Radiator

[superj]

when you pulled the hose to replace the clamp, there wasn;t any build up on the hose flange of the radiator? nothing that would present a ridge to keep the hose from sealing properly? it sounds like a crack but the only way to find out is the pull the hose again and look. or, build up in the hose is keeping it from seating properly. was the hose really hard feeling at the clamp area? might have to trim some off so its pliable again

and if you are doing that, might as well get that other hose just so you are ready if this old hose is cracked or bad

 

[James Morse]

no the hose seats all the way to the stops I'm just saying I left like 1/8" there not completely butted so I could see if there was a leak, was it seeming to come from the rad/outlet vs the hose not being sealed
Yeah I completely cleaned the rad outlet looked under w/ mirror, felt it, seems to me like there -could- be a hairline crack at the top but when I feel inside I feel nothing except smooth.
Anyway that's why I intentionally didn't seat it quite all the way was just diagnosis. I looked inside the hose end, I didn't see any deformations or cuts/cracks or anything like that at all.
I'll keep the other hose even though I didn't put it on and probably don't need it. Those hoses are rugged. That said, yeah, new rad hoses are cheap, so why not, then not worry about it.
So I went to the bank (basically looking for excuses to drive it) then went up the hill there is church parking lot part is gravel so I put it in 4x4 and wow, I can feel it pulling the front. Can't wait to try some actual use but need to put this rad thing to bed first.
Anyway, got home, truck has set about 10 minutes, no leaks/drips. Yet anyway. I suppose it could just be hose not sealed good, and if that's all it is, then I'd be lucky.
Time will tell. I'd say if I drove it a week and still didn't see any leaks I'd call it good for now then change out hoses sometime but at least I'd know it isn't rad which, sure, isn't that hard, but it costs.

 

[James Morse]

Still saw a couple drops. But it's definitely not leaking at all where the hose connects. If it is leaking, it's lower down nearer the drain valve.
Yes very hard to chase. It was streaming out at the hose connection, that I know cuz I could put my finger there and feel it running. That's fixed (I think). Totally dry there.
It's possible fluid that was on the rad/assy is still draining off. Or else there is another leak somewhere.
I wiped everything off and no more drops would form so if it is a leak it's really small now. Where I was seeing it drip off was right at the very bottom of the rad you have metal there at the corner. I suppose it could be in the rad itself.
'm nor throwing parts at it, spent $5 on the hose clamps which I won't use so still have them for something else. Sprung for the top hose, but didn't install it and Advance is lie 1/2 mile away so I could return it (probably won't). And some coolant. Probably have $40 in it so far counting everything. Not horrible but it does add up fast.
Rockauto is cheaper on the hoses by half. I just picked that one up in case.

 

[Josh B]

My replacement radiator had plastic end caps, and so did the one it replaced. I don't know if it's an original or replacement but doesn't say fomoco anywhere.

 

[James Morse]

Well I am back to a lot of leaking. Now it still seems to leak at hose connection. I can't be sure about this but it sure looks like it and it's not a trivial amount.
When I say it looks like it leaks there what I mean is it's wet there (again) and it loses a lot of fluid (let's say ounces, not drops) but I can't be absolutely sure it's not say, squirting there from somewhere else.
There could be multiple leaks I just have to go at it as logically as I can based on what I can see.
So I guess the next thing would be put in the new rad hose which I should probably do anyway, and I have the hose. What's the best way to get it unstuck from the water pump connection, maybe use a plastic or wood piece and try to get under it and gently pry apart? Mainly I just don't want to gee up the nipple and not get a good seal on the new one.

The other thing I wanted to ask is about pressure tester. This was mentioned early on, and I hate to get something for one-off use, but, I also don't like getting under the truck when it's running, so I'd be willing to spring for it if you think it will help me to put the system under pressure then I might be able to determine better. Because when the truck is off you don't have the big loss of fluid so it's awful hard to pinpoint it.

Like this one: Carquest Premium Engine Coolant System Pressure Tester 12270 - Advance Auto Parts

It looks like probably it has a gauge so I imagine you pump it to 16 lbs, then start looking for where is the leak.

 

[Shran]

I have had hoses leak in weird places before. One of them leaked out of the cut end of the hose - they are reinforced with little strings and one of those strings protruded into the inside of the hose. When it got hot, coolant would spray through the little cavity where the string was inside the rubber and out the end of the hose. Hard to say what's up on yours.

I use a pair of channel lock pliers to unstick hoses...just grab and rotate a bit. They make a tool that looks like a much larger dental pick that is pretty handy for removing stuck hoses too.

 

[97RangerXLT]

Just cut the hose off if the channellock method doesnt work.

Generally my experience is once you remove an older hose you will not get it to not leak because it is hardened and just dont seal right anymore. My time fighting an older hose is usually worrh the cost of replacing it rather than fighting it, so if it has to come off for any reason and its more than 4 years old it gets replaced.

AJ

 

[James Morse]

Thanks Shran and 97RangerXLT. It could well be something like that. I didn't see that, but, it doesn't take much of an opening for fluid under pressure to come out.
So maybe before I spring for the pressure tester I put that new hose on and see if that helps.
There's only 2 ways it can leak there, bad hose/bad clamp connection or cracked nipple. If I replace the hose and it still leaks I'd have to think cracked nipple - it does have a hairline in it, doesn't seem to go all the way through, but I suppose -if- it's indeed cracked that could be the source.
I don't think the oem clamp is bad, they are strong. I kind of prefer them over the screw-type because at least in theory they are the correct clamping pressure so there's no question (assuming clamp is good) how tight to make it.
Minor point I suppose. I'm just saying that I don't totally rule out a clamp itself problem but having used both type on it I suspect the clamp itself has nothing to do with it.
I have variety of tools like you mention, so I should be able to get the old one loose and clean up the nipple well then put the new hose.
At least it's easy to get to it and I've had the intake off and on so many times now I can do that in 30 seconds.

 

[97RangerXLT]

Another rule of thumb, replace the clamp with a stainless clamp. The old one may feel strong but could be weak, or have corrosion. Or it will corrode soon after putting it on due to getting scratched by the plyers.

Dont chase your tail any more than you have to

AJ

 

[RobbieD]

They make a tool that looks like a much larger dental pick that is pretty handy for removing stuck hoses too.

This is my favorite hose removal tool.

Common name for it is "cotter pin removal tool", but it was better known by radio installers as a "nose picker" (don't ask me why; damned if I know).

Same tool is made in several brands, but the old Craftsman version like this seems to have the best diameter and curve angle, to allow sliding the point in under the rubber, and then sliding the hook sideways around the nipple to unstick the rubber from the metal.

It's actually one of the handiest tools I own. If you ever see one, buy it.

 

[Shran]

This is my favorite hose removal tool.

View attachment 84771

Common name for it is "cotter pin removal tool", but it was better known by radio installers as a "nose picker" (don't ask me why; damned if I know).

Same tool is made in several brands, but the old Craftsman version like this seems to have the best diameter and curve angle, to allow sliding the point in under the rubber, and then sliding the hook sideways around the nipple to unstick the rubber from the metal.

It's actually one of the handiest tools I own. If you ever see one, buy it.

Interesting, that does look real handy. I just bought this one, looks similar, will have to keep my eyes open for a Craftsman ones. I am a slut for tools.

 

[James Morse]

Duh. I just made a nice tapered pry tool from wood which won't scratch stuff.
But I actually have a similar tool. THANKS. pls excuse crummy photo

 

[RobbieD]

Interesting, that does look real handy. I just bought this one, looks similar, will have to keep my eyes open for a Craftsman ones. I am a slut for tools.

The Wilde brand that you linked looks identical, on the business end, to the old ball-handle Craftsman.

And yes, I'm a tool slut too.

 

[RobbieD]

Duh. I just made a nice tapered pry tool from wood which won't scratch stuff.
But I actually have a similar tool. THANKS. pls excuse crummy photo

Yes, that Snap-on version can come in handy for hoses. It's best if the tip is not that sharp, and just go easy with it. When the hose is real old and the rubber is stuck to the metal, wiggle and push the tip in between the rubber and metal. Don't poke through the rubber and don't work it too hard or you can slip and poke yourself real bad (don't ask how I know . . . . ).

The right-angle hooks allow more leverage, but your Snap-on version will work, too.

On real stuck hoses, once the hook is in, I'll put a straw on a can of WD40 and spray it down into the gaps just created beside the hook. Then you just slide the hook sideways around the nipple.

 

[James Morse]

So I put in the new upper hose. Warmed the truck fully and no leaks at either hose connection.
Didn't take me long to get it off with the tool, thanks for pointing that out. You can actually work all the way around inside the hose and keep the tip away from the nipple.
Yeah I can see how you could poke a hole in your hand or the hose. I just keep it kind of flush in there, the shape is correct for the job then you twist/lever it a little in the stuck places. It works real nice.
Pair of hose clamp pliers have paid for themselves about 10x.
Most of the time was cleaning gunk off the water pump inlet pipe. I should probably have swapped the hose day 1.

I think I have pinpointed as well as I can the leak (still leaks). It's right at the lower plastic tab that sticks out to hold the rad. Or just above or below it, but I can see the fluid running down the metal flange (vertical) part of the rad and above the tab it is totally dry.

It has to be completely to temp then is when it starts leaking and it's not a little bit. After you turn off the truck you can still see it coming out that's how I finally found it.
Hose was bad I guess. Have to get it out and run it to really know for sure but it's dry as a bone there now and it was leaking pretty bad before. It was multiple leaks. So I wouldn't have seen the lower leak with fluid running down from above it.

I've heard of trying to bend tabs to tighten it up. But let's say it's original rad (don't know) if it worked 25 years maybe that's asking enough. But obviously if I don't need to spend the money I wouldn't.

There are so many an no one found any metal ones that fit stock truck. Can someone recommend one? I tend to favor Rockauto they are way cheap compared to Advance, usually.
1997 FORD RANGER 4.0L V6 Radiator | RockAuto