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please help, is this truck trying to kill me ?


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valve cover gasket



there are about 10 pages of threads for help... pick one.

Greg
 
Cool, Thanx ! I read a bunch of posts and some say to u se sealer and Some say to not use sealer, I have black permatex ....thin layer both sides of gaskets ?
 
That's what I did.
 
Wow....you had to do the head gaskets too ?

It wasn't related to the burning smells in the cab, it just so happened that they failed I had the gaskets and the valve covers weren't holding any oil inside the engine, the engine was changing its own oil as I was driving. So when it went in for the head gasket failure I had all the gaskets on the top end replaced since it was torn apart anyways. Now I'm working on the lower end plus a new Master Clutch Cylinder this coming week. All I really want is my Bronco 2 back so I can drive it LOL. One thing after another lately so I haven't seen my Bronco 2 for about a month now.
 
Hey man, in the last year I have approx 12 months of combined time where either my Ranger or my BII were not road worthy. Just keep popping parts at it. Remember to bench bleed the master.
 
this truck has been sitting for a little while, a few years actually before I bought it, One of the brake calipers is dragging the brakes a little bit I was going to replace the rubber lines upfront and was thinking about rebuild ing the calipers or replacing the calipers ....is replacing the old Calipers a better idea ?
 
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Replace them. They're cheap. If the truck has been sitting that long, this isn't much of a surprise. I got my truck after it had been sitting around for a long time and I had to replace mine too. If you're going to replace the lines (good idea) make sure and get a fitting wrench. Mine were a bear to take apart and I was worried about rounding the hex off on the hoses.
 
I bought rebuilt calipers from Auto Zone I was pissed, but I quit before I sheared the bleeder. I normally just take the caliper apart , clean it up and put it back together with Sil Glyde After giving them the old ones , they cost 20 $ each.

When I am repairing something , I take stuff apart like I'm going to re-use it. I break that rule when doing brake lines. I cut the line flush with the fitting and use the right sized 6 point socket on it. Chinese line wrenches will spread . I'm not about to buy a set of pro rated line wrenches when there is an easy work around using what I have on hand. I dont do brake lines until they break so I don't do them often enough to spend the money for special tools. :D
 
Thanx Andy for that ...cut the brake line and use a socket tip ! I am going to try changing them and the calipers this weekend....
 
I frequently have been known to take the acetylene torch to the brake line and bleeder nuts when they are frozen. Plan on kitting them afterwards. There have however been those few times where that doesn't even work and I end up buying new calipers or wheel cylinders anyhow.

Cherry red good.... Sunset orange even better.
 
Another place they leak oil is where the heads meet the block under the intake manifold in the valleys. Clean both sides good with acetone ar gas and blow it dry. Some use silicone RTV I prefer permatex, put a bead on both ends of the intake manifold and with your finger squish it into the valleys if you do it right it will form a plug on the inside of the valley to stop those leaks. While you have the breaks off repack the wheel bearings with fresh grease and put in new seals just for giggles. If you dont know how old the PCV is replace it and make sure the breather is working correct. Excess blowby will make a small leak bigger.
 
I have just hand tools, no acetylene , no welder, no air, no garage.Almost like a real mechanic, except slower, waaaay slower. :D
 
I have just hand tools, no acetylene , no welder, no air, no garage.Almost like a real mechanic, except slower, waaaay slower. :D

I worked on stuff many many years without any of those things too.... I am SO thankful I have them now... Along with a 4.5 and 7 inch angle grinders.
 

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