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One more 2wd 98 coil spring 5.0 swap.


Beautiful! Love the way the rims make the truck look...

SVT
 
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Beautiful! Love the way the rims make the truck look...

SVT

I wasn't sure at first but I am starting to think they will look good once the tires are mounted.
 
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I wasn't sure at first but I am starting to think they will look good once the tires are mounted.
Wow your truck is really looking good! i noticed you did a flip (axle on top of leaf springs)in the rear are you using stock springs on the front or are they lowered springs?
 
Wow your truck is really looking good! i noticed you did a flip (axle on top of leaf springs)in the rear are you using stock springs on the front or are they lowered springs?

I used a flip kit on the rear with the optional shackles. However the shackles are not yet installed in the photos. I have three sets of OEM front springs, stock height, 1 inch drop (cut), and 2 inch drop (cut). Right now the two inch springs are installed and I am waiting to see what they look like when the wheels and tires are installed. At that point I will decide what to do with the back, install the DJM shackles or use the OE shackles for another 1 inch drop in the back. If needed I will "adjust" the front height by cutting the springs a little more to match the back. However, I will probably wait to make final adjustments until the bed is installed as it will drop the truck slightly from the weight.
 
Today I measured for the oil filter adapter hoses, 2 hoses, 26 inches per hose flange to flange. I decided to go with the “OVER KILL” option! The hoses and fittings I picked out are rated to 3000 psi and are flame resistant. It took Hoses and Hydraulics Inc. about 8 minutes to build them to my specs and I was out the door with the custom pieces in hand. I have had the normal oil lines on these kits fail in the past and wanted something that was worry free for years to come.





I checked the clearance and as I thought the body mount bracket had to be trimmed on the front side. I wanted to make sure the hoses had plenty of room to move slightly with the engine and would not chafe against the sharp edges of the bracket.



Then I attached the oil filter hoses to the remote adapter and routed them under the frame and over the top of the lower radiator hose and up to the adapter on the engine. They fit perfect and really don’t even need any ties to be held in place. The hoses are firm and maintain their position with very little movement.









 
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I still can get over this build. Could you do me a solid. Next time you got the camera out snap a few photos of the engine mounts im still havine issues with mine...
 
I still can get over this build. Could you do me a solid. Next time you got the camera out snap a few photos of the engine mounts im still havine issues with mine...

I can do that. Any particular view?
 
Here's the pair on my '02:

Right side: Had a lot of trimming to do getting the TM's to clear.

Right_plate_zps84d99ccd.jpg
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Left side:

Left_plate_zps7cbb3d03.jpg
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Do those slots go to the front or the back, been wondering. Think the plate should have raised the motor, not dropped. Several have had to use spacers to raise it for clearance for suspension or oil pan.
Dave



Right_plate_zps84d99ccd.jpg
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Do those slots go to the front or the back, been wondering. Think the plate should have raised the motor, not dropped. Several have had to use spacers to raise it for clearance for suspension or oil pan.
Dave

The engine & trans are as far forward as the slots in the plates will allow. With the TM headers, the rear bolt on the right side is essentially impossible to access!

With the FRP rear sump oil pan I'm using, I did have to shim under both plates to clear the rack and pinion. To do it over again, I'd wait until I found a used late Expo steel pan and then raise the front of the pan to just clear the bottom of the oil pump. Would make needing shims under the engine plates a non-issue.
 
The engine & trans are as far forward as the slots in the plates will allow. With the TM headers, the rear bolt on the right side is essentially impossible to access!

With the FRP rear sump oil pan I'm using, I did have to shim under both plates to clear the rack and pinion. To do it over again, I'd wait until I found a used late Expo steel pan and then raise the front of the pan to just clear the bottom of the oil pump. Would make needing shims under the engine plates a non-issue.

My set up is pretty much identical to what is described above. I shimmed under both sides of the engine plates to lift the engine enough for the steel oil pan to clear the rack. The Torque Monster headers do require some modification to the rear of the right side plate to clear. My engine is all the way forward on the plates and the right side plate does lower the engine so it sits level with the left side. The photos above do depict the correct orientation.
 
The four new 275/55/17's were dropped off by UPS today. When I arrived home I loaded the new tires and wheels into the 98 Ranger and headed up to Auto Dynamics in Largo to have them mounted and balanced. I should have them on the 99 Ranger Friday evening. I can't wait to see what they look like on the truck.

 
I could not wait until Friday. I decided to pick up my wheels and tires a little early and mount them on the Ranger. They are probably a little taller than most would like but that was the look I wanted. I didn’t want it to look like a truck with Mustang wheels. I wanted to maintain the truck look with a lower, tighter suspension. I think the 275/55/17’s fill the wheel well nicely.







It is a little hard to get an exact idea without the bed mounted but I think the amount of drop on both the front and rear will be pretty close to what I am looking for. I am sure the weight of the bed will push the back down slightly and probably raise the front just a little.













 

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