please help, is this truck trying to kill me ?

[a31ford]

"Permatex" "Anti-Seize" (copper version will do) on the threads of the bleeders and the line nuts, will make it easy to take apart next time. (I would also coat the line where it goes into the line-nut, so they do not rust there, as well).

Greg

 

[Andy D]

"Permatex" "Anti-Seize" (copper version will do) on the threads of the bleeders and the line nuts, will make it easy to take apart next time. (I would also coat the line where it goes into the line-nut, so they do not rust there, as well).

Greg

The Rat is rusted to a fare thee well underneath. I ended up replacing all the hard lines and most of the hoses. I had a 1 pound jar of brake grease with a brush in the lid. Every fitting I made up , I greased. Bolts, hardware. Any fasteners, I have taken apart and put together is either new or wire brushed and oiled.

I also am experimenting with coating the rusty frame rails with linseed oil. It creates an airtight coating when it dries. Which takes ages. Seems to be working a year later.

 

[combover]

Bummer.....I removed the door panel to work on the electric window switch and motor .....found mold behind the door panel .....I did some searches on the internet regarding car mold and found out that I am very sensitive to mold .....and have all of the symptoms that they speak of ! And its not good at all ....sucks because I really dig this little Bronco and don't think I will ever be able to completely get rid of that problem I.....probably not that big of a deal to somebody who is not sensitive to the mold ....

 

[PanamaExpat]

Get one of those garden pump up sprayers... Mix a 50% solution of Clorox and water up and spray the insides of the doors. Let it sit about 30 minutes and repeat. Will KILL the mold. Then hose it out with the garden hose. Wear rubber gloves and a respirator. Here in the tropics car mold is a very common thing. If it is external mold use a disinfectant like Lysol on it so you don't ruin the upholstery.