frame rot


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tiredmec

Forum Member

Joined
Oct 9, 2026
Messages
20
Points
101
City
Muscatine
State - Country
IA- USA
Other
2012 f150 3.5 eco
Vehicle Year
2001
Vehicle
Ford Ranger
Drive
4WD
Engine
4.0L
Transmission
Automatic
I didn't see any talk of fish plaiting frame in week spots. So here I go. In front of rear springs both sides have a very advanced rust jacking and worse. Thinking on removing spring hanger and hang a plate inner and outer. Have to remove the bloom of old frame and weld in patch. Just think adding support would make me feal better. Here is some pictures have removed some surface rust. Going to sand blast with my old harbor freight pot blaster. Any thoughts.
PS. When I worked on big trucks the fish plated frames were subject to inner steel departing from rust.
Just want to add plate will be 1/8 thick same as [oe] frame dont think it will mess up springs. Thinking 6 inches each side of spring hangers width. As I said before thoughts experance with this.
I added pics and spell checked.
 

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*Check the bushings in the springs, there is a good chance they are shot as well.
 
Frame rot and repair is a common thing unfortunately. I’ve sectioned and plated a few frames now. 1/8” is about right.

There are some companies that make repair sections like Safe-T-Cap and such.
 
I have some frame rust, not any noticeable rot. I'll be taking the bed off my 93 Ranger again and doing it up with wire brushing and an undercoating shortly, I did a quick primer on the chassis when the bed was off previously. Im gonna need to replace the rotted shackle hangar in pic below.

I had the bed off two months ago when I redid all my fuel lines so all the bed bolts and hardware are new (link below). It will be a lot easier removing the bed now to do the undercoating.

Good luck on your repair, take some pics afterwards. Question, Will u be doing any frame undercoating, rust restore etc. once your done w the repairs?

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One thing to keep in mind about undercoatings is that the tarry stuff and the rubberized stuff are garbage. Once rust gets started with that stuff, it will grow like wildfire under it.

The rust inhibitor paints/coatings and generally paints are good. Then top with something grease/oil/woolwax (fluid film is a common choice). Or just skip paint and use one of those style of undercoating.
 
One thing to keep in mind about undercoatings is that the tarry stuff and the rubberized stuff are garbage. Once rust gets started with that stuff, it will grow like wildfire under it.

The rust inhibitor paints/coatings and generally paints are good. Then top with something grease/oil/woolwax (fluid film is a common choice). Or just skip paint and use one of those style of undercoating.
Thanks for that, I have been using a rust converter on my Jeep. It's great stuff and covers nicely. Is this any good.

frame rot
 
It fought the whole way. Took me 12 hours today. Got done and was looking at it dam broken spring. So next spring will change it out. Going with spring hangers and all. The bushings are all stuck bolts wont move. It took me a long time to get back on. Had to hold spring way up in the air then pin punch it. I added a plate to the rear hanger so they matched. I should have bought stock in cutoff wheels lol
 

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I don't know if Iowa paint still makes acid base primer. Was called vinyl base primer you would spray it on walk inside. Go back out gone. Had a truck burn up. Primer was still there.
 
It fought the whole way. Took me 12 hours today. Got done and was looking at it dam broken spring. So next spring will change it out. Going with spring hangers and all. The bushings are all stuck bolts wont move. It took me a long time to get back on. Had to hold spring way up in the air then pin punch it. I added a plate to the rear hanger so they matched. I should have bought stock in cutoff wheels lol
Did you use and electric grinder or pneumatic grinder to take off the shackle hangar. Also did you support the shackle with Jack etc?, and if so what method did you use, be detailed if u can on supporting the shackle, I have to do this job very very soon also.
 
I used air tools. Cut across the head of rivets 4x each one. Then air hammer made short work of them. Used a needle scalier to get rid of rust blooms. Ended cutting 4 1/4 patch hole filled it with 1/4 plate. Ended up drilling the rivets to get the backs off. That rust in between rails came out hard. Needle scalier didn't touch it. Had to use a cutoff wheel on die grinder in between frame rails. Cloud of rust. All air tools except drill. Glad I bought ear protection. Between tools and bfh wow. May need to change name to Don dirt.
As far as jacking it up. Take the rear hanger loose first after you take weight off of the springs. Take u bolts off and take shocks loose. If its like mine will still have pressure on hanger. So don't let it bite ya. Never trust springs. Had to raise it up quite a ways to get it off spring perch. Use 4 jack stands better safe than trust harbor freight jack stands. One stand at rear cab mount. Another at rear bumper. To hold spring from sitting on axle. Have to raise it quite a ways up. 3 ton floor jack came up short but mine is a off road model.
 

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