Hydraulic clutch issues

[Lift]

Ok i have, this

This

A braided clutch line with the fitting that screws into the slave

a setup very similar to this with the same 280z slave cylinder

And im using all thread for the pushrod, there is a small amount of preload on the clutch fork. When i push in the clutch the fork wont go more than half way and the slave still has half an inch of movement in the bore. This clutch setup is costing me a lot of money and taking a lot of timing and giving me nothing but problems... Im not sure what to do with the setup i have to make it work and be reliable. I have done the best setup for this clutch system based of the research i have done on what other people said works the best. Im not sure what to do.... I dont want to be riding my clutch and i dont want the throw out bearing to go out real fast. any ideas?

 

[RonD]

The master on these can get air at the top if reservoir ever goes dry, just the steep angle.
You can bleed them in the vehicle and it does work well.

You need c-clip pliers

Google: video Ranger clutch master bleed


Since this is a custom job, what is the size(diameter) of the slave piston, it may be too large, so has limited travel based on the masters piston size.

The slave is usually slightly smaller than the master on most setups, but only slightly.
Larger diameter slave = less travel with more force at the slave, i.e. brake calipers
Smaller diameter = more travel with less force at the slave

 

[Lift]

The master on these can get air at the top if reservoir ever goes dry, just the steep angle.
You can bleed them in the vehicle and it does work well.

You need c-clip pliers

Google: video Ranger clutch master bleed


Since this is a custom job, what is the size(diameter) of the slave piston, it may be too large, so has limited travel based on the masters piston size.

The slave is usually slightly smaller than the master on most setups, but only slightly.
Larger diameter slave = less travel with more force at the slave, i.e. brake calipers
Smaller diameter = more travel with less force at the slave

I have the 280z slave cylinder, im not sure of the bore size but i know the clutch master is 7/8" bore.

 

[Mac]

What is that master out of? Most have used the '89' V-6 master, Dorman lists it as a 7/8" bore but more likely only 3/4", all the others for that application are 3/4". The 280 slaves are usually 3/4" bore also. What ever the stroke is at the master, bores being equal, is all the stroke you will get at the slave. 1.25-1.375" is really the preferred stoke at the slave.
Dave

 

[Lift]

I have a 92 4.0L clutch master cylinder. That was the year i was told was 7/8 bore.

 

[RonD]

1992 Ranger 3.0l/4.0l clutch master is listed as 3/4" bore/piston.

That would still be at least 1" travel at the slave if it was 7/8", but you are only getting .5" so I would suspect air in the master

 

[Lift]

Do i need to pick up a different master again then?

 

[RonD]

If the Master has been bled and you still don't have enough travel then I would get a smaller bore slave, since that is retro fitted anyway.

Smaller bore on slave means more travel at slave but more pressure is needed at the pedal/master.
A 3/4" bore slave would give equal travel at slave, so if master has 1.25" travel so would slave

 

[Mac]

That size master has been used a lot. Problem comes with the right size slave or having to deal with too much preload or not enough engagement. Been looking all over for a true 7/8" bore master only one I found is fron a '83' E-150 but would need to be adapted to the firewall some how. Check to see how much travel you actually have at the master. Got a picture somewhere of what someone with a Monster Miata did in moving the connection point at the lever for the slave.
Dave

 

[Lift]

I took a look at the hydraulic system again and the clutch pedal in the cab is about a half an inch lower than the brake pedal, then i remembered that i still need to swap the mastercylinder pushrod to the right side of the clutch pedal in the cab which should bring up the clutch pedal a little more. So basically i think that the master wasnt getting enough travel in the first place. Maybe this will solve my problem?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

^^^ It can't hurt to try.
Did you try bleeding the system yet? If you haven't, you can try "burping" the master while you have the rod off the pedal. IIRC, remove the c-clip and carefully pull the rod partially out of the master, any air should come out. Fluid will also drip so have a rag handy. Push the rod back in and put every thing back together.
Please let us know whether you have or are doing what we suggest, as it lets us remove that item off the list of possibles.
Good luck,

Richard

 

[Lift]

I fixed the clutch .

So what I did was I took the clutch master-cylinder off and removed the special fitting I bought. I had an extra fitting laying around and I ground the end on the fitting a little less then I did on the one I had in before. I also put a rubber seal over the fitting and the fit in the master-cylinder was way tighter.

Because I'm using a newer master cylinder the push-rod didn't sit right where the factory push-rod mounted too, so I took the pedal assembly out and drilled a hole in the new location and located the push-rod on the right side of the pedal instead of the left. So the pedal now sits a little higher and when I push on the pedal now the clutch fork goes pretty much all the way forward. On top of that it feels like a real clutch now.

 

[RonD]

Good job in fabricating

 

[Lift]

Haha thanks, took me a while to actually get this clutch working. I really appreciate everyones help on this forum.