Lifetime starters from Auto Zone and the 4.0 clutch Upgrade on a 2.9L

[Hawkeye58]

Hi all,

I performed the 4.0L flywheel and clutch upgrade on My '88 2.9L engine when I built it 4300 miles ago. I also at that time installed a good 5 speed FM145 from a '87 BII. I have now installed three life time starters from Auto Zone on this set up. They keep shucking out the bearing that supports the gear and it's grinding up my new flywheel. This time it lasted six days. Each time a new one is installed it purrs just fine for about two days and then little by little it's performance deteriorates to a point where it's just grinding when it tries to engage. What is it? Has anyone ran into these types of things before? Is it that the starters are rebuilt and they say mexico right on them? I'm inclined to think the later is the problem. But I need to get some info here before I go ballistic down at the store. I intend to head to NAPA next I think. Any input?

Thanks

Hawkeye

 

[kunar]

you need to be sure that you are using a starter for a manual, one for an auto wont work. other than that i would be inclined to believe that there's an issue with the alignment of the starter. i have put about 10k miles on the same setup in my truck and have had no issues...

 

[Hawkeye58]

It's a manual type starter. But, what do you mean by alignment? I can only bolt it with the two bolts and turn the key. Cna you get more specific please?
Thanks.

Hawkeye

 

[BlackBII]

Yeah, it's gotta be the alignment of the starter. Do you have the plate between the motor and bellhousing?

And it's not possible to use an 4.0 Auto starter, it wont even engage the flywheel, it sits in the bellhousing too deep.

 

[Hawkeye58]

Nope no plate, didn't get it with the donor engine or with the trans.
You really think that can do this?

Hawkeye

 

[lost86broncoii]

i heard that autozone's starters where shit along with their alternators...

 

[throttlejockey689]

I run the starter for a 2.9/auto with my 4.0 flywheel and clutch. I don't recommend doing it this way but it has lasted for 2 years so far with no problems.

What happened was days after swapping in the 5 speed with 4.0 clutch setup the starter died in a parking lot. I got my new starter from the auto used two large nuts to space it out from the flywheel. I have no idea how it I got lucky enough for it to work, but there's never been any grinding and the starter engages fully.

Some starters when bolting them on you have a bit of play, not much but it can be enough sometimes, you may be mounting it too close to the flywheel, or the other way around. If you did leave out the block plate(thin flimsy spacer between engine and trans) than that may be your problem.

 

[Hawkeye58]

Well It looks like I'll go to the bone yard and get the plate needed then.
Any other ideas are also welcome. Thanks for the replies!

Hawkeye

 

[chapnutz_#1]

Well It looks like I'll go to the bone yard and get the plate needed then.
Any other ideas are also welcome. Thanks for the replies!

Hawkeye

why go through that trouble in case that is not your issue...find the thickness of the torque plate between the engine and trans, hit up your local parts store and get a starter shim-alot easier and mabey a softer hit in the wallet(autozone has them in the help section, if this fixes the problem, then go and do the bull work of pulling the trans, clutch, flywheel to put that plate in

 

[dangerranger911]

i had a issue on 86 with a cracked bell housing down the bolt path that allowed the starter to bind i had the same issue from auto zone got a napa new starter it lasted longer but like a few months

 

[AllanD]

Yeah, it's gotta be the alignment of the starter. Do you have the plate between the motor and bellhousing?

And it's not possible to use an 4.0 Auto starter, it wont even engage the flywheel, it sits in the bellhousing too deep.

Actually thats bass akwards.

The Auto starter nose is too long and the manual trrans starter nose is shorter because the ring gear sits CLOSER to the engine block.

So while tha auto starter will start the engine it won't disengage from the flywheel unless you put three or four washers between the starter and the bellhousing.

IF you are running without the plate you only need ONE 10mm washer on each bolt between the starter and the block.

AD

 

[Hawkeye58]

Thanks for the ideas. I got some shims, I didn't read your post though until I'd gone and got a plate at the bone yards though. But I went today and grabbed a pack of shims before I go and get into it too far. One question though. Will it matter if I use a plate from a Automatic? Nothing was available from a 2.9L so I looked at the Explorers and they were all Autos. But one had the trans removed already, all I had to do was remove the flex plate and that was that.
$2.50 not too bad.

Hawkeye

 

[Hawkeye58]

Well The shims made it worse. It would only grab about half the teeth from the back side direction. It looks like it needs to travel more inward and engage the teeth better in depth. It has done some damage to the teeth having several starters go bad on me now. The shim I used was from the "HELP" parts at NAPA. It's a Ford shim, and measures 1mm thick, that is slightly thicker than the plate from between the block and trans.
Not sure what to do now.

Hawkeye

 

[dangerranger911]

why dont you try a auto starter and shim it out to where you need it.

 

[Totalled]

You have to get a 4.0 manual trans block plate... the 4.0 manual starter won't fit into an auto plate.. the hole is too small.

The block plate is what locates the starters on fords... it's required.