To begin with; we need to check a couple basic things.
1. Clip your test lead ground to battery negative or a good, clean (bare, unpainted metal) ground point on the engine block or truck body somewhere close to where you're working. Leave it there for all these tests. Do not disconnect your battery leads. Now, touch your probe point to both sides of the EEC power fuse, like I showed in the video. This is a fairly large, 30 amp fuse in the engine compartment fuse/relay box. Shown in the lower left corner in the diagram below. You should have power on both sides of that fuse. If not, replace it and see if the truck starts.
2. With the key in the "run" position, we need to check for power on pin 8 at your ICM. If needed, disconnect the ICM connector so you can touch the probe to the pin inside (the harness side of the connector, not the ICM side). Don't not force the probe into the connector. You could bend the contacts and cause a loose connection later. Just touch it long enough to ensure you have power there. If there IS power. This means the PCM power relay works and your red wire is good to the ICM. If not, we need to figure out why - probably a bad PCM relay. Plug the connector back onto the ICM.
3. Next, check for power at the ignition coil. You should have 12 volts on the red/light green wire at the coil. Again, if needed, you can unplug the connector to touch your probe to the contacts in the harness side of the connector. If you have power there, good. If not, we must find out why. The ICM works by interrupting the ground side of the coil circuits when commanded to do so. This generates the spark signal to the spark plugs.
If you do NOT have power at the coil with the key on (run or start positions), then we need to trace back to the ignition switch and find the problem. That power comes through the ignition switch from a 60amp fuse in the engine compartment fuse/relay box, lower right corner. You can check that fuse the same way we checked the 30amp fuse earlier.