Need some opinions TTB unloading problems

[Northidahotrailblazer]

There progressive, I’m not going to disagree because it did cross my mind to find some standard rate coils after reading up on 4x4junkies threads. But this thing is way better than it was last year with the EB coils. I had BDS coils last year and they were down right scary. Almost 600 ppi or something like that…. The EB rates are 204/375. Idk after messing with the steering, maybe I’ll go down that road again lol

 

[ryan]

There progressive, I’m not going to disagree because it did cross my mind to find some standard rate coils after reading up on 4x4junkies threads. But this thing is way better than it was last year with the EB coils. I had BDS coils last year and they were down right scary. Almost 600 ppi or something like that…. The EB rates are 204/375. Idk after messing with the steering, maybe I’ll go down that road again lol

I liked the progressive rate coils for that same reason, but a little softer wouldnt hurt too. The jump when you go to a jeep spring is a lot different though. I'd be curious how the ones for the JKs compare - we were using XJ springs on the TTBs

 

[4x4junkie]

I'd bet that the EB springs are jacking the front end up with the steering too like @4x4junkie is saying - the beams are fighting each other, pushing and then the stiffness of the coils is pushing it more. Are they progressive rate coils or the standard rate eb coils?

The steering certainly is the main culprit here. Softer coils exacerbate the issue because they aren't as restrictive (allowing more suspension movement, further pulling the tires toed-in). Once the steering is sorted out, then other things like springs, and the unloading (limit cable) can be addressed.

Yeah we should have more spring options for this now... JK/JL or even JT coils for Supercabs...
Supercabs and V8-swapped rigs were always the tough ones to put better springs on the TTB for since most EB coils were close, but not quite perfect like the XJ springs were for BIIs and 2-dr Explorers. I'm guessing JT springs would be around 300-320lb, just based on size & proportions of the vehicle, but I could be way off.

 

[ryan]

The steering certainly is the main culprit here. Softer coils exacerbate the issue because they aren't as restrictive (allowing more suspension movement, further pulling the tires toed-in). Once the steering is sorted out, then other things like springs, and the unloading (limit cable) can be addressed.

Yeah we should have more spring options for this now... JK/JL or even JT coils for Supercabs...
Supercabs and V8-swapped rigs were always the tough ones to put better springs on the TTB for since most EB coils were close, but not quite perfect like the XJ springs were for BIIs and 2-dr Explorers. I'm guessing JT springs would be around 300-320lb, just based on size & proportions of the vehicle, but I could be way off.

I think the packaging for them might be better too on a ranger, at least from how they looked when I did the lift on my parents' JT. they are a much closer match

 

[Northidahotrailblazer]

@4x4junkie so today I was doing some measuring. Really looking at your info. So I measured the center line of the hub to my beam pivot bolt. Mine is 1 1/4 inch below the centerline. Tech section said give or take 1 inch. But it really focus on being above the pivot bolt. Don’t know if this would play a huge role in the steering more so has probably an impact on aligning it. I really don’t want this thing any higher.

I’m going to have to do some mock up on a k link. Probably going to have to go back to a stock pitman arm, so I can get some more room to work with. Something is up with my drivers beam. I plan on replacing it with one beefed up this winter.

 

[Northidahotrailblazer]

Also, I did the measurements in my shop. My steering is straight across, the drivers side looks a little down in this picture but when on level ground it’s straight. Doesn’t matter, I’m going to do some k link set up.

 

[bobbywalter]

its definitely under center, and really....its about as good as it gets for stock ttb stuff.




i cant find many pics. cant upload any either i did have a fairly radical setup and experimented with several junkyard setups that worked better than the typical k link in regards to being crosseyed.




i used the hd gm link for an idler for a bit but needed to make some more bends to get rid of bind issues.

not hard to play around with if you get it for a few bux at the junkyard and start fitting.

 

[bobbywalter]

cant find much. everything is dead and the forum wont let me upload from my pc.


but this setup with 140 ppi springs and bags would allow radical travel for uncut beams. travel said to be impossible by many... i ended up canting the seats as well to keep the springs from ejecting. but if you pop a bag you are screwed.

that said, with front and rear bags you can definitely stabilize the ride on your bronco for road use..


here in this picture there is allot going on... it is folding over the coils on the passenger side, as in negative compression. note how far past the pivot bracket it is.


with the steering like this toe change is minimal throughout the range and much better than the already livable k link style....

the drivers side ties in at the passenger side and eliminates the insanity you had climbing as they stay more neutral with this.

but the forces compound with 300 plus hp, it can get to ripping stuff up quick.

the rack auto pics are just for ideals for an idler... there is a hd 3 bolt idler shaft and you can easily make a fore/aft setup to more closely match the pivots verse the k link....or just use it to make a k link..

the k link itself is definitely a good enough compromise though for most if it was still easily available as a bolt in. there are several center links from astrovans and crown vics and stuff that can be workable to make a decent steering setup. if i ever end up with another ttb ranger i will figure it out.

 

[Northidahotrailblazer]

Is

cant find much. everything is dead and the forum wont let me upload from my pc.


but this setup with 140 ppi springs and bags would allow radical travel for uncut beams. travel said to be impossible by many... i ended up canting the seats as well to keep the springs from ejecting. but if you pop a bag you are screwed.

that said, with front and rear bags you can definitely stabilize the ride on your bronco for road use..


here in this picture there is allot going on... it is folding over the coils on the passenger side, as in negative compression. note how far past the pivot bracket it is.


with the steering like this toe change is minimal throughout the range and much better than the already livable k link style....

the drivers side ties in at the passenger side and eliminates the insanity you had climbing as they stay more neutral with this.

but the forces compound with 300 plus hp, it can get to ripping stuff up quick.

the rack auto pics are just for ideals for an idler... there is a hd 3 bolt idler shaft and you can easily make a fore/aft setup to more closely match the pivots verse the k link....or just use it to make a k link..

the k link itself is definitely a good enough compromise though for most if it was still easily available as a bolt in. there are several center links from astrovans and crown vics and stuff that can be workable to make a decent steering setup. if i ever end up with another ttb ranger i will figure it out.

I can’t tell from your picture but that’s pretty much a stone crusher type? I found an old picture you posted in an old tread. That’s something to think about. I like the idea of that setup, it’s simple, way less work than a K link. Man I really appreciate it. It’s so hard to find info on this stuff.