Project SVT

[RangerSVT]

The radius could have been a little tighter for the opening I had, but I was going off of the tightest radius to bend 2" square tubing, but that was my fault for not measuring, but like I said, I'll take care of that with the new frame....Thanks again for helping out with this build
SVT

 

[RangerSVT]

Got some more work done today, but not as much as what I wanted No action shots as I'm working solo, so I only have a few shots to keep as much progress going as possible...I got the other hoop mounted, needed to do some more trimming on that side, but was smoother than the driver side....I didn't trim the plate to the contours of the frame, i just burned them on...I might trim it later when I get a plasma cutter in my hands, or maybe when the new frame comes I also started on my frame link mounts...Damn it sucks cutting brackets with a cutoff wheel Anyways, it took longer than I thought fabbing the brackets. I got one side done, and got the passenger brackets fabbed, but didnt get them on the frame. I got the driver side on the frame, but I need to get some bolts as the ones I have are too long. I also need to fab a new trans crossmember as the factory one got in the way. I designed it so I could bolt the bracket through the frame to itself, then attach the trans crossmember to the protruding threads...I wanted to get my link bars fabbed up today and that was my stopping point, but I fell short of that goal, but not by much. I've got my motorvation back to get on this and get it done. I hope to have it on its shoes by this weekend's end

SVT

 

[COPPERHEAD85]

Thought you would have that pig done by now.
Getting slow in your old age bro.

 

[RangerSVT]

Update...Finally With Progress I only had about 3/4 of the day to work on SVT, but I'm happy with the progress I got today. Still need to get some link mount frame brackets, tracbar frame and axle mount, relocate the fuel tank, battery, get some hydro hoses made, getting to the little stuff. I got my upper and lower link bars fabbed and installed, lower link bar mounts fabbed and installed, shock tabs burned on and shocks mounted...On with a couple of pics....
I decided to use a different tool for cutting my steel today (got tired of using the cutoff wheel)...

Made my own tubing notcher...

Lower link bar mounts installed...

Shock tabs burned on, they are 3/8" thick, so they shouldn't go anywhere. I wanted to mount them on the top of the hoop, but I ordered the wrong tabs and made the shocks contact the lower portion of the hoop...

Lower link bars mounted...

I know it's hard to tell, but the front axle is moved forward about 5.5"...

Upper link mounts....I need to get some frame brackets so I can attach the uppers to the lowers...

Air shocks mounted. I just have them temporarily mounted as once I get my tracbar frame and axle mounts burned in, and my upper link mounts burned, I need to disassemble everything to paint...

I plan to move the axle back about a 1/2" as the shock is real close to the engine crossmember. It's not touching right now, but its real close and may contact when stuffed. The axle is also sitting to the passenger side, so getting the axle centered will also help with clearance...

Passenger side shot of the shocks mounted...

Here are the engine bay shots of the shock hoops. Still need to fab my shock hoop crossover bar...

Thats all for today. Got a good bit done today. This weekend (if I have time, might be starting school and will have to travel to Utah ) plans are to remove the fuel tank, assemble the steering components. Going to try to get it out of the shop, will most likely use ratchet straps to hold the axle centered to move it around... At least the 60 is finally in. After researching and making decisions to change decisions that were made from other decisions, I finally know what I'm going to do for a rear axle. I will be running a 9" center with full custom inners and outers, just got to collect some cash for that axle. I think it will be the most expensive part of the build, at around $1800 without brakes...
SVT

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Looking good! I'm wondering why on the radius arm the longer link is on bottom? Wouldn't it give slightly more ground clearance if it was on top? Or is it that way for clearance on the frame?

Richard

 

[RangerSVT]

It serves 2 purposes...If it was on top, it would contact the frame when flexed out, and it also serves as a skid plate if it ever contacts the rocks, although it shouldn't with almost 2 whole feet of clearance from the ground...
SVT

 

[disciplerocks]

Looking good. Nice progress.

 

[Robert_1967]

If you haven't stated on the rear axle, and it's going to be a custom set up, make it in to a rear steer axle ....should be fun on the trails, and make it easier to get around some trees.



Robert

 

[kris97ranger]

all of this sounds like you needed rockwells.... ive seen people narrow them. especially since you keep hinting it like 47s or somthing

 

[CHKNFKR]

You need a ton of real estate for the chunks. Tons are way more practical. This is coming from the guy building a pair of 5ton steer rockwells to tuck under a ranger....

 

[RangerSVT]

If I went rocks, it would be way taller than I could use it for, the trails I run are not only narrow, but have height restrictions as well, and I don't need or want a convertible...
SVT

 

[kris97ranger]

I know you've made your choice but now im curious im almost positive ive seen either tons or unimog axles with rockwell outers. dunno which shafts get used though

 

[RangerSVT]

I've seen unimog (portal) outers, the reduction boxes, mounted to 60's. I thought about this as it would tuck the diff 5 inches higher into the chassis, but I'm close to the chassis now, plus with the tires I'll be running, I feel thats too much load that will be put on the knuckles. As it is I'll be expecting weak points to show up in the front...
SVT

 

[Bray D]

Pics at full bump? Why radius arm over 3 link? Is there clearance issues at full bump, hence the short uppers? Right now, your uppers are creating the absolute maximum bending moment possible on the lower link (mount right in the middle of the link). Though it probably won't matter, it's the worst posible position to put them, design wise.

Regardless of your axle location, your shocks are going to be tipped the wrong way (judging by the pic). It's going to encourage body roll.

It'll be interesting to see how the frame mounts hold up as well.

Hurry up and get it done.

 

[Kyle M.]

Pics at full bump? Why radius arm over 3 link? Is there clearance issues at full bump, hence the short uppers? Right now, your uppers are creating the absolute maximum bending moment possible on the lower link (mount right in the middle of the link). Though it probably won't matter, it's the worst posible position to put them, design wise.

Regardless of your axle location, your shocks are going to be tipped the wrong way (judging by the pic). It's going to encourage body roll.

It'll be interesting to see how the frame mounts hold up as well.
Hurry up and get it done.

I agree. I would relocate your shock hoops in a little toward the motor or move your lower mounts out, maybe onto the C. It would help you with frame clearance. Once you put a track bar on you will swing the axle more to the one side and you might have issues with your shock hitting the frame.

The frame mounts, I would suggest a couple of rosset welds. With the size of the plate I feel the leverage put on it by the hoop can pull it off the frame in the center of the plate and over time weaken the whole get up.

My .02 cents

Build looks good, I am enjoying some of your engenuity. Keep it up!