daily doubler build

[bradz71]

If you ever get the chance, I'd love to take some dimensions off your doubler shaft.

I saw some pictures from the bog last weekend. It looked decent, but I'm starting to get tired of mud again. It's so anti-climactic.

You need to go wheeling first before you can get tired of mud!!

J/K--hey I'm cutting up my BII on my birthday today!

 

[Bray D]

If you ever get the chance, I'd love to take some dimensions off your doubler shaft.

I saw some pictures from the bog last weekend. It looked decent, but I'm starting to get tired of mud again. It's so anti-climactic.

EDIT: one more thing, if you get a chance, can you take one additional measurement for me? I'm wanting to know the distance from the center of the spring to the frame rail... Thanks!

Yeah, mudding in itself isn't too awefully exciting, especially since I just get stuck all the time . The bogs are fun though, everyone participating makes for a good environment.

I've got a laptop coming in the mail, and plan to get my hands on a copy of Pro E. I plan to pull the shaft, get dimensions, and model it just in case. Probably late spring/early summer but I'll have it apart again to inspect the internals. Dimensions will be taken at that time.

The center of what spring

EDIT: HAPPY BIRTHDAY BRAD!

 

[JohnnyU]

The center of the spring (the bolt hole for the retainer bolt) on those Ballistic upper spring mounts. I'm thinking that might be what I need to upgrade to in order to use a longer free-length spring. I just don't want to push it out away from the frame any farther than it is now so I wont have to change the lower mounts.


I've hated mud for a long time Brad, you know this. There's just too much trash talking with our "group" lately. Know what I mean?

I have a copy of Pro/E if you want it....

 

[Bray D]

Can do my man. I'll go measure it now. The parts are "keyed" for allignment during assembly of the spring tower. I haven't welded em up yet. I'm going to measure my lower pad width (pad to pad), then weld up the brackets accordingly.

I'll get ahold of you when my computer comes in...be back in a few

 

[Bray D]

This just in...

The pencil is for balancing purposes. They're damn near right on 5 1/8" from the center of the hole to the edge of the plate that mounts to the frame. It looks a little off due to the hole not being in the center of the picture (see aligning tabs at the top, they were aligned perfectly for the pic).

 

[JohnnyU]

Thank you very much Sir. Looks like about 2" larger offset than what I'm using now. Right now, the frame is tangent to the 6" tube used for the coil bucket. So 3" radial offset. Back to the drawing board....

I'll quit whoring up your thread now.

 

[Bray D]

Lucas Iron hooked me up with the rectangle tube that will be my radius arm crossmember, CHEAP too. Good stuff. Still having a hard time finding DOM. I my have to bite the bullet and get it from Hagerty.

I'm also having a hard time finding someone to ream my pitman arm. I think I went to every machine shop in central Illinois today. Bradley ME shop has one, but it's not for high speed use; meaning Dave won't let me put it in a drill press. I'm not going to try and do it by hand. My uncle works at Keystone, I'm going to give him a call to see if their machine shop has the reamer I need on hand. If so I'll drop it off to him and he can do it over his lunch or something. If all else fails I'll just buy the damn reamer and do it myself.

 

[JohnnyU]

Call and talk to Joy at J.H. Benedict Co. in East Peoria. They are great people, did a LOT of work for use on the FSAE car, as well as other Bradley projects. Chad Miars (Co-owner) is an ME grad from BU, and Bob Jones (another co-owner)'s son is a Bradley student as well. Not sure what they'll charge you, but I bet they have the tooling.

I don't see why he wouldn't let you slow the drill press down or use the Bridgeport.

 

[Bray D]

Thanks for the info, I'll see what they have to say if my uncle can't do it.

I can't remember the exact wording but it said right on the package that it was a "clean up" reamer and wasn't for high speed use. He suggested clamping it up in the press, locating center, drilling initial hole, then putting the reamer in there, attach a spring 'point' that would keep force on the reamer, then turning it by hand.

 

[JohnnyU]

Woah, fawk that. Dave's quite "conservative" with the machines, but that's a bit over the top.

 

[Bray D]

Yeah, kinda my thoughts.

 

[Bray D]

Another update:

Bit the bullet and got the DOM from Hagerty. I think prices dropped a bit cause I got it for ~13 bucks a foot versus the $16 I got quoted for a month or so ago. Said it'll be ready for pickup in the morning.

My dutchman shafts came in to, so that'll be first on the list. Get the rear knocked out tomorrow then start tearing into the front.

I realized after my TREs came in that I didn't specify I needed the hole in the pass. side TRE reamed for under the knuckle application. I called PartsMike and talked to Morris. He said he'll get one reamed for bottom up, and have it shipped out today. I should see it monday. All I've gotta do is pay for shipping to ship the other one back. Don't even have to pay to get the new on shipped. Kick ass customer service if you ask me. Oh and for the record I'm running BRANIK arms, tapered from the bottom up so that's why PM didn't catch it.

I picked up a $20 Autozone pass side TRE for mockup until the new one gets here, then I'll take the AZ TRE back for a full refund

 

[JohnnyU]

Hagerty charge you a cutting fee? What did you end up buying?

 

[Bray D]

I'm sure they did. I just got what I needed to extend my arms, so 8ft. I'm pretty sure he said $107. I'll let ya know for sure tomorrow when I go to pick it up.

 

[JohnnyU]

That's not too bad really. I still want to find some c-channel and 2"x2"... I know 14th is out of the square, but they had some 4" c-channel.

So you're starting on this tomorrow night, huh?