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Bronco 2 Starter Grinding


As long as the next size larger fits....
I like thread repair especially in aluminum as now the torque/pressure is steel on steel, similar to using a stud. I haven't done a lot of thread repair so can't comment on durability issues but if ford fixes their sparkplug holes with it then it should hold elsewhere with no problems.

Richard
 
Well either way I have to tap the threads even to do a thread repair kit from what I can find information about. I just don't want to end up screwing this thing up and not being able to use the vehicle at all. Right now I can start it, but for how long with just the one bolt tight before it breaks free.
 
What set do I need, and where do I find one? I haven't got a repair kit yet, been kind of trying to find out my best option. Right now the bolt size is the factory 3/8-16 x 1-7/8".
 
A tap and die set will always come with a tap adapter. These can be driven with a ratchet. They tighten around the tap and then have a square hole your ratchet or extension will go in to drive them. Remember, use lubricant, every full turn, go 1/4 turn back to remove the chips, then proceed.


I hate to use an Erastwood pic . . but you see two adapters in the picture. . . . . just in case you didn't know what I was talking about.
http://www.eastwood.com/gearwrench-3880-tap-die-ratchet-5pc-drive-tool.html
 
Crap, guess I'll have to figure something out because my grandfather's 40+ year old craftsman tap/die set doesn't have those adapters. I guess I will look around. Thanks.
 
This old set doesn't have any figures, if I didn't have bad luck I wouldn't have any at all. Looks like another week or 2 of driving my truck while the B2 sits in the driveway un-driveable once again. The one day off from work thing is getting really old, and that day being Sundays I can't get a damn thing done thanks to every place I need to go being closed LOL. Oh well, some day maybe.
 
Weird that's similar to my grandfather's set, missing that adapter though, well my grandfather's set didn't come with one to begin with. Bidding on it. Thanks. May just see about using a socket and ratchet to get this done, kind of pointless having a vehicle if I can't drive it.
 
You could also use an 8-point socket that fit the tap. They are special too, don't find those everywhere.
 
Well of course not LOL. Going to try to figure something out. Was going to work on it today, but had a rain storm so didn't get a chance. I'll try again tomorrow, maybe I can find something in the ole tool box that will work.
 
Oh crap

Had the same issue with an 85 bronco ii. The starter is not made for the older model broncos. They fit the rangers fine but for some reason the gear on the starter dosnt fully reach the flywheel and gradually grinds the crap out of it. And burns out the starter. Go pull an original starter from a junker and buy the rebuild kit from lmc . This is cheaper and easyier and will last longer. Don't use the shims they tend to cause slipping and move or fall out after a little time from the vibrations that the 2.9 in known for.
 
The starter is not made for the older model broncos. They fit the rangers fine but for some reason the gear on the starter dosnt fully reach the flywheel and gradually grinds the crap out of it. And burns out the starter

What?? you serious with this fable??
 
I finally had to just run my B2 to a local shop as the lower starter bolt mounting hole threads were stripped and I couldn't get my drill into the limited space to drill it out and re-thread it. Well the guy at the shop had a nice right angle drill and just drilled a hole all the way through and put a bolt and lock nut/washer on it. Much better now I just need to do a bit of shimming to take care of the grinding that it does. Other than that my B2 is back on the road as a daily driver once again.

Next issue on the table is the rear main seal mess, really don't want to try and tackle this one since it requires pulling the transmission, clutch and flywheel. Especially not having a shop to work in and only a gravel driveway.
 

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