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Problems with lack of power


Reed,

I just listened to your 2 clips. That is A LOT of valve noise for a freshly rebuilt 2.9L. If you are certain that your engine is 100% correct in respect to cam/crank, I would do 2 things:

1) after completely warmed up, turn it off, disconnect the spout and advance the timing until the value stops increasing and just flutters before begining to lower in value. This is the process to get maximum vacuum.

2) Then with your engine at normal operating temperature, I would perform a rocker arm adjustment!
Gaz- Maybe the volume was up a bit high on the videos. I will attach a new short video as I don't hear much in the way of valve train noise (ie: lash). I hooked up the vacuum gauge and removed the SPOUT connector; the idle went down as expected. I moved the distributor until I got a max of only 14" and it just began to 'flutter'. Locked down the clamp and replaced the SPOUT connector; except this time there was no rise in idle speed as before and actually a slight decrease instead. There is so little room back there it's almost ridiculous. I am limited in rotation to either hitting the TFI on the firewall or a part of the distributor case up against the last injector connector! But I don't seem to be able to get above 14" no matter. Please listen to this new video and tell me what you hear. I certainly hate to tear things down to do a valve adjustment if I don't need to (of course!). (Sorry but having download issues with the short videos!)
 
Dirtman- 'no cigar', but thinking about smoking something! :ROFLMAO:
LOL. It hasn't driven me to drinking or other recreational analgesics but I've told the wife many times that I should set the BII on fire, it would save us lots of money.
 
When engine is STONE COLD, remove fan belt from crank pulley
Start engine
With no fan and no accessories engine bay will be quiet
Listen to valve train now

You can ONLY RUN THE ENGINE for 1 maybe 2 minutes without a water pump, so be quick about it

On a rebuilt 2.9l it should be VERY QUIET
 
Jerry. The plastic adapter that goes from the vacuum hose into the rubber grommet has a check valve in it so it can't 'bleed' in that direction. I also crimped it down with no change in the vacuum reading.
I believe that the valve is there to prevent high pressure from damaging the brake booster, such as a backfire.
 
I believe that the valve is there to prevent high pressure from damaging the brake booster, such as a backfire.

Its a Check valve, its there to hold vacuum in the booster in case engine should stall while driving, the size of the booster should hold enough vacuum in reserve for 3 power assisted brake pedal presses to stop the vehicle safely
Test if it working by shutting engine off and then press brake pedal 3 times, should get harder to press after the 3rd time

If pedal is hard to press sooner then booster or check valve is leaking
 
I replaced the hose, check valve and grommet for the booster, and while it was running I checked for leaks by closing the hose off. I also used brakekleen at all hose locations and intake manifold gaskets as well. The brakes are all new, right down to the springs for the shoes. When I did attempt to drive it up the street the brakes worked properly. I went down and talked with the rebuilder and he said he'd call an old Ford mechanic he knew and see if he would come by to take a look at it for me. No call back yet but I am hoping he'll be able to pick out something that I'm missing. I have advanced the timing as far as I can and still have it start; but vacuum only went to 14". He also said the cam/crank timing could be double checked so I think I will tear things back apart and make certain it's correct. I do have a lot of faith in the rebuilder for both his experience and knowledge as well as his ethics. He's been able to answer any questions I've had for him; he even gave me a technical bulletin from Ford concerning intake manifold problems on this engine. All mating surfaces including the exhaust and intake manifolds were also checked and sanded for flatness. For today, it is back to the vacuum routing on the old 454 one ton dually! Thanks guys! This one will get solved!!!
 

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