Manual hub bearing service

[kevinsranger]

Oh alright I found it. I'm assuming the Dana 28 and Dana 35 seal kits are interchangeable.

that i dont know, i would guess it is because i thing the axle thickness is the same. hopefully someone more experienced with both of them can tell you. this is still pretty new to me, i just did my bearings and seals last month thats the only reason i have the other answers for you lol.

 

[KELLY88]

that i dont know, i would guess it is because i thing the axle thickness is the same. hopefully someone more experienced with both of them can tell you. this is still pretty new to me, i just did my bearings and seals last month thats the only reason i have the other answers for you lol.

I hope so. I looked on that Tech Library page and it had the Dana 28 seal part numbers but didn't say whether or not the Dana 35 seals are the same. Thanks for all your help too, much appreciated!

 

[BlackBII]

Dana 28 and Dana 35 have different Spindles, Hubs, Shafts and also Bearings, therefore different seals.

 

[KELLY88]

Dana 28 and Dana 35 have different Spindles, Hubs, Shafts and also Bearings, therefore different seals.

Well that's not good. Should I just hopefully rely that the part store will know what I need? I don't exactly hate the utmost confidence in their searchings most of the time.

 

[BlackBII]

Yes, the parts store should know what you need.
You have a '97 right?

 

[KELLY88]

Yes, the parts store should know what you need.
You have a '97 right?

Yes I do. Will it make any difference that my manual hubs are aftermarket? Probably a stupid question but just trying to cover all the bases.

 

[kevinsranger]

no that wont matter, all the seals are the same

 

[KELLY88]

Thanks. So it looks like 2 oil seals per side?

 

[kevinsranger]

Thanks. So it looks like 2 oil seals per side?

i know one for the spindle bearing and one for the back wheel bearing, i think there was some kind of plastic shield thing too but mine was fine.

 

[KELLY88]

i know one for the spindle bearing and one for the back wheel bearing, i think there was some kind of plastic shield thing too but mine was fine.

Alright looks like things are set. I'll probably do the job either tonight or tomorrow and will update how everything goes. Much thanks to kevinsranger and BlackBII.

 

[97ranger4x4]

One last thing, make sure you torque everything correctly. First time I didnt it I read to torque one of the locknuts to 150#. I didnt realize to torque it to 35# then back on finger tight. about a week or so later I froze the bearings onto the spindle. Luckily it was under warrenty. However when I did it a month or so ago, i made sure not to screw this up and all is well!

 

[KELLY88]

One last thing, make sure you torque everything correctly. First time I didnt it I read to torque one of the locknuts to 150#. I didnt realize to torque it to 35# then back on finger tight. about a week or so later I froze the bearings onto the spindle. Luckily it was under warrenty. However when I did it a month or so ago, i made sure not to screw this up and all is well!

Wait you kinda lost me in the numbers. Torque to 35# then back off and thentighten finger tight and then go to 150#?

 

[Hahnsb2]

Wait you kinda lost me in the numbers. Torque to 35# then back off and thentighten finger tight and then go to 150#?

You torque the inner nut to 35 Ft/lbs while spinning the rotor, back off and then tighten to 15 INCH/lbs (I do mine hand tight with the socket), then put the locking washer and outer lock nut on then crank it down to over 200 FT/lbs and it should be fine.

 

[97ranger4x4]

yeh there are two locknuts. The first one gets torqued to 35 ft lbs. Then you back it off 1/4 turn. Then tighten to 15-20 ft lbs (hand tightened). The second locknut is the one that is tightened to 150 ft lbs.

When I did it, i tightened the first one to 150 ft lbs. obviously a little tighter than it is supposed to. Also according to the factory service manual, you should turn the rotor the opposite direction of torqueing the locknuts to help it seat properly. You can do it yourself, but i reccomend a buddy to help you for your first time.

good luck
-Keith

 

[Hahnsb2]

Then tighten to 15-20 ft lbs (hand tightened).

INCH/LBS! The outer nut should really be tightened to over 200 ft/lbs, ford's 150ft/lb spec is low in many cases and the nuts will back off.