Heat soak?! Possibly???

[1994xlt]

Hello all, when I’m driving let’s say any temp above 90 degrees, and I stop and turn the truck off for 5 or so mins but less then 30-45 I’ll start the truck up and usually it will crank and start and die. Then I’ll crank it again and it will run but surge really bad and if I don’t hold it at 2000 plus rpm it will keep surging or die. Eventually after a few mins it will fizzle out and be okay. Seems to be worse with ac on. As well as the truck visibility hops like it will vibrate pretty bad. I am a younger kid so is this kind of just part of the older throttle body systems?

 

[superj]

Fuel injection normally doesnt get heat soak.

Next time you are.out amd about in a setting where it always does this, turnnthe key to run, off, run, off and leave it in run for 10 seconds or so each time. Maybe you have a fuel pump issue

 

[1994xlt]

Fuel injection normally doesnt get heat soak.

Next time you are.out amd about in a setting where it always does this, turnnthe key to run, off, run, off and leave it in run for 10 seconds or so each time. Maybe you have a fuel pump issue

Thank you. It’s a 1994 ford ranger 4.0 if that means anything

 

[superj]

Do the key deal and see if that stops it from happening. If it does stop it, you have to change your fuel pump.


Very easy to do on the ranger. A few bolts in the bed, a few screws around the fuel filler, and unhook the tail light wires and then you just tilt the bed up on the driver side and use a piece of 2x4 to hold it up while you replace the pump.

The pump should be fairly cheap on rockauto

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I’m fighting heat soak on my Choptop with the 4.0 currently. I still haven’t figured out exactly what the problem is. In the last two year I’ve replaced the entire fuel system minus the injectors (I believe I cleaned and tested them though around 5-10k miles ago). I thought maybe it had to do with the lack of insulation on the fuel lines coming past the headers but insulation hasn’t really fixed that. I should probably throw my fuel pressure gauge on even though the pump is practically brand new

 

[superj]

You have a return system for fueling?

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

You have a return system for fueling?

Yup, but my radio doesn’t like repeated attempts at cycling the key, it defaults to factory settings when you do. I don’t entirely understand why because it’s wired correctly

 

[1994xlt]

Do the key deal and see if that stops it from happening. If it does stop it, you have to change your fuel pump.


Very easy to do on the ranger. A few bolts in the bed, a few screws around the fuel filler, and unhook the tail light wires and then you just tilt the bed up on the driver side and use a piece of 2x4 to hold it up while you replace the pump.

The pump should be fairly cheap on rockauto

I’ll have to try this tomorrow thank you.

 

[superj]

Yup, but my radio doesn’t like repeated attempts at cycling the key, it defaults to factory settings when you do. I don’t entirely understand why because it’s wired correctly

That's really odd. Normally return systems allow the fuel to stay cool because it's always moving.

Can you out a heat shield between the header and fuel lines? Just a cut open soda can or something to use as a test

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

That's really odd. Normally return systems allow the fuel to stay cool because it's always moving.

Can you out a heat shield between the header and fuel lines? Just a cut open soda can or something to use as a test

Aluminum absorbs heat, stainless reflects it. I might try fashioning some stainless for in there

 

[superj]

But for testing, you just need that for a little while. If it works then you can make the permanent version from stainless

 

[cbxer55]

Do the key deal and see if that stops it from happening. If it does stop it, you have to change your fuel pump.


Very easy to do on the ranger. A few bolts in the bed, a few screws around the fuel filler, and unhook the tail light wires and then you just tilt the bed up on the driver side and use a piece of 2x4 to hold it up while you replace the pump.

The pump should be fairly cheap on rockauto

Me, put the axle on stands, remove all the above, take tailgate off for balance, and slide the bed back. Don't have to move it far.

 

[RobWigglezz]

Before replacing the fuel pump, you could connect a fuel pressure gauge. Start it up, record the pressure. Then let it sit for 10 minutes and record the pressure before turning the key. Turn the key to prime and record the pressure again.

Live data reading with a scanner on the engine temp sensor when it's hot would be helpful also. Could be saying it's hotter than it is and would provide less fuel to start