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Electrical Help req'd


Alright so wired the alt differently this wknd as stated by sparyk2eh had mentioned for a 3wire gm alt. Soo i now have the power straight to batt positive, jumperd from terminal #2 to alt power and terminal #1 going to green with red stripe oem cable. (batt indicator light). I have a charge of 13.3v on the batt when engine is running so pretty sure the internal regulator is working. Im gunna wire terminal#2 straight to the batt positive next wknd bc i think the voltage drop is causing it to be 13v and not 14.

Ok but i still have a draw from the battery when its not running! Also when running by batt indicator light is on in the cab but alt is charging.. Does this come on if its below 14v and rewiring the terminal #2 will fix it or is it bc i just spliced into the oem wiring. I went to the green w red stripe wire and it goes through the oem connector through the indicator and to the oem regulator, is that right? Should i be putting that wire directly from alt to batt light indictor an bypass the ranger regulator altogether?

And any other thoughts on the draw? Cant obtain a ammeter for dc so if i cant get this sorted by next wknd think im gunna have to take it to ze shop..

Thanks again to everyone for the imput.
 
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Ditch all the stock wiring, except the wire to the dash "Alt" light. Do not need the stock voltage regulator the alternator has one in it.
Standard Alternator charging voltage is 13.5-14.5vdc depending on condition of the battery, as in how charged up it is, I have no idea what you would see with the stock regulator and the GM one together.
Battery positive to the large terminal, #2 small terminal jumpered to the large terminal and #1 terminal fed from the ignition switch thru the "ALT" light....that is all the wiring you need.... alternator output comes from the large terminal to the battery to the rest of the truck.
The dash light comes on if alternator voltage is lower than battery voltage.
:icon_thumby:

ps
You can use the stock(OEM) large black/orange striped wire as the battery positive connection if you want, it has a fusible link in it to protect the alternator and wiring. The stock light green/red striped wire, that use to go to the stock alternator, should be the one for small terminal #1.
 
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Ok so tried some more buggering about with this alt this weekend. Tied terminal #2 directly to battery positive post and main power to post. Terminal #1 Im still using the green w red stripe wire which goes to the batt light. Upon start up massive whine from alternator, and still charging around 13.3v. Sooo no change, but as soon as i take off the wire from terminal #2 whine goes away but battery isnt being chaged. Alt gets very very hot when terminal #2 is hooked to positive. And any time I have the terminal #1 wire hooked up the batt light is on.. Really getting annoyed with this thing.

Im gunna take it to a shop and see if the alt is just no good. But if thats the case I really want to go back to an oem Ranger alternator. Given the serpentine setup i have now I believe I need an older generation ranger alt though (like89'), which has the bolt holes at top and bottom correct? My 94' alt had the 3 long bolts going through the casing bracket and into the wp I believe and doesnt look like it would work on the march serp kit I bought. If I change to the alt to the old ranger one and now that all the wires are cut off from the connector how would I go about hooking it up and would it matter being a 89' alt and a 94' ranger wiring??
 
Ok so think im making progress..

Used my multimeter on dc amps and with the second power wire hooked up to terminal 2 of the alt it was reading about 4amps. switched to yellow w white stripe cable and it went down to 0.01 amps.

Now looking in the engone bay fuse box i noticed fuse #15 was toast. Replaced it with a 15a mini. What is this fuse? In the haynes manual chassis electric system it has it listed as simply 15a alt..No label on the mini's in that fuse box! And theres more than 1 15a.

Started pulling other fuses and when i pulled #2 large 40a fuse the amp draw went to 0.00. With that out i have no dome light and possibly other things. Can anyone tell me what these fuses are and if this could be a problem??
 
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Now i just looked and after about 30min my batt went from 12.4-12.10 sooo still got a draw. Figured may aswell start it and see what happens lol. Fired up, took all wires off alt because leaving them on creates a massive whine. After revving for about ten min i turned it off. Went back to fuse box and that mini 15a is blown again.... Hmmm any thoughts?
 

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