Driveline issues and ring and pinion kit?

[vonD1025]

So I’m injured and can only do so much, so I had an inspection done at a driveline shop. I’m pretty sure these guys were stoned because it was 4/20. I’m almost sure they left it in neutral and tried to tell me there was to much play in in my rear driveline, moving it side to side and sliding it forward and back.

I parked it at home in first and took a look and tried to move stuff to see what they were doing and it barely had any play in for me. I did the same thing and I feel like it was a mistake on their part. They want to charge me 600$ for a newly fabricated complete driveline.

I believe that I need to have my u joints redone on the front portion to clear up the vibration I get around 55-65 mph. It really only happens when I put my foot on the pedal. I have a brand new set of tires that are balanced and good alignment.

I’d like to pull apart the rear axle and redo the ring and pinion kit I believe? Hopefully it’s just the seal it getting old and because I clean the under carriage pretty well that it’s leaking so good. Just in case there’s any damage. List of what the shop wants to do is attached..

Thoughts ?

 

[RobbieD]

I'm not real experienced with drivelines, but I am surprised that you still have a CV driveshaft. I think it'd be a good start to make sure that the driveshaft is OK, and that both CV joints are well lubed.

When I dealt with the same type driveshaft on a '90 Bronco II 2WD several years back, replacement hard parts were impossible to find, and just the rubber boots to repack what I had were a booger to find. Ended up having a driveshaft made with regular u-joints.

Hopefully some better minds will weigh in, and good luck.

 

[dvdswan]

I could be wrong, but I think you could get a custom driveline from Woody's shipped to you for half that price.

Custom Drive Shaft Shop | Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts

Trail Tested, Competition Proven, Show Quality Driveshafts and Slip Yoke Eliminators for Jeep Wranglers, Cherokees, Ford Broncos and more.

4xshaft.com

 

[Shran]

Oh jeez... you have a CV shaft. I forgot those stupid things existed. You can get a conversion shaft with normal u-joints from RockAuto for under $300, measure first to see if the length is correct but that's the way I'd go... that's almost certainly at least part of the problem.

You can rebuild your axle if you want... new bearings and seals are probably all that's needed, you do not need a new ring/pinion/carrier unless they show signs of damage or wear. You could just replace that seal but you run the risk of changing the bearing preload in the process when you tighten the nut back down, which may wipe out an old set of bearings, then you're doing it all over again.

If you have a good independent 4x4 shop around, that's the best place to have gears done. I would have them do it unless you're comfortable setting up gears... the guy who does mine charges about $350 per axle plus parts.

 

[vonD1025]

Almost forgot the joint pics

 

[vonD1025]

I think that cv driveshaft is still fine. If I can get away with saving it and just maybe re-grease it?? Just old pinion seal and that vibration from the front between 55-65 is coming from those u joints..

I just took it from Carson City, Nevada to Northern California about an hour outside of Orick. Nice beautiful little hidden town in the Six Rivers National Forest called Orleans. Then through the Redwoods to Monterey and back home to Nevada. It did amazing and I had no issues with my 4 wheel drive off-road. Hell I even pulled out some brand new Toyota Highlander, that was an all time 4x4 from the sand dunes at the ocean.

I know I need new leaf springs, they are flat and starting to separate. Leaf spring shackles need new bushings as well. But I’m thinking all of that is a contributing factor to this. I’ve really got to try and do as much as possible my self with little to no money right now. If the parts are good I’m tryin not to buy anything I can’t afford..