How to run ignition to new block and WTH happened HERE?!

[ShotnVA777]

I have my 88 Stang Block pulled apart, in the middle of doing so, I found this!

CYLINDER 4's intake runner and all looked jacked and this was also there...

This had slipped off, somehow...

I fixed it tthough, it was TOUGH to do without taking off the cam! Ugh...

So QUESTION #1 is what was up with that? Why was it so corroded? It looked like the head gasket could've been blown on that end, but I'm not positive...? Ive cleaned it up a TON since then BUT still? The pistons looked fine!

Here's question #2!

What to do about getting spark to this motor after its rebuilt, from top to bottom... With a carburetor of course and also running + 10:1 compression!

That's the Motocraft version... Can I still do this though with the "Motorcrap Dizzy"? And is that ALL that needs to be done?? LINK VVV

http://www.carbdford.com/tech/HEI/hei.htm

THANKS SO MUCH FOR EVERYONES HELP SO FAR!

I TYPED OUT A HUGE BUILD THREAD W/ TONS OF PICS AND SUCH AND THEN MY BROWSER CRASHED >_< SWEET HUH?! PISSED ME OFF! LOL... BUT IT WON'T STOP ME FROM MAKING MY BUILD THREAD, NEXT TIME I'M DOING I'M ON THE CPU THOUGH! 100%

PEACE RANGERERS!

 

[ShotnVA777]

Hello?

Anyone?

 

[Mikel89us]

Sorry, haven't had time to respond yet. I'll post this weekend with a rundown of what I can tell you.

 

[ShotnVA777]

Ok thanks... The entire head is going to be rebuilt for a HIGH rev range... I would like to have it at 7-8k....

But nonetheless, that valve still works? So I'm confused on what happened there.

 

[Kenneth S]

The rust in the intake port is from water that got into the intake some how, luckily the intake valve was closed or else the cylinder would have looked like the intake port. I can't tell from the pic if the engine was run with the follower off like it was. You can run the TFI distributor, but I prefer the earlier Duraspark distributor.

 

[Kenneth S]

What to do about getting spark to this motor after its rebuilt, from top to bottom... With a carburetor of course and also running + 10:1 compression!

That's the Motocraft version... Can I still do this though with the "Motorcrap Dizzy"? And is that ALL that needs to be done?? LINK VVV

http://www.carbdford.com/tech/HEI/hei.htm

You can do that with the Duraspark distributor, you could also use the Duraspark module with the blue, or red grommet where the wires come out of.

If you get the Duraspark wiring harness it will al most be plug, and play.

 

[ShotnVA777]

The rust in the intake port is from water that got into the intake some how, luckily the intake valve was closed or else the cylinder would have looked like the intake port. I can't tell from the pic if the engine was run with the follower off like it was. You can run the TFI distributor, but I prefer the earlier Duraspark distributor.

Yea, figured water... I think she had a minor blown head gasket and somehow water was making it into the valve area! But not a LICK of even surface rust on the cylinder, the combustion chamber NOR the cylinder walls! (Got away w/ one! Haha! )

I'm having thE head reworked, so it shouldn't be a problem, the valve still moves freely. But that really doesnt matter when your having new, bigger valves put in, high rate springs, nice new cam, etc.... BUT, We'll find out once we get er in the shop. Thanks for your input nonetheless! I love the love of the LIMA!

Also, you're saying I can run the TFI dizzy? What's that? What I HAVE? The Motorcraft? I could do it with the duraspark and the crossbred igniton module (the 4 male pointed one from a OLD V6 Camaro!) The guide is right there! What I'M ASKING, is if I can do it w/ THIS Motorcraft and if so how? Same way w/ the crossbred Part, or what?

You can do that with the Duraspark distributor, you could also use the Duraspark module with the blue, or red grommet where the wires come out of.

If you get the Duraspark wiring harness it will al most be plug, and play.

Are you saying all I need is the duraspark wiring harness and the crossbred HEI ignition to make this all work WITH my Motorcraft or is it, YOU MUST HAVE A DURACRAFT DIZZY?!

 

[Kenneth S]

The distributor you have is the TFI (it's made to run with a ecm), it won't work with the GM module. you need the Duraspark distributor.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

You will probably need the non feedback carb to go with the dizzy so you have ported vacuum for the timing advance. Look in the bone yards for a early 80s ranger 2.0 for parts you may get lucky plus you will be able to eliminate the computer. Do you need to pass smog if so you need to fix the stock system they do check.

 

[ShotnVA777]

The distributor you have is the TFI (it's made to run with a ecm), it won't work with the GM module. you need the Duraspark distributor.

ALL I needed to know... Thank you for your knowledge!

That said, where would I pick up a duraspark dizzy WITH the wiring harness? Is this a hard item(s) to find? I know the GM Module is cheap and ill buy it new.

You will probably need the non feedback carb to go with the dizzy so you have ported vacuum for the timing advance. Look in the bone yards for a early 80s ranger 2.0 for parts you may get lucky plus you will be able to eliminate the computer. Do you need to pass smog if so you need to fix the stock system they do check.

Couldn't I just use any old vacuum?

No smog test needed here...

I don't want a CPU at all... Am I headed in the wrong direction? I want this as SIMPLE as possible!

 

[kimcrwbr1]

You can just use manifold vacuum it works the same when it is off idle anyway. I got the harness for my engine off a 1984 ranger with the 2.0 engine in it. If you can find one it may have all three module dizzy and carb just be sure and cut the green wire long as you can for the coil and just use your existing coil.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-HEI-DIST...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ebb49ef84&vxp=mtr
The four pin module is also dependable cheap and plug and play repair just keep a spare in your glove box.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa.../N-iv1wtZ9n80u?itemIdentifier=767137_0_0_1851
Use tis diddy and your stock TFI coil.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

dizzy not diddy I believe the 2.0 and 2.3 use the same design others here will know for sure.
For the module you just mount it on a heat sync like a CPU sync for a computer. Use the goop also to transfer the heat the module produces.

 

[ShotnVA777]

Thanks everyone!

So now I've got spark.... Time to start looking at fuel/air in the carbed section

 

[Kenneth S]

The 2.0, and the 2.3 use the same distributor, the only difference between the 2.0, and 2.3 block is bore on the 2.0 is smaller (the 2.0 block can not be over bored to fit a 2.3 piston, the 2.0 block is cast different in the cylinder bore area only), and uses a smaller piston. The 2.0 uses the same crank, rods, oil pump, and external parts as the 2.3.