Perfect coolant change job


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I'm never the original owner of any of my vehicles. You never know what they used in the cooling system. Stop leak, raw eggs, well water, etc. I would use a HOAT Antifreeze which is yellow. It's pretty much just like the traditional green stuff but with organic acids better for aluminum and plastic.
 
For emptying the overflow tank I use the type of siphon pump used to fill kerosene heaters. These are usually dirt cheap, $2 or so each.
I find it simpler to just slip the overflow hose off at the rad-cap end, then slide it out from under that plastic flap that runs across the top of the radiator, then you can drop that end down to where it's hanging near the radiator petcock... which is already draining into your catch-pan. Reservoir will drain quickly and completely this way, no slurping or suctioning req'd.

Sadly, that overflow hose 'tween the rad-cap and reservoir is so thin-walled that it's HARD TO FIND, i.e. thicker-walled versions won't fit neatly under the aforementioned plastic flap... IIRC I had to venture into a very obscure corner of duh interwebz to find one.
 
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As to the color, best thing is to use what your owners manual recommends, if you have the manual. Roerts recommendation sounds good.

For flushing, I drain the system. Then use a garden hose to flush it real good with the engine running. Then, I drain it good (engine off), refill with new coolant mix and purge air bubbles.

I use this.
View attachment 148478
When you say you purge the air bubbles, what's the procedure?
 
When you say you purge the air bubbles, what's the procedure?

On the older trucks like yours I like to park at a slight incline with the radiator filled & cap off, start the engine, let it idle for a bit and add coolant as the level starts to drop into the radiator. Once it stabilizes somewhat, have someone hold the throttle partway open to 2-3000RPM while you fill the rad. The increased throttle sucks the coolant level down. Once it's full, put the cap back on, and let it go back to idle. Fill the overflow tank to the cold full mark and go drive it a few miles. 95% of the time that gets the air out on the 1st try.
 
I do basically what Shran just outlined, with one small difference. I have the prestone flush tee installed in one of my heater lines. Using that as a high point, I leave the cap off the tee so that air can escape there. As soon as water starts overflowing that tee, I cap it off. Then use Shran's procedure.

Never had a bubble problem in my 88 F150, 97 F150, 93 Ranger or 2002 Superduty.
 
I do basically what Shran just outlined, with one small difference. I have the prestone flush tee installed in one of my heater lines. Using that as a high point, I leave the cap off the tee so that air can escape there. As soon as water starts overflowing that tee, I cap it off. Then use Shran's procedure.

Never had a bubble problem in my 88 F150, 97 F150, 93 Ranger or 2002 Superduty.
@Curious Hound @Shran @MISWFL Thank you for the tips and help 😁
 
Maybe it was just a fluke but I have had two of those flush tees (that exact one from Prestone) come apart after a few years. They split open and started leaking. I think the concept is good but that is not something I want to fix on the side of the road again... I wonder if anyone makes a metal one?
 
I mean a few minutes at a plumbing supply should get that. A Tee, a plug, and 2 hose barbs, all in 5/8. Thread it together and there ya go.

Soldered together copper would be much lighter. IDK how hard it would be to find 5/8 copper though.
 
I mean a few minutes at a plumbing supply should get that. A Tee, a plug, and 2 hose barbs, all in 5/8. Thread it together and there ya go.

Soldered together copper would be much lighter. IDK how hard it would be to find 5/8 copper though.

See this is why we keep you around. You so smart!
 

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