• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Need more power outta 2.3


(st)ranger

New Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2013
Messages
3
City
Northern Indiana
Vehicle Year
1996
Transmission
Manual
I have a 96 ranger stick shift 2wd with a 2.3. What's the best way to give my truck a little bigger balls. I know the obvious answer is a 302 swap but this is my only vehicle ATM so this isn't am option. And my pockets aren't very deep. Not looking to hit the autobahn or pull a horse trailer just wanna get down the free way a lil easier.
 
Do you have a automatic, or a manual transmission? Also most 2.3 Rangers have a 3.40 rear end gear in them, going to a 3.73 gear will help quite a bit (putting a 3.73 gear in my brothers 92 Ranger helped it out a lot). See what rear end gear ratio you have.
 
How would I find out what gears I have? I've never did anything with a differential before other then replacing one. And the electric fan is something I never would of thought of. Thanx
 
I think the 96 ranger has 3.73 gears stock. Another question I have is what is a good performance exhaust set up for the 2.3 that won't sound like a ricer
 
The tag on the diff has all the info on it, it will tell you what size your diff is, the gear ratio and whether its open or not
 
power

On a 4 banger bigger balls equals a bigger wallet, theres no way around it, things like exhaust and in take mods will only give small gains not worth the money, you only really pick up power till you dig in to the engine its self, Iam doing my 2.5 now and with some light port work, and small increase in compression and a 1.1 Bo-Port cam, and a inline tuner, plus exhaust, and intake mods Iam only going to see may be 25 hp gain, cost about an extra $1000 bucks on top of the block over haul and rebalance job, I could do major stuff like really big cam esslinger head and carb but its just not going to be a nice driver any more, and dont buy into some of the tuner stuff that makes claims of an instant 60 hp gain, Tune her up, clean her up then ride the hell out of her, best bang for the buck, oh yea dont put big tires on it with out a gear change, you should have 3:73 and would need 4:10:icon_cheers:
 
Turbo...Turbo...Turbo...Turbo...TURBO...TURBO...TURBO

Oh, did I mention Turbo?

I just noticed that Anupaum (sp) is selling his blower for $2,000...you might want to check that out...but it is in Vancouver BC
 
I think the 96 ranger has 3.73 gears stock. Another question I have is what is a good performance exhaust set up for the 2.3 that won't sound like a ricer

The electric fan helped low end torque, and made the truck almost silent at idle. Get a 2.3L foxbody temp switch to run it (on at 210*F off at 185*F)

The tube header helped with the high end, took away from the low end

A full 2.5" exhaust has helped, but I'm still working on eliminating an annoying resonance at 2,000rpm. Otherwise it sounds fine.

v8 19# injectors helped the low end, but it ran so rich that you could smell fuel in the exhaust and it tripped a rich code constantly. That experiment was short lived.

Tonneau cover and garden trim front lip for redneck aerodynamics...

Synthetics all around make it run smoother, but I have yet to see the often quoted "+1mpg" for synthetic changes.

23mpg (traffic down here moves fast). At 55mph it can tag 28mpg, but I'll take the mileage hit to get there on time.

All that and...
My truck is still slower than my Wife's 4.0 automatic Grand Cherokee....
 
The ranger tube header is junk, if that what you out on, you're imagining the hp gain. It has been dyno proven on several different 2.3 configurations to hurt performance at all points vs a stock even flow cast iron manifold.
 
The 96 already has the tube header so it's not something he would have to change...I changed mine to the tube header from the stock and noticed a slight gain in my performance...probably from reduced weight...but more likely from the P&P I did myself and the new cam...with slightly longer duration of valve opening...I think I ended up junking the cam eventually when the head cracked and I had to rebuild it yet again.
 
Yea the cam is the likely helper. As for weight, there's only a 10-15 pound difference. Its not even enough to notice. The design is all wrong. If you want weight savings an performance, buy a 2.5 cast manifold. They are the same as the old ones, with much less excess casting material.
 
And toss the jump seats...about 100 lbs...unless you actually use them for something like bondage or torturing tall people...
 
Best exhaust manifold

This is a 2.5L ex. manifold note that 1 and 4 and 2 and 3 are tied together for scavenging, with a port match and a little grinding at the pipe flange you will get more than most headers on the market, and the power increase will be more wide spread
 

Attachments

  • 006.jpg
    006.jpg
    108.1 KB · Views: 230
  • 007.jpg
    007.jpg
    108.5 KB · Views: 224

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Latest posts

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top