's still about 1 1/2" of the frame left, which is plenty for strength purposes.



Passenger side view, plenty of room for activities!





Here's where my interference problem is. Once again this is not the final position, its going to be moved up and to the passenger side. If I jack it all the way up against the floorboard its about 1/4" above the bottom of the frame rail. So my intentions are to get it really close to the cab floorboard, and modify the cross member a little bit. Basically I will just cut slits in it, hammer down thoses slits, weld it back, and reinstall it. This should give me about 3/4" clearance on the bottom of the t-case. Note how I grinded away every little bit I could, Lol



Also I got the computer mounted in the firewall, my aluminum box that I made wouldn't work, so I hacked it up, cut the hole in the firewall and made it work. Looks decent.



There's still time left in the day, I might try and get the cross member modified. Pics to follow

 

[Stangman92]

See above pics for radius arm cross member interference with the t-case.

Got the cross member modified this afternoon. I marked it off, cut a section out, made a 3/4" deep trough and welded it in place. Very difficult to see in the pics.



And re installed, it works great. Still need to build a transmission cross member, which will raise the t-case at least 1/2" from where it is now. I think that will be adequate clearance. Any thoughts?????

 

[prerunner]

See above pics for radius arm cross member interference with the t-case.

Got the cross member modified this afternoon. I marked it off, cut a section out, made a 3/4" deep trough and welded it in place. Very difficult to see in the pics.



And re installed, it works great. Still need to build a transmission cross member, which will raise the t-case at least 1/2" from where it is now. I think that will be adequate clearance. Any thoughts?????

This is a great build, I've been following it closely. Its kind of like my 93 but quicker and cleaner, lol. My only thought about how you've redone the crossmember is that the 'trough' will retain water and mud as you use the truck. A drain hole might solve that.
Other than that, awesome build.

 

[Stangman92]

I was thinking the same thing. It souldn't hold much. I guess I really should think about it and keep an eye on it.

 

[willy]

Looks good my only concern is its a chicago truck and we have salt so plate the frame where you cut it out and if it can hold water you will have rust so drains are a must or dont drive it in the winter

 

[Stangman92]

After sleeping on it, you guys are right. I definitely need a drain on that cross member, and I should plate the frame too. A piece of 3/16" angle iron should do the trick.

 

[willy]

Lances drive shaft in Portage, IN did a good job on my rear shaft if your still looking for a drive shaft shop

 

[Stangman92]

Thanks Willy, I found another solution.

I haven't been working this as much as I should. Between work, learning how to ride the new Harley, plus all the damn rain. Anyway here's what I have gotten done.

Managed to re-fabricate the trans cross member and get it installed. I didn't take into account how heavy the transmission and T-case was ( and how much it compresses the mount). So I will need to shim it up just a little bit more.





When I originally did the Chevy 63" spring swap, I was never happy. It rode a little rough, flexed decent, and I was never happy with my shackle angle. Plus I had to reuse the original lift block, plus the overload. On top of that, the springs didnt seem to center the axle between the wheel wells. I did some thinking and knew what was the best thing to do. Pro-Comp 13711's. This solved several issues. 1: fixed the shackle angle, 2: removed the factory lift blocks, 3: allowed me to bolt the springs directly to the axle to eliminate any chance of axle wrap. 4: This is a major one... It recentered the rear axle to the wheel well. So now I was able to reuse the 1 piece driveshaft.

Notice the height and length difference.












I still need a new front driveshaft. Plus I noticed the transmission is leaking from between the main case housing and extension housing. So it needs to be resealed. Still a bunch of connections to go.

 

[Jsommers]

Ive been looking at the 3.5" procomp 63" springs for my truck. I actually really liked my chevy 63s. I took the overloads off of them tho. I did notice the wheel not being centered in the wheel well which i didnt like. And ever since the axle swap it has a decent lean to it which i think the stiff ttb springs were covering up. Hopefully they work as good as the 5.5" worked for you.

Sent from my LG-LS980 using Tapatalk

 

[willy]

Lookin good bud im gatherin up parts to start my sas now the dana 35 up front had a mishap with a 5.0 and a burnout

 

[Stangman92]

Time to get back on this. Winters coming, lol.

 

[willy]

Did my swap in the snow not fun bud