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Put 2.3 EFI intake on 2.0?


Yes, I did read the stickies. They say the exact same info I quoted, unfortunately.

Did the truck engines go directly from round port (carb engines, both 2.0 and 2.3) to oversized oval port (EFI 2.3 only), then to the little tiny D ports on the twin-plug heads? That is, the truck engines never received the oversized D ports (a la Turbocoupe)? RockAuto would have me believe there was a big D-port intake used on Rangers, but catalog errors definitely do happen sometimes, especially seeing as I can see OHV 2.3 parts listed under Rangers which is all wrong.

That's what I seem to be getting from everything. If it's true then my "ideal" (if there is such a thing) intake to mate with the 2.0 head is a passenger car 2.3 EFI D-port head, with a gasket to match. I'm only comparing the gaskets to get a clear, easily compared image of the head ports. I can look at pics of the heads all day long, but it isn't easy to put those pics on top of each other like I can with the gaskets.

Revised parts list:
  • Passenger car D-port lower intake, upper intake, throttle body, IAC, vacuum tree, sensors, rail, injectors etc.
  • New intake gasket for the above
  • Intake tube, air cleaner, MAF (90-94 Ranger preferred for routing, car versions unknown, might be fine)
  • 90-94 (if 90-92, must be MAF, vs 93-94 which are all MAF every time) Ranger 2.3 manual trans engine harness, ECM, sensors (sensors can come off whatever, EEC-IV generally used the same ones over time)
    Specifically do not want to use passenger car harness. Ever see the engine harness on a Fox? They suck, gotta take the dash out to get them.
  • Crank balancer/tone ring/pulley assembly from any distributorless EEC-IV 2.3
  • Crank position sensor bracket & bolts from any distributorless EEC-IV 2.3
  • Ignition module, coilpacks, brackets for coilpacks, wires from any distributorless EEC-IV 2.3
  • 85-88 Ranger EFI fuel sending unit with pigtail
  • EFI high pressure in-tank pump
  • Fuel lines off a 2.3 EFI truck, or universal
  • EVTM for the harness donor truck

Updated to-do list:
  • Continue getting opinions on airflow and atomization concerns RE: EFI manifold on 2.0 head - new focus on car D-port instead of Ranger oval port
  • Verify injector aim compared to 2.0 head
  • Figure out PCV/breather via 2.3T valve cover
  • Visually inspect different EGR tube setups (2.0 vs 2.3 in whatever donor vehicle) for comparison

Is this what my life is now?
 
Last edited:
Sounds like it might be best to just look for a 94 engine (or entire vehicle) and grab a 1998 2.5 head to get the best bang or count on doing or having a head port and polish to emulate the 2.5 and maybe toss in a mild racing cam and off to the races...or at least get to work a bit faster than what you have been doing.

I think you should be grateful you haven't been bitten by the turbo bug...:)
 
Sounds like it might be best to just look for a 94 engine (or entire vehicle) and grab a 1998 2.5 head to get the best bang or count on doing or having a head port and polish to emulate the 2.5 and maybe toss in a mild racing cam and off to the races...or at least get to work a bit faster than what you have been doing.

I think you should be grateful you haven't been bitten by the turbo bug...:)

My use of this particular vehicle is not friendly to boost lol. Short trips, rarely up to temperature. Boost with everything cold all the time is not what I understand to be ideal.

In fact that's entirely why my goal is to do as little as possible to get the intended goal. It doesn't matter what engine I use, it IS going to have bad rings if it doesn't already, and it IS eventually going to trash its bearings, and it IS going to milkshake the oil with condensation, and it IS going to be stuffed full of carbon. It's just how it is. I live a 7 minute drive from work.

Whole engine is an ideal solution, but there is literally no way I can know if what I'm getting is good from the junkyard. Then this big circular discussion starts over again about buying a whole donor vehicle, but there are none local to me and if insurance writes one off, it goes to the crusher with little opportunity to save it. There's no good way to do a whole engine. An intake, on the other hand, doesn't go bad, so I'm reasonably assured the stuff I pull in the junkyard for "this" swap is going to work (as individual pieces - as an assembly overall, that is the question).
 
I suppose it's time to post this:

As discussed in another thread, I got my hands on a complete 2.3 which should be a great drop-in option. Accordingly I won't be proceeding with trying to EFI swap the 2.0.

I do hope, however, that the information collected and discussed in this thread will be helpful for someone else who might try to do the same thing. If I come up with any further ideas or info that might contribute to this topic I'll be sure to post them up and I hope others would do the same.
 

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