Radiator

[sgtsandman]

At this point, it would be better to just get a new radiator.

 

[James Morse]

Agreed sgt our posts crossed I was just saying that in prev post
just need a recommend on the rad
might get rad cap (16 lb) and t-stat also just to have them
I want 190-197F t stat right?

 

[sgtsandman]

Agreed sgt our posts crossed I was just saying that in prev post
just need a recommend on the rad
might get rad cap (16 lb) and t-stat also just to have them
I want 190-197F t stat right?

That is going to depend on the engine but I think yes. My SOHC has a factory 195F thermostat or at least I think that is what it is. Maybe it’s a 192F. Either way, it’s the factory recommended Motorcraft thermostat.

 

[James Morse]

OK. Motorcraft is running like 30 compared to others under 10 but I guess it's nickel-dime for something you really want good so I'll do that.

More Information for APDI/PRO 8011721 (rockauto.com) this is the most expensive one they have, it's 2-1/4" core. Is that better than 2"? They're saying it'll fit.
Usually I go kind of mid range on price like this one
More Information for GPD 1721C (rockauto.com)

 

[James Morse]

I'm pretty sure it's this one More Information for APDI/PRO 8011721 (rockauto.com)
fastpakr said I want 2 rows and mine is 2-1/4" wide and inlet/outlet look in the right places
I see it has trans cooler integral to it I wondered what that was on mine

 

[sgtsandman]

The trans cooler in the radiator is pretty standard on aftermarket radiators. More automatics than manuals out there.

Unless the previous owner installed an external cooler, the cooler is in the radiator.

 

[fastpakr]

CU1721

Spectra Premium believes in a green and sustainable economy. That's why it uses its core competencies of metallurgical transformation, heat transfer and high quality assembly capacity, as well as its extensive expertise, to stand out in the booming vehicle electrification sector in Quebec.

ecat.spectrapremium.com

https://www.amazon.com/Spectra-Premium-CU1721-Complete-Radiator/dp/B000C7TTZ8?tag=959media-20

 

[James Morse]

thanks! pulling the trigger on the Amazon listing, price is very good.

 

[James Morse]

What's the other radiator in front of the regular one?

When I take off trans cooler lines from the old rad, do I have to worry about a lot dripping out, should I plug them, or is it an insignificant amount lost? Seems like if some is in the trans's rad I'd have to add trans fluid after.
But I'd assume there's no bleeding of auto trans cooler lines or anything like that.

 

[fastpakr]

That's the air conditioning condenser.

You don't have to bleed anything. Just try to minimize leaks during the swap and top off the fluid afterwards.

 

[Shran]

You're not going to lose much transmission fluid out of the radiator, maybe a cup or so at most. Keep some rags handy.

 

[97RangerXLT]

Agreed sgt our posts crossed I was just saying that in prev post
just need a recommend on the rad
might get rad cap (16 lb) and t-stat also just to have them
I want 190-197F t stat right?

yes, if you are replacing the radiator, replace the cap and the thermostat. I believe I put a 192* thermostat in mine when I did it. I also replaced the thermostat housing because mine was rusty and crusty looking. added a few bucks to the total cost. Got my radiator from Rock Auto for about 165 bucks in 2018 dollars.

PB blast the transmission lines where they thread into the radiator.... that really was my only issue was getting the lower line unbolted. it was rust seized and I ended up having to cut off the fitting that comes with the radiator by hand and then using a dremel tool on the fitting to split it apart from the transmission line flare nut.

AJ

 

[97RangerXLT]

Also note... when the radiator is out, it is much much easier to access the water pump and fan clutch, and that only adds about 50 bucks to your parts list.... and your fan clutch is likely 25 years old and junk anyways. So once you get it all done, you have basically an all new cooling system with the exception of the heater core and the hoses to it.

AJ

 

[97RangerXLT]

What's the other radiator in front of the regular one?

When I take off trans cooler lines from the old rad, do I have to worry about a lot dripping out, should I plug them, or is it an insignificant amount lost? Seems like if some is in the trans's rad I'd have to add trans fluid after.
But I'd assume there's no bleeding of auto trans cooler lines or anything like that.

as mentioned above, you won't lose much transmission fluid. maybe a cup if that. also the front radiator is the A/C condenser. leave it alone and be careful not to puncture it.

Only 2 bolts hold the radiator to the truck, and two more bolts hold the fan shroud to the radiator, and they are all on top

AJ

 

[Curious Hound]

yes, if you are replacing the radiator, replace the cap and the thermostat. I believe I put a 192* thermostat in mine when I did it. I also replaced the thermostat housing because mine was rusty and crusty looking. added a few bucks to the total cost. Got my radiator from Rock Auto for about 165 bucks in 2018 dollars.

PB blast the transmission lines where they thread into the radiator.... that really was my only issue was getting the lower line unbolted. it was rust seized and I ended up having to cut off the fitting that comes with the radiator by hand and then using a dremel tool on the fitting to split it apart from the transmission line flare nut.

AJ

All this makes sense. You may not have the budget for all of it. But if you do, consider it.

On the other hand, this same line if logic turns into;

When you think about that fresh, clean cooling system, it makes sense to go ahead and rebuild the engine. Throw in a few performance parts. Because, if you have to replace a part, you might as well make it a better part and get more horsepower and torque in the process. But, a freshly rebuilt, higher horsepower engine deserves a rebuilt transmission and transfer case. But, if you do that, it only stands to reason that fresh u-joints would transmit all that power to the differentials more efficiently. Speaking of diffs. Go ahead. Research, rebuild and add lockers. Now you know the whole drive train is ready for action. Don't stop there. You're going to enjoy driving this truck more than ever and want to spend more time in it. Replace the stereo. Get a modern head unit with navigation display, add an amp and better speakers. Don't forget new seats, carpet and headliner. Now's the time to get rid of all the old, moldy, smelly upholstery.and, now that you're driving it more, more people will see it. Spruce up the outside. Fog lights, rock lights, light bar, new paint job. You're proud of this truck. Let it show. Then, put new bumpers and winch on your Christmas list. Lastly, CB radio, GMRS and ham radios so you can stay in touch on trail rides. But wait, you might want to take longer trips. Roof top tent, awning, water storage, built in storage drawers, kitchen, freezer/refrigerator unit....