Manual hub bearing service

[97ranger4x4]

Ohh shit your right, that is in In-lbs. I am sorry. Thats what I have read about them backing out at 150# How can you check for this or how will you know if something happens. I am rotating my tires in a few hundred miles so I will just check everything while I am in there to make sure its all good.

 

[mkpecor]

when you repack your bearings, as you take the washers off clean them with a rag, first washer will go on the floor next on on top of that one and so on. and get some gas in a pan and clean the bearings really good, then dry off, you want to put each bearing in the same race in came out of. and do one side at a time so if you do get some thing mixed up go and look at the other side to see how it is.

 

[racsan]

i wish there was a way to fill the hubs with gear oil, not much space in there for grease.if there was a flush-type plug, you could even change the "hub oil" occasionally and not have to repack bearings on a maintenence schedule. 'spose there is too much heat from the brakes for this to be a possibility? id still rather have this setup than the newer rangers with the sealed bearings. even if you have to replace the tapered roller bearings, its still much cheaper to repair than the sealed unit.
________
no2 vaporizer

 

[KELLY88]

yeh there are two locknuts. The first one gets torqued to 35 ft lbs. Then you back it off 1/4 turn. Then tighten to 15-20 ft lbs (hand tightened). The second locknut is the one that is tightened to 150 ft lbs.

When I did it, i tightened the first one to 150 ft lbs. obviously a little tighter than it is supposed to. Also according to the factory service manual, you should turn the rotor the opposite direction of torqueing the locknuts to help it seat properly. You can do it yourself, but i reccomend a buddy to help you for your first time.

good luck
-Keith

Wish I had a buddy who has done this to help out, but unfortunately I'm on my own. I did get into it a little and pulled it down to the outer bearing and everything was completely packed with grease so I didn't go any furthur than that. Do they still need repacked even if they are full?

 

[kevinsranger]

Wish I had a buddy who has done this to help out, but unfortunately I'm on my own. I did get into it a little and pulled it down to the outer bearing and everything was completely packed with grease so I didn't go any furthur than that. Do they still need repacked even if they are full?

yea clean the old grease out and put new in, there can be sand and dirt and metal shavings in that grease, you already got it apart, and besides, you still need to get the spindle bearing greased.

 

[KELLY88]

yea clean the old grease out and put new in, there can be sand and dirt and metal shavings in that grease, you already got it apart, and besides, you still need to get the spindle bearing greased.

Alright, well looking forward to this, damn it's gonna be a mess. Last redundant question, the brake caliper and rotor have to come off in the middle of this process don't they?

 

[4x4junkie]

Yep.

 

[MAKG]

when you repack your bearings, as you take the washers off clean them with a rag, first washer will go on the floor next on on top of that one and so on. and get some gas in a pan and clean the bearings really good, then dry off, you want to put each bearing in the same race in came out of. and do one side at a time so if you do get some thing mixed up go and look at the other side to see how it is.

I prefer to use lacquer thinner or brake cleaner. Gasoline isn't very good. But ALL these solvents are highly flammable, so do it well away from open flames and under excellent ventilation.

 

[kevinsranger]

I prefer to use lacquer thinner or brake cleaner. Gasoline isn't very good. But ALL these solvents are highly flammable, so do it well away from open flames and under excellent ventilation.

ventilation? come on now, the fumes make the job all the more fun, you get so loopy you dont care how long it take you lol.