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PlumCrazy's F-1Fiddy Build


Going to look at tomorrow.... If it checks out OK...I'll buy it first thing after Christmas...

Sent from XT907 using Crapatalk
 
Picked up a few small things over the new year transition.

Scored a driver front fender, now I just need a passenger and its time to prep for paint.
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I also snagged an 80's Ford Premium Sound radio. It has a built in amp and is setup to run 4 speakers. It also lights up the aqua color that matches the rest of the truck. I didn't however lose my clock by stepping back to the older radio.
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I also picked up a factory 80-86 clock, but it has a dead cell and on that one go out on the last digit....
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I have a better one on the way now though.

A buddy of mine had these minty blue visors stashed away for me too.
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They are 87+ so they are vinyl like mine, but have provisions for the clip on the end. No more droopy visors for me!

Down the road I would like to find a donor car and get the climate control working in a Bullnose truck too...
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I did something in the garage again! That's twice in one week. Things might get done soon.lol JKjkjk somehow I will manage to get zilch done.

Anywho. Put the new visors in. Already glad I did.lol I am OCD about them being straight and folded up, and the old style with no clip was driving me nuts. They would droop and wiggle.

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(New on left old on right)

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Decided to start putting the ZF back together so I can get the swap underway.lol

I pulled it apart to swap tail housings to add a speedo cable. The bearings look pretty goo, so I planned on reusing them. The counter shaft bearing cup/race is pressed into a blind hole, which makes extraction fun. The case has 3 relief cuts for the jaws of an internal puller....simple enough..until I saw the price tag for an OTC puller that size.

So I came up with this guy. The center section/hub is just a 1/2-13 coupling nut with tabs welded on. I put a few holes in the tabs to allow for some adjustment for different diameters. Ideally the slide hammer would work better if the rod was longer and only threaded where it needed to be. It was hard to slide the weight fast enough to get a good smack. Cost me zilch and worked like a charm.
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While I have the two housings stripped down, I am going to take them into work and use the FARO arm to see if I will need to add or remove any shims. this way I wont have to assemble and check the play and repeat.lol I can just measure the Z between the mating surface of the housing and the the shoulder where the race sits.

FYI..heres a link to what a FARO arm is. They are pretty kick ass.
http://www.faro.com/products/metrology/faroarm-measuring-arm/overview
 
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Made progress on this truck too!

The ZF is assembled and ready to rock, I measured the rear covers and found both covers to be within .002” of each other, so no shimming required. New seals on both ends and reassembled with the new rear cover.
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I made an adaptor for my slide hammer to attach it to a pair of visegrips to yank the expansion plugs out for the detents.
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See my Ranger build for other updates..
 
So I kind of told a little fib when I said the ZF was ready to rock....I actually still needed to tap in new plugs for the detents.lol They finally showed up yesterday after waiting for USPS to get their shit together.lol
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They are 10mm plugs which are actually tough to find anywhere local, most places stop at 12mm and the smaller ones are all standard sizes. I wanted to tap them to 1/8 NPT, but 10mm is too big to tap out. I ended up ordering them through Cobra Transmission (they are awesome as I have explained to everyone before.lol)...they were 99 cents.lol I bought a few extra just incase...go thing I did.

First one I put it tapped in way easier than expected and went .25" too deep on the second tap of the 8 oz hammer. So I had to drill it and get out the trusty slide hammer. I got the next three in no problem, but they went in soooo easy I was worried the spring could push them back out overtime with use and heat cycles. So I took a little chisel and distorted the case a tad to make sure the plug cant push out. I didn't get too crazy, so I think the plugs can still be removed if needed later for service.
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I also got a good working clock for the truck, but I am yet to install it. Bought it on Ebay..showed up and it was no good, wouldn't power on. Messaged the seller..he sent me another one next day. Works great and was a seamless transaction even with the hiccup. Some sellers still know how to get things done apparently.
 
Not a whole lot going on with this truck lately. I did score a NOS Ford passenger fender though. I should be set for the body man when I get some pennies together. I have a rust free bed, two rust free fenders, and a mint core support. I want to POR 15 the core support around the mounts and then bolt up the new fenders loosely before I haul it to the body man. I do still need a front bumper, but I can get things rolling with out it at least.
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Updates..

Scored a decent OEM bumper
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And....started the ZF swap.

Pulled seat and flooring...marked and cut the hole...bolted the cover on.
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Then pulled column and pedals. Took a while, but I was able to frankenstein a non tilt/no cruise MT column and my tilt/cruise AT column together for a shiftless tilt/cruise setup.
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relocated the pin on the brake for the hydroboost pushrod...which caused issues with the cruise control vaccum valve striker...I fabbed up one out of steel and tacked it on
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Swapped the PRNDL out for the block off
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hydroboost installed...no lines yet. Had to add .030" to the pushrod, but the bolt pattern lined right up. I plan to ugrade to the aluminum 92-97 master when I go 8 lug.
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Looks more like a truck already...
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Once the ZF and Hydroboost is done....Im pulling front clip, replacing the exhuast manisfolds, preping and installing new core support and fenders and bed.......then paint.

Then its 8 lug time and then loooow....then done.
 
Tonight Im going to try and get the C6 out and maybe get the ZF in. After that its just loop the NSS and slice on the reverse switch pigtail...driveshaft, and put the interior back together.
 
Your a pretty smart cookie, and I don't mean to go off topic, But do you know if I could use a electronic water temp gauge to read the auto transmission fluid temp on my little BII ?


I really value your input and have been following all of your builds.





Robert




posted using a Dish DVR, and two long cables.
 
I don't see why not, I have an Autometer trans temp gauge I'll send your way for shipping cost... (Pictured above)

Sent from my XT907 using Crapatalk
 
How much would shipping be to 37890??



Robert




posted using a broken florescent light bulb and a air compressor.
 

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