I kind of thought it was something like that. But when I put the shroud on it goes into grooves at the bottom so it can't flop around (and held at top by bolts of course). There wasn't any such thing on the ass'y I took out. Maybe they could go halfway up the sides, I'll check. But it seems totally secure. If there had been those clips, I would have had to take them out to get the shroud loose and I didn't have to do so. I'll check but I'm quite sure the shroud as it sets not cannot go anywhere (meaning, flop backwards at the bottom).
The tensioner was shot for sure, it came apart when I released the tension on it to get the drive belt off.
Side question, belt isn't directional, right? I didn't see any arrows on it.
New tensioner seems ok. It's a fair amount of stress on them, they come apart (when they break) where the outer case is attached to the body of them.
Did not replace bottom rad hose because it looked new and didn't exhibit any symptoms that manual lists to look for to decide if hose needs replacing. And it's a little hard to get to the engine-side clamp on that. After it was all together I questioned whether that was a good call. We'll see.
Turns out draining at rad stopcock doesn't really get out all the fluid to work on it. I mean, I realize about a gallon stays in there after you drain rad. I let it drain all night thinking, this will make it so when I take off bottom hose nothing will come out. Wrong! A sh*tload more comes out, luckily I was ready for it so it didn't go in my eyes.
Then when you take out rad and you may tilt it around a bit to get it out, yet more comes out. Big mess. I figure this is what the big cartons the rad comes in are for, you cut them open and lay under the truck so you're not laying in coolant.
When I tightened tensioner bolt it says 30-40 ft lbs but seemed like about 28 was extremely tight. I was afraid to go tighter. That's on my old torque wrench, I had picked up a new one at H.F., it read even lower, but I think it's bogus.
Anyway regardless of the reading I got it real tight on there I don't see how it could move.
Anyway, it's all buttoned up. One of the worst parts of this job is the cost of coolant. I don't ever re-use drained coolant.
One place to be really careful is threading in the trans cooler connectors. There are labels plastered on the rad, that if you strip the threads, don't send it back. You know how easy it is to carelessly start threading them at an angle. So I just do them by hand feeling and seeing that the threads are taking for a good few turns before I start wrenching on it. I don't know how tight they go by torque, but I put them good and tight, let's say, as tight as I dared. For both of them (the fitting into the rad, and the flare connector to the fitting).
Now to startup, check for leaks anywhere, check coolant consistency, top off. I hope that's all.
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