Ok, need MASTER level advice or VERY creative ideas.

[cocoasranger]

This might help. Ranger clutch master cylinders come in different bore diameters, and therefore have different travel. Let me refer you to an AllenD post

AllanD
07-11-2008, 01:36 PM
The smaller bore diameter master cylinder was used '93-up

the smaller bore (early) master cylinder used '93-94 will not "play well"
with the early aluminum slave which requires more fluid volume movement
to work correctly.

the Early master cylinder when used with the late (plastic) slave gives a
vary "quick" clutch actuation at the expense of higher pedal effort.

the two master cylinders can easily be distinguished because the early one mounts directly to the firewall.

the '93-94 master is bayonette mounted into a metal "cup" that is bolted to the firewall.

the '95-up master passes through the firewall and is bayonetted (different size) directly into a mounting "Ear" on the pedal support bracket.

 

[American1990]

I've almost completely lost all hope for it, it just seems it will never run again. I have tried so many things and replaced so much and yet something so stupid is keeping me for driving it.

It is physically impossible to press the rod by hand into the master cylinder and every trick I've used to increase the pivot point has failed. The only thing left to do is remove the whole dash figure out how to take the pedal off and weld on another nipple higher it connect the rode there, and idk even know if that my problem that I'm not getting enough stroke from master.

And on top of that the M5OD I have from a 1996 ranger so I was going to get the stuff for that year but the mounting for the Master different so idk even know what i will need to adapt that...

the worst part about it is that i cant turn to a real mechanic because when i tell them that I did a motor swap and it a different trans they just shun me away and want noting to do with me, also idk what they can do differently then what i have already done, like I said I've replaced everything but the engine. I've had couple buddies who are mechanic look and they just say the same things, slave cylinder and bled and nothing else.

the biggest thing i can not understand is The WHOLE truck ran fine with FM146, and 1992 clutch kit, slave, and 1989 master. Then it just stop working, even after replacing ALL the parts with EXACT same setup still does not work. idk....

 

[Mac]

So it did run just fine and then just stopped working? Sounds like the combination of parts did work at one time. Both posts 15 & 21 mention the same symptoms caused by caused by the clutch/brake bracket gone bad, that might explain the sudden happenings. You got a real stumper here.
Dave

 

[RangerSVT]

The 4 brake booster bolts pass through the clutch/brake pedal bracket. Remove these 4 bolts and maybe a 5th bolt up top, remove the pedal assembly for inspection/repair. Like Dave and I said, its probably in the pedal assembly...

SVT

 

[American1990]

Alright...I am going to remove the dash so I can get a clear view of everything, i swear it sucks being over 6 foot and trying to fit myself in that single cab to look under the dash... I'm going to take the dash out and inspect everything and see if I can get it to disengage manually.

 

[cocoasranger]

Before you tear out the dash check out post #31 again. If you have an aluminum slave cylinder it takes more pedal travel to release the clutch than it takes with a plastic slave cylinder. I would check which slave you actually have before pulling the dash. can't hurt to check.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Maybe you could put a shim between the flywheel and crank?

 

[American1990]

removed the whole dash to inspect the bracket and everything. Everything under the dash is working properly no cracks, bends, dents, nothing. I even pushed the master in as far as it could possibly go and still nothing. The Slave moved slightly further forward but still not enough. I can see the slave push the pressure plate and the pressure plate pull back slightly. As for what kind of slave, aluminum I think, idk I have 5 or 6 slave cylinder of different configurations for the ranger. Tried them all still same no matter what, I see no play in the crank either, it just so irritating that every individual parts looks and acts fine but when i put it all together perfectly right it does not work, and matter what i replace, what I fix, what i do, nothing changes.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Estimate the distance between the throw out bearing and the pressure plate and then shim the flywheel out that distance.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1993-Ford-Ranger-4WD/Flywheel-Shims/_/N-izrifZ6o2z2
They come in .025 and .050 at autozone

 

[Andy D]

Hook up everything. Bleed it. Have some body pump the pedal while you watch the bell housing. You are looking for a crack to open up because the bell housing bolt threads are stripped in the block. Something is using up the throw of the clutch. On a hydraulic clutch, that usually is a lack of pressure from the fluid bypassing something it should be moving, or air in the line. Multiple parts swaps should have eliminated a faulty pressure plate and clutch disc. Increased crank shaft end play would hammer out the front seal, before it messed up the clutch. Or the disc is in backwards but none of that happed because you were driving the truck and the thing broke.
If I was in your shoes , I'd would be looking for at least a 3/4 inch of travel to depress the pressure plate.

 

[American1990]

Ok... I'm going to give it one more try, going to try another slave that i have not used yet that the plastic type, with my FM146. Going to bleed it all again and then see if anything happens.

Ok, here a video of the moment I have been getting so far, The First time the slave cylinder pushes out is me increasing the pivot point for the slave, all the other ones are the pedal pushing from stock pivot point.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dViibbhAClA&feature=youtu.be

 

[RangerSVT]

Was there any play in the clutch pedal pivot point located inside the pedal assembly?

SVT

 

[American1990]

No, everything was very sturdy. The bracket, and pedal were all firm, no play in any of it. nor any sign of wear or bad age on them...

 

[RangerSVT]

My next suggestion is what your already trying, the appropriate sized slave...

SVT

 

[bmerr98]

Just thinking about the focus on the clutch pedal/master cylinder...on my old '91 the sheet metal of the firewall started cracking where the master cylinder bolted to it. By the time I found it I was having trouble shifting and there was a significant amount of pedal movement being used up by the flexing sheet metal. Once I fixed that things went back to normal. May have no bearing on your situation, just a thought.