Radiator

[fastpakr]

If you give a mouse a cookie...

 

[Curious Hound]

If you give a mouse a cookie...

I have that book.

 

[97RangerXLT]

I have that book.

David has If You Give A Moose A Muffin. Same author i believe

AJ

 

[James Morse]

I want the 40mm (vs 35mm) t-stat housing, right? I measured the hose diameter it's 46mm so if the hose is 3mm (1/8") thick that would make the outlet 40mm.
More Information for MOTORAD CH5668 (rockauto.com)

Here's the fan clutches. Which should I get? Price doesn't matter much not a huge range it's the time/work involved I want to put decent (but not waste money either)
1997 FORD RANGER 4.0L V6 Radiator Fan Clutch | RockAuto

Already have lower hose, t-stat, and rad cap on the order.

 

[James Morse]

More Information for US MOTOR WORKS MCK1012 (rockauto.com)

sorry, I think the above is what I want unless someone says differently. it includes the water pump along with the fan clutch. makes sense to do it all at the same time as pointed out.

 

[97RangerXLT]

Yep on the 40 mm housing. Found that out the hard way, got the 35mm one and that didnt quite cut it. I got the GMB 9252010 fan clutch and an Airtex water pump. see below for my parts list from Rock Auto.. I am curious what your totals will be here in 2022...

Do note that the water outlet is the wrong one... had to order the right one 4 Seasons 85668 part number...

This was October 4th of 2018. Rock Auto doesn't even carry the Spectra Premium radiator anymore, and they are all now consistently in the 170 dollar range... I also don;t see the lower hose on this bill... must have ordered that later or got it at Autozone.

AJ

 

[97RangerXLT]

More Information for US MOTOR WORKS MCK1012 (rockauto.com)

sorry, I think the above is what I want unless someone says differently. it includes the water pump along with the fan clutch. makes sense to do it all at the same time as pointed out.

that was not an option when I did mine, otherwise I think I would have gone this route as well.

Note, you will need the fanclutch tool (can rent at autozone, but i found that the rental was bent and didn't work for crap) I went ahead and ordered a Sunex 36mm combination wrench from Amazon along with the waterpump holding tool to keep the pulley from spinning. This was actually cheaper than buying the fan clutch tool kit which was very poorly made. they both cost under 20 bucks, the water pump pulley bar was under 2 bucks.

 

[James Morse]

Thanks XLT I will check against mine and let you know items and total once it's hashed out.
Seems reasonable to get the water pump/clutch together if replacing both it would just save a bit of work and maybe money.
I'm going to guess your 'bypass hose' is the lower rad hose? If not probably I want that too.
Also sender I hadn't included that.
Seems sometimes like parts creep but the thing is if other things go wrong (besides rad itself) you have to take stuff apart to at least some degree to get to them so to me it just makes sense to do it all then in theory you don't worry about any of that. As has been suggested.
The only thing so far I see kind of hard is to clean off the nipple on the engine size for the lower hose, no doubt it is crudded on there so just have to get under and clean it up good.
The CU1721 fastpakr found for me on Amazon, $150 including tax (free shipping). That's already ordered.
I'll get these tools thanks very much, would hate to be in the middle of it and find I'm missing a tool.
Upper hose is new Dayco, $18 at Advance. I would have got from Rockauto just I thought that might solve things as it was leaking. But when I fixed that, that was when I was able to see it was also leaking from the rad itself lower down where the hose leak had been running down over it.
Probably is torque setting for the water pump bolts/nuts they aren't huge but lots of them.
Vid I watched said disconnect battery completely and take out. Not sure that's necessary but probably good practice. Maybe it gives more access on that side.

 

[97RangerXLT]

The coolant sensor was to replace the one that pegs to full hot right on start up every so often, so if yours is good, i would not worry about it

AJ

 

[James Morse]

This is what I have in cart right now.
Note there are 2 lower hoses (I think). Continental one is way more expensive than Motorcraft, so I think I can delete the Continental?
Tensioner is in there, no reason to think I need it but wondering if good idea to do at same time?
Replacing serpentine belt also reasonable to do at same time even though other half says "it looks new". If you break a belt you are s.o.l. absent spare and tools.
Would it be smart to do heater hoses at the same time? Or is that just standard off the shelf stuff?
Rubber tends to get crudded up after a while I am just thinking in terms of keeping heater core clean etc. Heat is real good now so core is fine.
Let me know what you think and if I'm missing anything I'd want to do as part of this. Thanks. Will know total once cart is ready but it's going to be more than yours I would bet on that.
Trunk latch not shown so total won't equal parts shown just fyi.

 

[James Morse]

Interesting about the sensor. I asked this the other day, why does fan run high on start up when truck is cold. Not always, sometimes.
So I should definitely get it (sensor) then.
I thought there was a bimetal coil in the clutch ass'y.
Actually I have only a hazy idea how fan speed is determined so sounds like I should read up on it.
EDIT: I don't know if I need the round gasket (first item) ?

 

[James Morse]

Sunex 36Mm Raised Panel Jumbo Combination Wrench 936A (eastwood.com)

I think it's the same thing 936A vs 936 looks the same I think

 

[Josh B]

I thought mine ran fast at start up but that's just noise, the tach stays at idle speeds the entire time.
I think it's just fan clutch noise at start up

 

[James Morse]

OK. Makes sense. Yeah my idle is ok.
Probably will still get it not too pricey considering it all.
What is result if it fails? Fan always runs high?

 

[Josh B]

OK. Makes sense. Yeah my idle is ok.
Probably will still get it not too pricey considering it all.
What is result if it fails? Fan always runs high?

I'm not positive James, but early on with picking up a better looking fan in the yard I made a couple comments maybe and from what I gathered ( which can sometimes be galaxies away ) at the time seemed there is a liquid or jell of some sort within the fan/clutch assembly that makes a bit of noise while warming up