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New member 94 ranger xlt 2.3


Furbee, we don't need to know every thing you do in the Dx process. In addition, rather than posting every few minutes, you can 'edit' the original instead of running up your post count with bon-mots.

EDITED(added, actually)
There was an 'edit' button next to the "QUOTE" button when I opened this page. It only shows for a while after you do the original post.
It is really my problem as it is me who does not like to page through 30 posts and 3 pages to find the latest post. I lose 'what we were talking about' after a bit of time, and excessive posts make it harder to page back to see what was actually going on, what had been tested / replaced, and what had not even been mentioned. Harder to do, is all, and the one-line posts just seem to me to add excessive paging to 'get to the meat' of the problem. YMMV
tom
 
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Ok. Sorry i wont bother. And on the app i see no edit button. I solved the problem had a leak on 1 of the vacuum hoses on the evap canister. Replaced the connection and also cleaned the can. Now no more shudder and the idle is smooth as can be. Thank you everyone for the help along the way.

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If there was a vacuum leak and that fixed the stumble that's great...congratulations. I didn't include that but it is a more common issue than the others.

Only minor problem is that the evap system is only used on startup and should shut down during normal operations via the valve that the vacuum line attaches to from the intake.

There may still be a problem involving the function of the valve and replacing it may be necessary.

The intake manifold vacuum is constant (with exceptions of higher rpm) so the leak would have had to be before the purge valve if the valve is actually working properly. If so...no worries...if not...the valve is sticking open and allowing a constant draw on the fumes from the tank.

Probably not a big deal though...just an FYI.
 
Doin oil change i found another issue. The hose that has the pcv isnt plugged in. Here is the end that is plugged in down below the other end curves up but not plugged in. Haynes manual ismt helping me
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That is the oil catch canister and the pcv helps to draw excess air pressure out of the crankcase...so it is important to connect that...even though it will vent to the outside.

There is no actual vacuum line connected to the PCV if that's what you're after. Just the line that runs to the throttle body so it can suck the oil fumes (smoke) back into the combustion.

If that hose is off you will just be drawing in unmetered cleaner air that can upset the O2 readings...possible lean codes.

Best to get some hose and just connect it up so the emissions work properly...I believe it was 5/16" and just plain hose...nothing special.
 
I appreciate all your knowledge. Where do i connect it.

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If that was the in-line PCV valve in the 2nd picture, being held by your hand, it should be plugged into the line shown in the 1st picture, the one with the small vapor separator installed into the side of the block. The PCV valve is a bit unusual, in that it connects to the separator on one end, and to a line leading to the intake manifold on the other, and does not sit in the rocker arm like so many other engines do. IOW the PCV valve should get stuffed into the end of a 3/4" or so piece of rubber hose that should lead up to the intake.
tom
 
Alright that confirms what i noticed, i have a nipple on the intake right below the throttle body that had nothing plugged into it. i must have knocked it off getting the filter off. Not sure. that same vacuum pic on the engine.Just realized this morning but it only had 1 plug coming off the throttle body thats y i was confused. i spent moneybon the haynes manual and u guys have provided all my answers.

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is there a place i could have verify my vacuum lines are hooked up right that isnt gonna change me an arm and a leg.

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There should be a vacuum routing diagram sticker on the radiator support or the under side of the hood. Just follow each line as drawn to verify connections and condition of the hoses & tubes. It should also have the belt routing diagram.
If yours is missing or illegible, wander over to a dealer that may have a similar vehicle in stock, and use a camera to snap a shot of what you should have.
Or, as you questioned, pay someone. I'd figure 1/2 hour labor at a minimum(why? because they can) for cost planning purposes, plus any hoses/tubes found to be in marginal condition. Factory trained(ha!) techs should have no problem. As would Joe & Bob's Fine Auto Repair Emporium & Pizza Shop. Reading the diagram is pretty simple work.
tom
 
so based on the diagram the line from the carbon can connects to the nipple under the throttle body... and then that linefrom the oil seporator with the pcv on the other end would plug into this nipple directly on the bottom of the upper intake
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I might have been confusing this more than necessary...the older style PCVs had two smaller openings above the larger one but they changed them after 1988 or so...your year has only the one large opening that connects to that nipple on the underside of the upper intake...

So there should be just two hoses...one from the oil separator to the PCV and one from the PCV to the upper intake nipple....

I hope that clarifies...
 
yes it does. glad u cleared that up for mem also means i didn't do it lol. prev owner had the carbon can hooked up there and the pcv just tucked down. along with the empty nipple on the throttle body. no wonder ive been hunting for my rough idle issue. u are awsome. ill head to thr store and pick up a hose to connect them. i really appreciate your patience with me. i am very new to this. first older vehicle ive owned

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well i just took it to be emission tested. failed due to nox. limit was 4.0 and i test 4.33. dammit

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