E-fan Swap Question 1993 3.0 4x4 Splash

[Coop7]

Hmmmm... I don't think I have the A/C relay wired properly.

 

[Coop7]

Tying in the +12V to a ground through a relay is going to activate the A/C circuit wont it?

 

[Coop7]

So instead if I were to tie 85 into a +12V that would allow it to complete the circuit through the A/C system as it kicks on, right? Instead of just grounding it out through the relay as I have drawn.

 

[Coop7]

Like this instead, right?

 

[RonD]

NO, on the above


Previous one looks fine to me

AC 12v activates relay and grounds the low speed relay, like the temp switch would

I would put a noticeable RED LED on the on/off switch that comes on when switch is OFF, so you don't forget to turn it back on
Just use a double pole switch so it turns on LED when Fan 12v is off
Key on 12v on center pin, out to fan on one end, out to LED on the other end

The 12ga wire is over kill, 18ga is fine for the relay coil wiring, but if you have 12ga then use it

 

[Coop7]

NO, on the above


Previous one looks fine to me

AC 12v activates relay and grounds the low speed relay, like the temp switch would

I would put a noticeable RED LED on the on/off switch that comes on when switch is OFF, so you don't forget to turn it back on
Just use a double pole switch so it turns on LED when Fan 12v is off
Key on 12v on center pin, out to fan on one end, out to LED on the other end

The 12ga wire is over kill, 18ga is fine for the relay coil wiring, but if you have 12ga then use it

Roger. My concern was that connecting the +12V to a ground through the relay would short out the circuit, no? Unless the circuit operates by connecting to +12V on the A/C side already... I'm not sure though, I need to check the schematics to see exactly what power flow is where I'm tying in. The ones I have in my Haynes should be good enough, but I think they leave something to be desired. Could just be my own inexperience though. Haha

Hmm... I like that idea. I didn't think of that when I was buying the toggle, so I'll have to wire that up in addition to as it sits. Maybe tie in an additional LED that's on when switch is on and off when it isn't? That or buy another switch. I also prefer the "light on with switch off" method, but I planned poorly in that regard.

Oh for sure. I also have 16ga, but it's all green. I intended to only use it for the temp switch lines so I skimped a bit on that to save some money. So I *can* use 16ga, but I like to be sure of pos vs neg at a glance, so I might stick with overkill unfortunately.

 

[RonD]

A short is when you connect 12v directly to a ground
If there is a "load" between the 12v and ground then no short, relays coil is a "load"

i.e. a 12v light bulb, 12v---thin wire---ground, not a short because thin wire is a "load" not much of one but a load none the less

A "load" is resistance to current flow, so a flow limiter

A 12v wire connected directly to ground has no "limiter" so all available current can flow until a wire melts and separates, lol, a bad short

 

[Coop7]

A short is when you connect 12v directly to a ground
If there is a "load" between the 12v and ground then no short, relays coil is a "load"

i.e. a 12v light bulb, 12v---thin wire---ground, not a short because thin wire is a "load" not much of one but a load none the less

A "load" is resistance to current flow, so a flow limiter

A 12v wire connected directly to ground has no "limiter" so all available current can flow until a wire melts and separates, lol, a bad short

Ahhhh. I see. Good to know! I'm still learning, for sure. Haha

 

[Coop7]

Remounted the fan after struggling trying to build a fan shroud. This turned out to be easier. I also think making a fan shroud for it as it is now will be easier than as it was if I need to, but I doubt it. It sits VERY close to the radiator now.

 

[Coop7]

I ran into a bit of a snag earlier in the week. As you can see, the retaining clip is missing on the front. I didn't realize it until I hooked the fan up for a test and heard a nice grumbling grinding sound instead of the whir of the fan blades. Contacted Summit and they had a replacement sent to me in less than three days. I just finished reinstalling the new fan a little while ago. Works great!

 

[Coop7]

This is how it's currently mounted.

 

[Coop7]

Fan cut off switch mounted and installed. Used that bracket I found at Lowe's and a metal drill bit to fit the switch. Had an old switch cover laying around that I popped on there for safety. Not as good as a three prong LED switch, but it will work, I think. Location is out of the way, and while I was worried I might accidentally kick it or it may be in the way, I have found that it is VERY hard for me to actually kick it. Lol Will probably secure the leads a bit better with some more zip ties later.

 

[Coop7]

Under hood fuse box is a bit of a rats nest right now. Tied in to a few wires here and there for power or other things as needed. Also used the two free slots for my fan relays. As of now I'm trying to figure out a way to run the fan off of my A/C WOT relay without a third relay as I don't really have room for it, though I will probably eventually end up going with RonD's suggestion as we discussed earlier. I've got a 40 amp breaker mounted behind the battery for the fans, and a 150amp breaker for the new alternator mounted underneath the fuse box.

 

[Coop7]

Had to pull the temp switch off as it was leaking when I tested it. Turns out I'm an idiot and ordered a 3/8" BSP adapter, and not a 3/8" NPT adapter... Destroyed the threads in the aluminum pipe, (cause if it leaks, I tighten... Bad call in this case...) and now I'm waiting for the PROPER adapter and a new inline mount.

 

[Coop7]

Also think it might be worthwhile to mention that all the tie ins I did to existing wiring in the fuse box are completely reversible as I tried to show in some of the pics. In case I effed something up, I wanted it to be a relatively easy fix. Makes it a bit messy, but once it's all stuffed back in the case it should be nice and secure.