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sasdranger
Well-Known Member
sasdranger's SAS thread -no 56K
I've had a few people asking me what i did, and instead of typing it over and over i'll make a thread on here.
the front axle is from a '78 F-150 still FW
- Yukon 5.13s
- Full spool
- stock shafts for now, chromos when i get the money.
the rear axle is from an '85 F-150 still FW as well
- Stock gearing ~3.55s for now, lacking money there too.. i split the carrier on the 8.8 so the 9" had to be put in ahead of schedule.
- Plans include 5.13s and maybe an ARB so i don't eat up the tires on the street, or just a spool since its cheap and effective. I may just ditch the 9" and go with a 14BFF though.
I had some nice shiny MT Classic IIs but i had to change the bolt pattern on a budget so i have some cragars now
-The front leaves are out of a wagoneer. not sure what year.
Rear leaves are stock ~4" block, RCD shackles. temp, need money for 63s with 3.5" lift
-The steering box is out of a '95 4Runner
-I plated both sides of the frame with 1/4" flat stock(over all the ripples for the crush zone)
-then drilled three 3/4" holes for 3/4"x.120" DOM to sleeve the frame
here's the hose fittings and stuff
the easy way to distinguish between them is, the return side just has clamps on the hoses due to the lower pressure, the pressure side has crimped on fittings and a much stronger hose.
i took a stock ranger pressure hose to Napa and had them cut it just behind the old fitting on the rack and pinion end, then i had them crimp on a #6 fitting, which then screws onto this adapter
http://www.pscmotorsports.com/pscsf0...0mut32glsu9n92
and that adapter screws into the pressure side of the steering box.
then just cut the return line to the right length, push this adapter on,
http://www.pscmotorsports.com/fra209...0mut32glsu9n92
then screw this adapter onto the previous one.
http://www.pscmotorsports.com/pscsf...a-p-743.html?zenid=12r5r0b3p4dp0mut32glsu9n92
-and screw all that onto the return side
finished look.
**They may try and give you a hard time for the fittings and junk not being DOT approved so don't tell them what its on, or tell them its an offroad toy only**
i got a 3/4" DD x 3/4" DD u-joint, one end fits the steering column and ground a chunk of 3/4" solid stock out to make it fit.
http://www.pscmotorsports.com/bor01...t-p-711.html?zenid=013bva0717d17qlb4da072hn36
then the other end, i cut the yoda shaft, and knocked/drilled it out of the rag joint part, then welded the solid stock into it
and i have a 3/4" heim in the middle for support, but i would use a pillow block since you can grease them, i was just lazy/broke and it needed to get redone. i'm also going to get a 3/4" DD u-joint, one side being DD and one side having the spline count that the yoda box has to take out the possibility of something failing.
here's the general idea.. but idk what size or what the spline count is
http://www.pscmotorsports.com/bor01...t-p-703.html?zenid=013bva0717d17qlb4da072hn36
Ok, onto the actual build thread.
The first like 4 days were spent taking crap apart and prepping the frame, and this is how it looked after that.
Being that the origional plan was to put the shackles in the back, i made some really beefy spring mounts.. they're 1/4" plate and took me a few days, redesigning them a few times. Welded inside and out..
Pile of major parts needed
Then the last week was just a mad scramble finding the parts and pieces i needed to get it pushed out the door. we didn't get everything done so i had to move it to a friends shop in town. (class mate who decided, instead of living in a apartment him and some friends went in on an old shop)
Jump in progress from the last pics.
the head on the center pins are like 7/8", by the sounds of it my partner has those on his 3/4 ton shebby
Hi-lift flex, rough estimates on shocks/bump stops
yay old arc welders
and my inspiration for the build.
now onto the rest of the steering. All the tubing is 1.5"x.250" DOM
I drilled out the knuckles to accept a 3/4" heim(the big side of the tapered hole was 3/4")
so the tie rod has 2, 3/4"x7/8" shank heims with weld in bungs. and i moved the whole thing above the mounting area(dunno technical term)
The TRE's i had weren't fitting right and i didn't want to play the guessing game and try to bend the tubing w/o a bender, PLUS i REALLY didn't want to bend the drag link, i would rather have a short one.
I saw the bracket PSC made, but didn't like that it was single shear setup, so I made my own double shear bracket out of 3/8" plate. This setup will be gone pretty soon, I'm gonna do cross over steering with a reid racing knuckle and a Ballistic arm. The bracket will probably make for a nice place to mount hydro assist so its staying.
The drag link consists of a 5/8"x3/4" shank heim with regular spacers on the tie rod end. the pitman arm has a 3/4"x3/4" shank heim with high misalignment spacers that bring it down to a 5/8" bolt holding it on.
here's how it looked the first night i drove it. I had some issues with the brakes not bleeding and the PS pump not bleeding either but they got figured out.
First flex
as for the shocks, i have 12" 5125 Bilsteins, and TG shock hoops.
More playing around posing.
before.
after. oh yea, we cut the frame off and welded on a piece of 2x4.250 as a new cross member that the winch and bumper will be attached to. I'll make a new rear cross member outa the same junk.
To Do list.. is endless, but sooner than later
-Cross over steering
-Tires
-Hydro assist
-Gear and lock the 9" + traction bar
-Front shaft
-63s with lift and longer than stock shackles
-2" lift waggy springs
-pull the body lift, after i remount the radiator that will hit the shakcles
-bumpers
-sliders
-chromos
-link the front
Let me know if something is hard to read, i was trying to proofread it but i know there's still some mistakes in there. Enjoy.
I've had a few people asking me what i did, and instead of typing it over and over i'll make a thread on here.
the front axle is from a '78 F-150 still FW
- Yukon 5.13s
- Full spool
- stock shafts for now, chromos when i get the money.
the rear axle is from an '85 F-150 still FW as well
- Stock gearing ~3.55s for now, lacking money there too.. i split the carrier on the 8.8 so the 9" had to be put in ahead of schedule.
- Plans include 5.13s and maybe an ARB so i don't eat up the tires on the street, or just a spool since its cheap and effective. I may just ditch the 9" and go with a 14BFF though.
I had some nice shiny MT Classic IIs but i had to change the bolt pattern on a budget so i have some cragars now
-The front leaves are out of a wagoneer. not sure what year.
Rear leaves are stock ~4" block, RCD shackles. temp, need money for 63s with 3.5" lift
-The steering box is out of a '95 4Runner
-I plated both sides of the frame with 1/4" flat stock(over all the ripples for the crush zone)
-then drilled three 3/4" holes for 3/4"x.120" DOM to sleeve the frame
here's the hose fittings and stuff
the easy way to distinguish between them is, the return side just has clamps on the hoses due to the lower pressure, the pressure side has crimped on fittings and a much stronger hose.
i took a stock ranger pressure hose to Napa and had them cut it just behind the old fitting on the rack and pinion end, then i had them crimp on a #6 fitting, which then screws onto this adapter
http://www.pscmotorsports.com/pscsf0...0mut32glsu9n92
and that adapter screws into the pressure side of the steering box.
then just cut the return line to the right length, push this adapter on,
http://www.pscmotorsports.com/fra209...0mut32glsu9n92
then screw this adapter onto the previous one.
http://www.pscmotorsports.com/pscsf...a-p-743.html?zenid=12r5r0b3p4dp0mut32glsu9n92
-and screw all that onto the return side
finished look.
**They may try and give you a hard time for the fittings and junk not being DOT approved so don't tell them what its on, or tell them its an offroad toy only**
i got a 3/4" DD x 3/4" DD u-joint, one end fits the steering column and ground a chunk of 3/4" solid stock out to make it fit.
http://www.pscmotorsports.com/bor01...t-p-711.html?zenid=013bva0717d17qlb4da072hn36
then the other end, i cut the yoda shaft, and knocked/drilled it out of the rag joint part, then welded the solid stock into it
and i have a 3/4" heim in the middle for support, but i would use a pillow block since you can grease them, i was just lazy/broke and it needed to get redone. i'm also going to get a 3/4" DD u-joint, one side being DD and one side having the spline count that the yoda box has to take out the possibility of something failing.
here's the general idea.. but idk what size or what the spline count is
http://www.pscmotorsports.com/bor01...t-p-703.html?zenid=013bva0717d17qlb4da072hn36
Ok, onto the actual build thread.
The first like 4 days were spent taking crap apart and prepping the frame, and this is how it looked after that.
Being that the origional plan was to put the shackles in the back, i made some really beefy spring mounts.. they're 1/4" plate and took me a few days, redesigning them a few times. Welded inside and out..
Pile of major parts needed
Then the last week was just a mad scramble finding the parts and pieces i needed to get it pushed out the door. we didn't get everything done so i had to move it to a friends shop in town. (class mate who decided, instead of living in a apartment him and some friends went in on an old shop)
Jump in progress from the last pics.
the head on the center pins are like 7/8", by the sounds of it my partner has those on his 3/4 ton shebby
Hi-lift flex, rough estimates on shocks/bump stops
yay old arc welders
and my inspiration for the build.
now onto the rest of the steering. All the tubing is 1.5"x.250" DOM
I drilled out the knuckles to accept a 3/4" heim(the big side of the tapered hole was 3/4")
so the tie rod has 2, 3/4"x7/8" shank heims with weld in bungs. and i moved the whole thing above the mounting area(dunno technical term)
The TRE's i had weren't fitting right and i didn't want to play the guessing game and try to bend the tubing w/o a bender, PLUS i REALLY didn't want to bend the drag link, i would rather have a short one.
I saw the bracket PSC made, but didn't like that it was single shear setup, so I made my own double shear bracket out of 3/8" plate. This setup will be gone pretty soon, I'm gonna do cross over steering with a reid racing knuckle and a Ballistic arm. The bracket will probably make for a nice place to mount hydro assist so its staying.
The drag link consists of a 5/8"x3/4" shank heim with regular spacers on the tie rod end. the pitman arm has a 3/4"x3/4" shank heim with high misalignment spacers that bring it down to a 5/8" bolt holding it on.
here's how it looked the first night i drove it. I had some issues with the brakes not bleeding and the PS pump not bleeding either but they got figured out.
First flex
as for the shocks, i have 12" 5125 Bilsteins, and TG shock hoops.
More playing around posing.
before.
after. oh yea, we cut the frame off and welded on a piece of 2x4.250 as a new cross member that the winch and bumper will be attached to. I'll make a new rear cross member outa the same junk.
To Do list.. is endless, but sooner than later
-Cross over steering
-Tires
-Hydro assist
-Gear and lock the 9" + traction bar
-Front shaft
-63s with lift and longer than stock shackles
-2" lift waggy springs
-pull the body lift, after i remount the radiator that will hit the shakcles
-bumpers
-sliders
-chromos
-link the front
Let me know if something is hard to read, i was trying to proofread it but i know there's still some mistakes in there. Enjoy.
Last edited:
