Good to know, I'm ready to start engine fitmint now. Just waiting for a nice day, hopefully this weekend I can get the engine mocked up and in for good.
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Stangman92's '94 4x4 build
- Thread starter Stangman92
- Start date
Jsommers
Well-Known Member
Im about at the same point. I was just trying to get the headers and mounts ready before i test fit it into the truck. Just seeing if you had any better ideas but i think i can make it work with the motor spaced up an inch and a little trimming of the plates.
I agree, the way the headers are shaped it seems easier to notch (or make completely new) plates. This is my next step.
I completely forgot about my Thunderbird electric fan with 2 speed Volvo controls. So I spent some time last night wiring the relay into the factory fuse box. Pictured here is the Volvo fan power wire, and the new alternator connector.
I also managed to finally get the old fuel lines cut off and the AN fittings attached. I also discovered the factory EVAP vapor line from the tank was completely rusted away for about 6". So it appears to be there from the top side of the engine bay, and along the frame, but it isn't connected. For now I will plan on capping off the line, and hope I don't run into any problems.
Notice the EVAP line rusted off right at the clamp
Sorry for the blurry pic, here's the engine fuel line connections, as well as the removed pieces. Also in the pic (sort of) is my bike I picked up a few weeks ago. It's a 13 Harley Switchback. I've yet to ride it yet. I'm trying to focus more of my attention on the Ranger. I will get out riding soon though.
As mentioned, next step is engine mount fabrication and getting the engine in for good.
I completely forgot about my Thunderbird electric fan with 2 speed Volvo controls. So I spent some time last night wiring the relay into the factory fuse box. Pictured here is the Volvo fan power wire, and the new alternator connector.
I also managed to finally get the old fuel lines cut off and the AN fittings attached. I also discovered the factory EVAP vapor line from the tank was completely rusted away for about 6". So it appears to be there from the top side of the engine bay, and along the frame, but it isn't connected. For now I will plan on capping off the line, and hope I don't run into any problems.
Notice the EVAP line rusted off right at the clamp
Sorry for the blurry pic, here's the engine fuel line connections, as well as the removed pieces. Also in the pic (sort of) is my bike I picked up a few weeks ago. It's a 13 Harley Switchback. I've yet to ride it yet. I'm trying to focus more of my attention on the Ranger. I will get out riding soon though.
As mentioned, next step is engine mount fabrication and getting the engine in for good.
Measured the 4.0 engine mounts. They are exactly 1.125" difference. I think I'm going to space up the drivers side 1.25" to compensate for the BW1356 t-case. I hope it will be enough. I hope the rain holds off this weekend, I want the engine in!
Lookin good bud another fan option is the ford contour fans its a dual fansetup and very low profile with lots of flow only single speed im running a ground switch from jegs from there controller 60 bucks into my dual setup
Got the engine in! 
Pics are mostly self explanatory, but here's what I had to do in order for the headers to work with the explorer plates and the engine sit level. First the drivers side was raised 1.25" and spacers were welded to the explorer plates. The passenger side needed no spacers, but the factory shim that was welded to the plate needed to be removed.
Drivers side- 1.25" spacers welded to plates, redrilled hole and cut. Enough room for open end wrench to tighten the nut to factory 4.0 mount.
The factory explorer passenger side plate has a 1/16" shim welded to it, it needs to be removed.
And removed.
Here you can see why. On the passenger side there is just enough room for the factory nut to fit between the explorer plate and Sanderson header. A shim would have helped, but I wanted to keep the engine as low as possible. Because the nut just fits, once again you'll have to use an open end wrench to tighten the engine down. Also not pictured, I had to cut down the factory 4.0 motor mount stud so that it was flush with the nut. If I left it alone the motor mount stud would hit the header....
Pics are mostly self explanatory, but here's what I had to do in order for the headers to work with the explorer plates and the engine sit level. First the drivers side was raised 1.25" and spacers were welded to the explorer plates. The passenger side needed no spacers, but the factory shim that was welded to the plate needed to be removed.
Drivers side- 1.25" spacers welded to plates, redrilled hole and cut. Enough room for open end wrench to tighten the nut to factory 4.0 mount.
The factory explorer passenger side plate has a 1/16" shim welded to it, it needs to be removed.
And removed.
Here you can see why. On the passenger side there is just enough room for the factory nut to fit between the explorer plate and Sanderson header. A shim would have helped, but I wanted to keep the engine as low as possible. Because the nut just fits, once again you'll have to use an open end wrench to tighten the engine down. Also not pictured, I had to cut down the factory 4.0 motor mount stud so that it was flush with the nut. If I left it alone the motor mount stud would hit the header....
Lookin good hows the collector to frame clearance my bbk shorties were dam tight and if you find a good driveshaft shop in the chicago area i need a rear shaft made
Drivers side mount.
Passenger side. Currently the header is resting on the frame, but when I install the transmission it should raise the engine back up. So the header fitmint depends on the drive line angle. Right now I'm not worried about it, but we'll see.
Preliminary measurements are saying that the transmission will fit great, both shifters will be a bit forward (shouldn't be an issue). But the BW1356 is causing a bit of an issue on my wallet, Lol. It appears I will need 2 new driveshafts. Now I'm ordering bolts for everything, and hope to get a little bit of work done each night. I hope this answers any questions.
Willy, if I find a local driveshaft guy, I'll be sure to let you know. Thanks for the comments!
Passenger side. Currently the header is resting on the frame, but when I install the transmission it should raise the engine back up. So the header fitmint depends on the drive line angle. Right now I'm not worried about it, but we'll see.
Preliminary measurements are saying that the transmission will fit great, both shifters will be a bit forward (shouldn't be an issue). But the BW1356 is causing a bit of an issue on my wallet, Lol. It appears I will need 2 new driveshafts. Now I'm ordering bolts for everything, and hope to get a little bit of work done each night. I hope this answers any questions.
Willy, if I find a local driveshaft guy, I'll be sure to let you know. Thanks for the comments!
Another thing id get some of the fiberglass spark wire heat shields incase the wires decide they like headers
When we get our piles running right we need to have a trs badlands trip
Absolutely! I love it there.
What radiator are you running took me a few trys but the lower hose for a 99 5.0 mountaineer has the right bends for non oilcooler 5.0
Gonna try to use a '94 4.0 Ranger 2-core radiator.
That should do
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