Has anyone ever used Royal Purple oil?

[LearjetMinako]

To answer the first question, YES, I do run with Royal Purple oils. I've been doing so since 90k miles, and still @ 110k miles. I also do get an oil analysis and results come back good. RP is API approved for street use. The racing blends I do believe are not. The difference between GL-4 & GL-5 is for different metel compands. Use GL-4 for soft metals in transmissions. In diffs, it depends on the l/s. RP gear oil can be used for both GL-4 & GL-5 spefic transmission. Or use the SyncroMax when the transmission requires a motor oil, straight grade, or atf.

Is there benefits? Somewhat, but it is hard to adjust for the cost per quart. I use it mainly because everything that has ran on, runs better now.

Leave MAKG alone, he has his reasons. And I trust his advice to an extent.

My oil intervals.
Oil: 5k
Trans: 25k
Diff: 50k

 

[Bent Bolt]

The small amount of fuel economy gained by using synthetic engine oil is lost by the extra cash spent on the synthetic oil. Nothing will be hurt but won't gain much either.

In cold climates, such as -40, synthetic works and makes sense. But so does plugging in the block heater.

 

[Evan]

Royal Purple is a waste of money. It is no better than any other synthetic.

For those who swear it is, you are a testament to the power of advertising.

 

[paladin]

I use it in the Tranny of my work truck F-350 7.3L Manual, Put it in with the last clutch overhaul. Got about 30K with it in the tranny no problems yet. Had more problems with the two piece flywheel than any thing else.

 

[Kdawg532]

why does everyone always bust on MAKG??? there is a reason he is tech support. even if he comes off as an ass sometimes he knows his shit

 

[Carlos Murphy]

Royal Perp

Don't use their oil yet but I do use Royal Purple "Ice" in my cooling systems, works well.

 

[shadetree]

why does everyone always bust on MAKG??? there is a reason he is tech support. even if he comes off as an ass sometimes he knows his shit

Ah, the young are so easily impressed. shady

 

[almostclueless]

I don't always agree with MAKG, but he's clearly experienced and knowledgeable when it comes to vehicles.

 

[Big Time]

I first put RP in my old Firebird and the difference it made was amazing. The engine ran smoother and quieter with a lot less smoke on startup. She runs much cooler than it she ever did before and now has a steady idle and oil pressure gage, too.

The first batch turned black pretty quick, but that's normal if you use it in an old engine. It worked better than seafoam or anything else I've tried to clean it all out. The fresh RP in her now should last a while. No leaks anywhere, either.

RP is a group 4 true synthetic with uniform molecules, which is more advanced technology that Mobil1, but really not by much. (M1 is a group 3) RP also has a much better balance of cleansing and anti-foaming agents than any other oil I've ever tried. Not too much, not too little.

I agree that Amsoil is a good oil with a bad marketing plan. It's also a group 4 but doesn't have as many cleansing agents and is meant to have a very long change interval.

RP will go 10K easy without needing a change, AmSoil supposedly can go 25K in a new, clean engine. Most people who use group 4's will change their filters every 2-3K miles and just top off the oil until it has 10K on it, then change it. It's actually cheaper in the long run.

I started to put RP in my Ranger recently, but the 3.0 only has 75K, so no dramatic change like in the bird, but I did gain 1 MPG. Ranger engines are pretty stout no matter what you put in them, but it gets hot in the desert and I like the extra protection that a good synthetic provides. I also went with 5-30 instead of 5-20.

Could you get as many miles out of your Ranger with other oil as you could with RP? Probably, but will it be as spotless when it turns 250K? Probably not.

 

[Big Time]

It looks like grape kool-aid, but doesn't taste like it.

 

[Black'03LevelII]

I personally have never tried RP, have had too many people tell me it isn't worth the extra cost. However I do use a full synthetic oil (Catrol Syntec 5-30) four quarts of that and one quart of Lucas oil stablizer. just changed my oil two weekends ago, with about 6k on that round, and the oil was still clear albeit darker than new but still clear.

 

[Simple_serf]

You know, about the only engines I would consider running a synthetic in are engines that run months at a time (I have been around some in the past), and engines that run indoors, and release exhaust indooors, such as propane buffers. Most manufacturers recommend a synthetic on buffers, not entirely sure why, given that the machine is burning Propane, but oh well. Ours has over 5000 hrs on it, which is almost unherard of, So I guess I'll do what the manufacturer says.

I have also been around engines that run non-detergent as well. I run all of my engines with hand poured bearings with non-detergent, several of these run under constant load. Even after several hundered hours I haven't had a problem. Bearing wear is normal. These engines are open crank total waste oiling systems, so expensive oil would be just plain stupid.

Personally, on a Ranger, I wouldn't worry too much about it. My 98 has 193K, all of which has been on conventional oil (I have all of the recipts form the PO for oil changes). Still has good oil pressure. Around here the rest of the vehicle fails before the engine, so it doesn't really matter that much.

 

[Snowplow]

Well, here is my take on the oil thing...

There are times that I will turn my truck on, and for 48 hours straight keep it running short of the few breaks for fuel or the short nap I might take when plowing. When I am plowing a blizzard for 48 hours like I was a few weeks ago, my truck is in 4hi the entire time, with the plow dropped going back and forth all day long.

Now because of all this I recently had my tranny flushed, cleaned, and refilled with RP Max ATF and I can honestly tell you that the truck shifts more firm and it runs on average 10-15'F cooler then it did before. I know this because I have a tuner in my truck with a digital read out and I am ALWAYS looking at my temps when plowing. There is not many things that can be considered higher abuse then plowing, and for that reason, the added cost of a high quality synth fluid is well worth it to me.

In the motor, I run motorcraft 5w40 full synth and have been since new. The tolerances in the 3v triton motors is so tight that the owners manual recommends it and the truck came filled with it so I stuck with the program.

RP might be overkill but I see it as cheep insurance. 10'F could mean the diffrence in a new tranny for someone like me.


And yes, I know my clutches will still go with all the F to R, F to R all day long but thats just part of the business.

 

[Mutant Pony]

Ah, the young are so easily impressed. shady

 

[LearjetMinako]

Glad some of us use the RP and like it. Cost isn't too much since now I drive the motorcycle more often. Usually a case of RP will last me 1-2 years. What use to take me 5-6 months to drive 5k miles, now takes almost a year to do. But now my Kawi sees 2-5k miles a year, and yes, it runs RP MaxCycle 10w-40.