Slave Cylinder/Clutch Help

[timbits588]

I’ve been doing some troubleshooting and research on 3 different ranger forums and decided to post up a question and get some input.

I have a 2003 Fx4 Level II with the 4.0 SOHC, manual transmission, and manual transfer case. About a month or so ago it started shifting harder than normal. Then I was driving it the one day and the pedal seemed a lot softer than normal and wouldn’t engage into first very well (or disengage for that matter). I was able to drive home by shutting off the engine at stoplights and shifting into first, then starting back up. There was just enough pressure for me to start the truck up and not lurch or stall out. Then I basically rev-matched the rest of the way home.

Now, I can’t even start it in 1st or reverse with the clutch all the way depressed, so I have no way to take it anywhere aside from having it towed. I tried gravity bleeding the slave and then with an assistant. At first what came through the line looked like it had tiny rust or dirt particles in it. (Not sure if that is a clue to a shot slave or anything.) Doing that didn’t help at all. Then I went and disconnected the master cylinder and bled that. That did not help either. The clutch pedal is basically dead.

So at this point I’m assuming I’m going to need to replace the slave and all else (clutch, bearings, etc) while I’m in there. Does this seem like the right thing to do? Also I have heard a lot of people talk about clutch kits on the forums and online, but no one ever lists any brands or part numbers. Does anyone have one they would recommend?

Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions!!

 

[RonD]

Yes, Ranger clutch bleeding is a common problem.
If reservoir ever runs dry it is a PITA to rebleed the system.

If you have a helper see if you are building pressure by pushing the pedal down and then releasing the bleeder.

What can happen is that because of the angle of the Master cylinder it can get air trapped at the top, so you are not getting full pedal travel, so slave is only moving 1/2 or 3/4 of it's travel.
Good video of how to bleed that on youtube by Jennies Garage
Google: How To Bleed A Ford Ranger Clutch Master Cylinder

It may not be the problem but easy enough to check before dropping transmission.

Standard bleeding instruction here:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/bleedclutch.htm


You can get pressure plates for the Rangers that are self adjusting(stock) or not self adjusting(cheaper).
This is the same for most clutches not just rangers
Self adjusting pressure plates have 3 or 4 springs that are compressed when new, then push the pressure plate closer to the flywheel as clutch disc wears down, with these the clutch pedal stays in the middle for disengage/engage through out the life of the clutch disc.

Non self adjusting will have the disengage/engage at the top of the pedal when new, then it will slowly move to the bottom of the pedal when its time to replace clutch again.

Either is fine.

Not sure on the "kits", throw-out bearing and slave should be replace when the clutch and pressure plate are.
master might be needed in your case