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Ok, need MASTER level advice or VERY creative ideas.


I don't have much time to work on it during this week or weekend...but I do have Sunday off and I got a very interesting Idea to try out and some parts from a friend to try out. So until Sunday I will not have any updates. :sad:
 
You've got an awful lot movement showing with that clutch pressure plate backing. look for a gap between the engine and bellhousing. If theres no gap you may have that much crank play or you need to tighten the clutch plate bolts. I would say everything else is fine.
 
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Just a thought, but when you've had everything together and been able to start your truck in neutral, have you pushed the brake pedal and the clutch pedal at the same time? For some reason, my owner's manual says that the brake pedal has to be depressed before you shift into gear. The only thing I can think of is that since the brake booster takes vacuum, and the brake switch is activated, it allows, somehow, the engine to slow the RPMs up enough to where it's easier to engage in gear.

When I replaced my 2.3L, and I had the problem of not being able to get my truck into gear, it was only after finding out about the brake pedal needing to be depressed that my truck wouldn't move.

Lastly, when you have the truck in neutral, and it's started, can you shift in between first gear and reverse? That would be indicative that the slave cylinder isn't allowing the clutch to release. If you get grinding as you try and put it into gear, then it would be indicative of either the slave cylinder piston not acting from fluid pressure, as I've said before, or it could be that the throwout bearing isn't properly lubricated. For fixing the lubrication issue, put some high-temp grease on the inside of the throwout bearing, as well as on the face.

Lastly, the only other thing I'm finding it could be is that the clutch plate (disc) is either warped or damaged, which I'm thinking is that it's probably damaged or broken.
 
Did the Fly wheel stay the same for all 4.0's or did they change it?
 
I'm pretty sure it stayed the same. It's different for the SOHC motors, since they had 8 bolt cranks...

SVT
 
I think its time to back pedal because it was fine one minute and a one minute later it was giving you problems, most of the time when things start to go because there wore out they start to give a symtom, in this case not, I think with every thing you have done its time to look at other things, one thing of note and may not apply here is on some later models that have a anti drain valve in the line fitting to the slave there is a service line from ford that doesnt have this valve, its there so that when you pull the line fliud wont leak out and drain the master, some times it wont recenter its self, and wont allow the system to bled out completely
 
I think its time to back pedal because it was fine one minute and a one minute later it was giving you problems, most of the time when things start to go because there wore out they start to give a symtom, in this case not, I think with every thing you have done its time to look at other things, one thing of note and may not apply here is on some later models that have a anti drain valve in the line fitting to the slave there is a service line from ford that doesnt have this valve, its there so that when you pull the line fliud wont leak out and drain the master, some times it wont recenter its self, and wont allow the system to bled out completely

Actually, Ford redesigned the clutch line to have the valve you're talking about. When I replaced all of my components on my truck, and installed the new line, it has built-in a spring-loaded valve to keep the fluid from leaking out when the line is disconnected. Basically, it's supposed to be a quick-disconnect, similar to the fuel lines Ford uses. What the tech or repair person is supposed to do is push in on the line until you can hear/feel a "click." This signifies that the line is in all the way. However, you cannot use the newer design with the older slave cylinder fitting, as the older design uses an R-clip and metal "fingers" on the inside of the fitting. What you need to use the newer-design fitting is to get a slave cylinder that has a smooth bore (no metal fingers). If you have a slave cylinder that still works and doesn't leak, you can use a center punch to knock out the roll pin and install the newer slave cylinder fitting, so that you can use the newer-designed hydraulic line. I'm thinking that when the OP put in the line, he kinked it somehow, restricting the fluid flow.
 
LADIES AND GENTLEMEN WE FINALLY HAVE PROGRESS! I can Not tell you what was broke but I can tell you this...I GOT THE CLUTCH TO DISENGAGE! I put in a WHOLE new 94 Hydraulic system (Everything all the way to slave cylinder) had to do some "Minor" modification to put the master in... SHIMMED the fly wheel .089 forward... and after a few pumps.. IT DISENGAGED! So at this point...I'm jumping for joy...I still got to put the dash back in and make a few more fixes but this is BY far the furthest progress I have made in weeks lol... I don't have much time to work on it when it gets dark at 5 pm and I get home at 5:30... And I work everyday but Sunday... but i hope tomorrow i can finish putting everything back together and fire her up and make sure I can shift into gear with the engine on! But this is the first time I was able to disengage the clutch PERIOD since the day it all took place.
 
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Woohoo! Been following this one very closely and I'm glad you made some progress. ...congrats...
 
Good for you !
 
It not over yet! I still have to make sure that when the truck on I can fully disengage it to put it in gear...but when I disengage it with the engine off I can roll my truck while in gear and when i lift off the clutch it rock solid... and unmovable...so far so good.
 
you know i had a prob like this on an f250 when the trans bolts were tight, but the trans wasnt flush, a line had gotten pinched between block and bellhousing....
 
Still have not had time to put truck back together with work and this COLD and rainy weather...
 
It alive. I can finally drive it again and have a good feeling clutch.
 

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