SEATING the flare nuts on new stainless hard lines...

[fixizin]

... how much crunch/torque? Seen some how-to's that say to tighten and loosen 3-4 TIMES before the final cinch... what say ye, RKIs...??

 

[bobbywalter]

gently

 

[fixizin]

I'm using the little 5" 11mm wrench... can't get too much crazy torque with that... ?

 

[bobbywalter]

I'm using the little 5" 11mm wrench... can't get too much crazy torque with that... ?

i break way too much shit to say no.

 

[fixizin]

So when it just starts to twist the tubing, that's enough? TOO much?... or does it just mean I was supposed to lube the working end of the flare nut?

Durn, hope I haven't hosed muh hard lines... could always RE-flare the ends, right, only lose a couple mm? Pipes came a bit long, had to do a little large radius bending to get the ends to be near-neutral in their fitting holes.

Rained out for tonight, tomorrow I'll bleed the fronts, refill the MC rez, then start bleeding from the right-rear with my $10 ShAmazon hand-vac pump. #LeakCheck

 

[Uncle Gump]

I don't have enough experience with stainless to give you an educated answer.

I would think if they had proper flares just tighten them up like steel line. If they leak... back em off a bit and tighten them again a tad tighter.

 

[bobbywalter]

i have to work with stainless. it sux.

you have a stainless flare tool?

 

[fixizin]

i have to work with stainless. it sux.

you have a stainless flare tool?

I "have" whatever AutoHoes loans out... I notice it mentions only "soft" steel... don't know yet that I'll need it, but... am I "S-O-L"??

PS: is there any type of plastic that's NOT safe to store old brake fluid in? HAZMAT day isn't 'til NEXT weekend...

 

[Curious Hound]

You’re not SOL. Tighten them up “ pretty tight” . About 3/4 of an ugga dugga.

Once you finish bleeding the brakes, clean the fittings and lines with brake cleaner. Dry them off god. Then het in and pump the brakes a few times and hold the pedal down to keep some pressure on. Then go look and see if anything leaked.

I’m with Bobby. I have a tendency to overtighten things and occasionally have to re-fix what I just fixed.

 

[fixizin]

THANKS MUCH!... now, how many TIMES can a flared tube-end be "cinched"? In the near future I'll be doing the rubber "connector" hoses, so one end of each rear-wheel pipe is going to come out, and go back in to the new wye fixture hose...

 

[Curious Hound]

My personal answer to that is “until they won’t seal off any more or until the tubing breaks.” If I lived up north I would add “until they get too rusty.”

 

[sgtsandman]

THANKS MUCH!... now, how many TIMES can a flared tube-end be "cinched"? In the near future I'll be doing the rubber "connector" hoses, so one end of each rear-wheel pipe is going to come out, and go back in to the new wye fixture hose...

We use stainless lines on the aircraft I work on. I've yet to see one fail form too much tightening and reinstalling. Other units and other shops denting or creasing the crap out of them is more often than not the reason we end up replacing most lines. But, those are single flair instead of double. The same principle applies though.

 

[bobbywalter]

you will want a die set for stainless to make flares....preferably a hydraulic unit. mostly i use a type of compression fitting adapting to a/n or jic.....and even that is a pia...

for brake line flares i have something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/LainKeen-Professional-Flaring-Degree-Single/dp/B0BBTFTGZ9/?tag=959media-20

 

[rumblecloud]

ohhhh...that's nice. Immia start making up reasons to get that.

 

[bobbywalter]

if you have stainless brake lines....you have the reason.