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been having rear end problems finally tore it apart


I think you still have a transmission that has bit the dust.

Or transfercase.
But you said it would just turn and not go? Have you found something else wrong taking it a part? The clutch packs would still have let the truck move regardless if they were broke or not. You just wouldn't have a locking rearend. Get the rear back together and let us know what you find.
 
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Or transfercase.
But you said it would just turn and not go? Have you found something else wrong taking it a part? The clutch packs would still have let the truck move regardless if they were broke or not. You just wouldn't have a locking rearend. Get the rear back together and let us know what you find.

waiting on the new clutch packs then its re assembly it goes i still just dont understand all this...driveshaft spins when in gear...but not spin tires (when on ground...if jacked up it will spin the drivers tire only...spin pinion yoke by hand (with driveshaft and tranny in neutral or without the driveshaft at all) and it spins everything in the rear fine damn trucks can be so complicated lol but lets just get this beast back on the trails (and road for that fact lol)
 
waiting on the new clutch packs then its re assembly it goes i still just dont understand all this...driveshaft spins when in gear...but not spin tires (when on ground...if jacked up it will spin the drivers tire only...spin pinion yoke by hand (with driveshaft and tranny in neutral or without the driveshaft at all) and it spins everything in the rear fine damn trucks can be so complicated lol but lets just get this beast back on the trails (and road for that fact lol)

The truck isn't complicated.

Ford used two different types of differentials in Rangers, one was called an "open diff" and the other is a "posi-trac" (very loosely called a locking diff, although technically it ISN'T) which Ford calls TracLoc, which is what you have, positively identified by the clutch and frictions plates you have in those pictures.

The important part i'm trying to help you understand here is the difference between diffs and that one has friction and clutch plates, which is the TracLoc that you have, and the other does not. BOTH diffs will turn wheels. Period. End of story. (get the point? broken plate ears or not, even if those plates weren't there at all the truck will still move ..... and plenty more than 3 mph)

The problem you are having is almost assuredly not with the diff. Yes, it is obviously broken to **** and you should be spending the money to fix it, but it's not what's causing your truck to only drive 3 mph.

Do some research on why people call Explorers "Exploders" and you'll be taking a step in the right direction.

Sorry for your luck. :sad:
 
The truck isn't complicated.

Ford used two different types of differentials in Rangers, one was called an "open diff" and the other is a "posi-trac" (very loosely called a locking diff, although technically it ISN'T) which Ford calls TracLoc, which is what you have, positively identified by the clutch and frictions plates you have in those pictures.

The important part i'm trying to help you understand here is the difference between diffs and that one has friction and clutch plates, which is the TracLoc that you have, and the other does not. BOTH diffs will turn wheels. Period. End of story. (get the point? broken plate ears or not, even if those plates weren't there at all the truck will still move ..... and plenty more than 3 mph)

The problem you are having is almost assuredly not with the diff. Yes, it is obviously broken to **** and you should be spending the money to fix it, but it's not what's causing your truck to only drive 3 mph.

Do some research on why people call Explorers "Exploders" and you'll be taking a step in the right direction.

Sorry for your luck. :sad:

yes i understand the difference in the ford trac lock and an open carrier differential.... thats pretty simple what i dont understand (which obviously im not relaying this message across) is why does everything tranny and transfer case related seem to work and spin fine and the rear end everything seems fine (besides the broken plates) but yet doesnt work how its supposed to so can someone please understand this and possibly try explaining that to me more and sorry but by a simple visual check...all driveshafts wpin when in gear... and speed up and slow down just LIKE NORMAL and with the rear end not attached via driveshaft it all spins and works JUST LIKE NORMAL.... is it such a problme for a guy that wants his truck fixed but may need some help understanding it without having things explained that he already knew...im not trying to sound like a total d*ck...but somewhere along the posts ppl have missunderstood what i was confused about i appreciate the help but if something isnt understood ask so it can be re explained where the guy is confused...thanks
 
yes i understand the difference in the ford trac lock and an open carrier differential.... thats pretty simple what i dont understand (which obviously im not relaying this message across) is why does everything tranny and transfer case related seem to work and spin fine and the rear end everything seems fine (besides the broken plates) but yet doesnt work how its supposed to so can someone please understand this and possibly try explaining that to me more and sorry but by a simple visual check...all driveshafts wpin when in gear... and speed up and slow down just LIKE NORMAL and with the rear end not attached via driveshaft it all spins and works JUST LIKE NORMAL.... is it such a problme for a guy that wants his truck fixed but may need some help understanding it without having things explained that he already knew...im not trying to sound like a total d*ck...but somewhere along the posts ppl have missunderstood what i was confused about i appreciate the help but if something isnt understood ask so it can be re explained where the guy is confused...thanks

Okay, not to sound like a jack***, but without things like punctuation and grammar it's a little hard to understand you at times. This can easily contribute to people not understanding you. So now that I DO "get it" .....

Two words - torque and weight.

When you have the truck up on stands there is little weight working against the transmission and transfer case. The transmission internals, like clutch and friction plates and bands, as well as shift and pressure solenoids within the valve body, have little work to do. They can easily spin a measely 15-pound (or so) driveshaft.

Put the truck on the ground and you have over 3500 pounds of weight to move. If something is ****ed up in the trans then that is when you are gonna see it. The extra resistance against the transmission internals might be able to handle a light load, but not the full weight of the truck.


NOW, with that being said I re-read what you typed in another post (sorry, but it was easy to miss this point) and you said that the driveshaft will spin if the truck is in gear and the tires are on the ground. Did I read that correct?
 
just to throw something in with what slim just posted, inside your trans are similar clutches and plates as are in your L/S diff and I would imagine that they currently look the same as far as condition.

with a weak L/S it will do the same thing, when you jack it up off the ground both tires will spin like they should(most open diffs will do the same when in the air) but when you have it on the ground it becomes an open diff.
 
okay I also missed the part where you said that when on the ground the driveshaft spins but the wheels do not. being that your rebuilding the L/S I would expect that you would have noticed if a axle were busted so skip that, are the splines on the axles in good shape? how about the spider gears? is the pinion stripped(where the driveshaft flange bolts to the pinion)? are the ring and pinion gears in good shape?. that's what I can think of as far as rearend problems you may have. If I come up with anything else Ill post it. make sure you let us know what it turns out to be cuz like many I am curious.
 
well would those plates being how they are cause my truck to barely move like it did at the high rpms? i just wanna make sure this is my whole problem versus replace it and then put it back on (since the axle is dropped from teh truck then have to redo it all over again...do u know a place that i can get replacement plates? cuz through ford its like 175 dollars and i know if an aftermarket place makes/sells them it will be so mch cheaper...and what weight gear oil should i use and since i have an LS should i go synthetic or not...and yes i know i need the additive too lol

Trash TRAC_LOK and insert detroit:icon_thumby:
 
and im going to appologize if i sounded like a total a** myself...its just very frustrating...and yes all (front and rear? driveshafts will spin with the transmission in gear. weither the weight of the vehicle is on the ground or it is jacked up (and i do know that my front hubs arent locking correctly which would cause my no pull from the front)
 
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okay I also missed the part where you said that when on the ground the driveshaft spins but the wheels do not. being that your rebuilding the L/S I would expect that you would have noticed if a axle were busted so skip that, are the splines on the axles in good shape? how about the spider gears? is the pinion stripped(where the driveshaft flange bolts to the pinion)? are the ring and pinion gears in good shape?. that's what I can think of as far as rearend problems you may have. If I come up with anything else Ill post it. make sure you let us know what it turns out to be cuz like many I am curious.

yes it may be my first time tearing open a differential, But i sure would notice a broken axle shaft. As for the pinion, i checked the teeth (or splines whatever u would like to call them) and due to never seeing a new or very good set, i cant tell you if they are good or not...but what i do know is when i pulled it out or the rear diff... and basically re assembled the pinion and pinion yoke, all the teeth(splines) caught and seemed to mesh together fine. Now onto the side gears, once again i did the same thing with them and the axle shafts... now the axle shaft teeth (or splines) seem wore out but are still there maybe they are maybe they arent...but enough that i visually wondered about (but once again without ever seeing a new or still really good one for sure i cant tell you how the condition they are in). but i know the amount of pressure i can hand twist the side gear and the axle shaft they lock tight and mesh together well (and yes i understand the pressure of me...and a tranny with ALOT more vehicle weight can apply more force than my hands lol) maybe someone could help me a bit and maybe post some pics of what the teeth(splines) are supposed to look like via depth. and now onto the ring and pinion itself... i took the time to reinstal the carrier and ring gear (without the clutch plates and spider gears) and the mesh of the ring and pinion teeth look perfect (comparing to the contact chart i believe i found on here) but back to the fact everyone seemed to miss...so with my driveshafts turning in gear..and speeding up slowing down with my rpm changes...is anyone still thinking tranny problems?
 
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and once again i'd like to apologize if i sounded like a total d*ck i appreciate the help, even if my grammer and punctuation is slacking a bit! thanks for the help guys!
 
well i went ahead and got new spider gears...found a cheap deal on slightly used ones with 2 sets of friction and drive plates (so i can do the 4 friston and 3 drive plate per side setup) cheaper than i found just the plates alone so that helps eliminates one possible problem....
 

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